Wyoming’s Hot Spot

Cool museums, steaming thermal springs, and ties to history make Thermopolis a must-see stop.
By Bernadine F. Wells
May 2004
If you long to experience the “real” Old West, go back in time to explore dinosaurs and petroglyphs, soak in steaming thermal waters, or just enjoy beautiful scenery and old-fashioned hospitality, Thermopolis, Wyoming, is the perfect destination. We discovered this small Western town while on our way to Yellowstone and Grand Teton national parks, and immediately fell in love with it.
The winding highway into Thermopolis from the town of Shoshoni “” U.S. 20 “” leads through Wind River Canyon and is by far one of the most scenic drives in the United States. You, too, will become enamored with this area and its peaceful atmosphere, azure blue skies, and unpolluted air.
Thermopolis has an altitude higher than its population (elevation: 4,560 feet; population: approximately 3,200). The town derives its name from the Greek words for “hot city.” The heat is not from the climate, but from the many hot springs located in Hot Springs State Park, a short distance from downtown Thermopolis.
The springs at the park release more than a million gallons of hot mineral water daily. Many believe these waters are therapeutic, able to alleviate a host of ailments, including arthritis. The water is 127 to 135 degrees Fahrenheit when it reaches the surface. From there it flows into cooling ponds that make it a more agreeable temperature to humans. It has a distinctive sulfur scent, but that doesn’t stop people from taking advantage of its warm, relaxing benefits. A boardwalk has been built throughout the park over and around natural, rainbow-hued terraces that have been formed by the flow of steaming water. The beauty of the area overshadows the odor that emanates from the gurgling pools.
The State Bath House, which is located in the park, fulfills a treaty requirement the United States made with the Shoshone and Arapaho Indian tribes more than a century ago. The treaty granted the public use of the hot mineral waters. The bathhouse offers private bathtubs and a central, tiled, shallow soaking pool. Soap and shampoo are not permitted, however, because the bathhouse is not a place to wash but rather a spot to soak. Visitors can relax in the springs for 20 minutes at no charge. (Attendants make certain people don’t stay in the water too long.) During the summer, an outdoor soaking pool provides an additional watery venue, one in which to enjoy the fresh air and scenery.
The bathhouse is situated in between two commercial establishments. One of them is a popular spot called the Star Plunge. It includes exciting water slides, indoor and outdoor pools, two hot pools, whirlpool tubs, and many other attractions. The Star Plunge was built in 1900 and has been enjoyed by such famed characters as Buffalo Bill Cody, Butch Cassidy and his “Hole in the Wall” gang, and actors Marlon Brando and Robert Redford.
The TePee Spa is the other popular facility, offering pools, water slides, hot tubs, and steam rooms; it has undergone major improvements in the last few years.
Hot Springs State Park is also home to a herd of bison. The animals roam throughout a fenced-in area that encompasses several thousand acres, courtesy of the state of Wyoming.
Approximately 1.5 miles north of Thermopolis, the Fountain of Youth RV Park boasts a hot mineral pool that is reputed to be the third-largest in the world. The pool is fed by the Sacajawea Well, named for the young Indian woman who led Lewis and Clark on their exploration trip through the Rocky Mountains in the 1800s. Excellent overnight camping facilities are available at the park.
South of Thermopolis via U.S. 20 is the spectacular Wind River Canyon. The rushing Wind River has carved a channel that is 2,500 feet deep and 14 miles long. The river was named by the Indians for the restless wind that is ever present.
The geological story of Wyoming is revealed in the walls of Wind River Canyon, and the Wyoming Geological Association has provided highway signs that identify the formation and geologic era of these rock walls. The magnificent Wind River enters this canyon from the south, and when it leaves the canyon to the north, it becomes the Big Horn River. The spot where the river changes names is called the “Wedding of the Waters.”
Outdoor enthusiasts won’t want to miss Boysen Reservoir, located in Boysen State Park near the dam at the foot of Wind River Canyon, with its blue-green waters, miles of sandy beaches, and rolling hills. The lake is only 20 minutes south of Thermopolis and offers day-use and overnight camping facilities.
Some of Wyoming’s best walleye and trout fishing can be found in Boysen Reservoir, which is warm enough for all water sports during most of the summer. An easily accessible swimming beach is located on the east shore, and several concessions and marinas serve the north and south ends of the lake.
Wind River also offers some lunker catches of rainbow and brown trout. A special permit is required to fish Wind River Indian Reservation waters, and boating on the Wind River is forbidden.
Although trout is the usual quarry for fishermen, Wyoming tempts anglers with 22 species of game fish, including six species of trout “” rainbow, brook, brown, cutthroat, golden, and mackinaw. An abundance of grayling, Rocky Mountain whitefish, and kokanee salmon can be found in a number of its waters, as well as warm-water fish such as largemouth and smallmouth bass; crappie; walleye; yellow perch; and channel catfish. Most waters in Wyoming are open year-round.
Fishing permits and licenses are required for anglers. Check with the Thermopolis Chamber of Commerce or the local Wyoming Game and Fish office at (307) 864-3834 for complete information.
This area of western Wyoming is a favorite among those who appreciate other forms of wildlife, too. The mountains, plains, and valleys surrounding Thermopolis are home to mule deer, elk, and antelope, accommodating big-game hunters. Bird-watchers also will find that the Big Horn River, with its tranquil stretches below Wind River Canyon, makes a natural landing strip for water-loving birds such as ducks and wild geese.
If you’re a golf enthusiast, check out the nine-hole Legion Club Golf Course located adjacent to the Thermopolis airport. And if fishing, hunting, and golf still don’t impress, try rockhounding. Be aware, however, that rockhounding is not permitted on the Indian reservation, and permission is needed to collect on private land.
This area could be described as a photographer’s and hiker’s paradise, as the annual average rainfall is only 12 inches (May is the wettest month, and it brings an average of only 2 inches). The crisp, clear days are conducive to excellent photography and miles of hiking. Average high temperatures in summer are in the 80s and low 90s.
History lovers will want to visit the Hot Springs County Museum and Cultural Center in downtown Thermopolis. Exhibits tell the story of early-day ranchers, outlaws, miners, and Indians from the late 1800s to the 1930s. Displays include an elk hide painting created by a Shoshone chief more than 100 years ago, and fascinating historical photographs.
One of the museum’s most interesting and illustrious artifacts is the entire bar from the Hole-in-the-Wall Saloon. This is the historic watering spot where Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid are said to have spent many hours drinking and plotting their lawless escapades. This extensive museum also encompasses several outdoor structures, such as a schoolhouse and a log cabin. It is open daily between Memorial Day and Labor Day, and on Tuesday through Saturday the remainder of the year. A small admission fee is charged.
Make another stop at the Dancing Bear Folk Center and Old West Wax Museum, also downtown. This facility features a collection of exhibits focusing on historic figures and memorabilia; includes a display of quilt squares, some from long ago; and stuffed toys and teddy bears arrayed in various settings. A model railroad layout also is on hand. At the folk center, visitors can spin thread, weave a rug, or try their hand at quilting. The facility is open daily between May 15 and September 14 and from Wednesday through Sunday the remainder of the year. A small admission fee is charged.
The Wyoming Dinosaur Center, a few miles from downtown Thermopolis, is a standout attraction offering a museum and dig sites. The museum has more than 200 displays and includes 20 full-size mounted skeletons, including 10 dinosaurs. Visitors can observe as scientists prepare fossils at the lab. Outside at the dig sites, children and adults can join in programs that involve them in the excavation. Those who simply want to see the process can take a bus tour to the discovery site just outside Thermopolis. An admission fee is charged for the museum, and separate charges are involved with dig site visits.
Yet another historical reminder lies 20 miles west of Thermopolis: Legend Rock. Nearly 300 petroglyphs (rock markings) can be viewed here, in such shapes as birds, bison, elk, and the whimsical kokopelli. Before you travel to Legend Rock, get good directions and obtain a key to open the entry gate at the site. Visit the state park bathhouse to obtain the gate key. Specific directions and more information are available from the Thermopolis Chamber of Commerce and at www.thermopolis.com/petroglph.html.
The first full weekend in August (August 7 and 8, 2004) is set aside for Pageant Days in Thermopolis. Festivities will include an arts and crafts fair along the shaded walkways of Hot Springs State Park; live entertainment; and plenty of food. A “Pageant Parade” will wind through the commercial area of town, and the famous Gift of the Waters Pageant will be performed on two evenings.
The Gift of the Waters Pageant is a re-enactment of the signing of the treaty that set aside Hot Springs State Park. The treaty was signed on April 21, 1896, by Chief Washakie of the Shoshones and Chief Sharp Nose of the Arapahos. The Indians sold a tract of land almost 10 miles square to the United States in exchange for $60,000 worth of cattle and food supplies.
When you decide to visit Yellowstone Park, the Grand Tetons, or nearby Canadian sites, plan your route through Thermopolis. Prepare to fall in love with this quiet, peaceful corner of the West.
Further Info
Thermopolis Chamber of Commerce
P.O. Box 768
119 S. Sixth St.
Thermopolis, WY 82443
(800) 786-6772
(307) 864-3192
E-mail: thercc@rtconnect.net
www.thermopolis.com
Thermopolis is approximately 83 miles from Cody; 130 miles northwest of Casper via U.S. 20; 123 miles southwest of Buffalo via U.S. 16 and U.S. 20; and 180 miles from Rawlins via U.S. 278 to Lander and State Route 789.

Area Campgrounds
Country Campin’ RV Park
710 E. Sunnyside Lane
Thermopolis, WY 82443
(800) 609-2244
(307) 864-2416
http://w3.trib.com/~camp
Eagle RV Park
204 Highway 20 S.
Thermopolis, WY 82443
(888) 865-5707
(307) 864-5262
www.eaglervpark.com
Fountain of Youth RV Park
P.O. Box 711
250 N. Highway 20
Thermopolis, WY 82443
(307) 864-3265
http://w3.trib.com/~foyrvpk
Grandview RV Park
122 Highway 20 S.
Thermopolis, WY 82443
(800) 475-7230
(307) 864-3463
Wyoming Waltz RV & Tent Sites
720 Shoshoni St.
Thermopolis, WY 82443
(307) 864-2778