Tow Bar Pin Protector
To keep dirt and grime out of the pin holes where my Blue Ox tow bar attaches to the towed vehicle, I came up with this idea. Cut a piece of 1-inch-diameter PVC pipe to the length of the pin hole, and then bevel it down to fit into the hole. Glue a cap on the piece of pipe. When the car is unhooked, lightly tap the pipe into the hole. This keeps the dirt from getting into the pin holes so the locking pin goes in easily when I hook up the car to the tow bar.
James Thomas, F230371
Trickle-Charging The Chassis Battery
After I bought a trickle charger to keep my chassis battery charged, a friend suggested the following alternative, which we did. From the positive terminal of the coach battery we ran a wire to the positive pole of the chassis battery. We also included a diode to prevent current backflow. (Editor’s note: adding fuses to the line at each battery will provide over-current protection.) All this year the battery has maintained a steady charge of 13.8 to 14.1 volts. I have given the trickle charger away.
William E. McClain
Inaudible Turn Signals
Many RV drivers find it difficult, if not impossible, to hear the clicking sound from factory-installed turn signals. It is not uncommon to see RVs traveling for miles with the turn signal flashing, because the driver is unaware that the turn signal is on.
One solution is to supplement the factory flashers with an additional audio device such as the RadioShack Mini 12-volt-DC Electric Buzzer (part number 273-055A). Solder the buzzer leads to the flasher as close to the body of the flasher as possible; secure the mini buzzer to the flasher with a tie-wrap; and reinstall the flasher.
William J. Paton, F203866
It seems we never have enough room in our RV, and certainly a lot of clutter. Our bathroom presented such a dilemma. We wanted a place to put our toiletries that would be handy, but not in the way, and would be easy to keep clean.
We found a solution with a plastic tray that measures 15.5 inches long, 3.5 inches wide, and 2.75 inches high. By drilling two keyhole-shaped slots in the tray and using two small Molly-type screws (hollow wall fastener), we found something that works well for us. Here’s how it was done.
Drill two holes large enough for the head of the Molly-type screw to pass through. Then, right above each of those holes, drill a smaller hole that will fit the size of the screw shaft. By leaving the Molly-type screws extended, the tray can be hung close to the wall and easily removed for cleaning.
Measure the opening of the tray and cut a piece of thin, clear plastic to fit snugly into the tray. Using a razor knife, cut out small openings in the plastic in the shapes of the items you will be storing in the tray. The cutouts will keep the items in place when traveling. With the leftover pieces of plastic and some glue, create ledges along the inside of the tray for the clear piece of the plastic to rest upon.
When you glue the plastic ledges on the inside of the tray, place them approximately 1/8-inch from the top. Seat the clear plastic on the ledges and drill small holes “” big enough for a pin to fit through “” just above the plastic. Insert pins in these holes to keep the plastic secure so it won’t move when pulling an item out of the tray. When the plastic needs to be cleaned, simply remove the pins and lift the cover out of the tray.
The cost for this project is less than $10, and it can be done in any area of the motorhome where the walls will accept a Molly-type screw.
Paul & Arlene Hales, F297628
Lake Oswego, Oregon