Baker’s Dozen
By Lowell & Kaye Christie, F47246
June 2005
The idea for this column came from reading Mary Blocksma’s 1995 book, The Fourth Coast. Back in 1990 she left home and family for three months to drive and camp along the entire Great Lakes coastline “” plus some additional waterways. The book recounts her travels. Ms. Blocksma is such a good writer that it brought back memories and started us on an imaginary trip of our own.
This month’s column covers only part of the route, beginning at the Eisenhower Lock in northeast New York (where oceangoing ships rise/fall from one level to the next) westward to the entrance to Lake Ontario. This is the east end of the Seaway Trail National Scenic Byway, a 454-mile route that runs from Lake Erie to the St. Lawrence River. However, that doesn’t mean we won’t stray from the byway from time to time.
1. Follow the signs
We’ve driven along many scenic byways, but this one is a cinch to follow. Seaway trailblazer signs appear every six miles along the route. You’ll also see information displays along the trail in communities, state parks, and rest areas. And don’t forget to grab copies of regional maps to help identify more points of interest along the way.
2. Eisenhower Lock, near Massena, New York
The St. Lawrence Seaway, built jointly by Canada and the United States, was begun in 1954 and completed just five years later. Today visitors can stand at an overlook and watch oceangoing vessels rise (or drop) as the lock is flooded or emptied, and then continue on their way. The town of Massena is just a few miles from the overlook.
3. Robert Moses State Park, off State Route 37, Massena
Oddly, New York has two state parks by this name. This one is located in the Thousand Islands region, whereas the other one is on Long Island. This park, partly on the mainland and partly on Barnhart Island, can be reached via a tunnel that runs under the Eisenhower Lock. Besides excellent camping, the park offers great fishing, hiking trails, a swimming beach, and a nature museum. It’s located three miles north of Massena on the St. Lawrence shoreline. Camping season runs from the middle of May through Labor Day. The swimming beach is open from late June through Labor Day.
4. Akwesasne Museum, St. Regis Mohawk Indian Reservation
Just eight miles from downtown Massena, this museum displays examples of the cultural heritage of the Akwesasne. An outstanding collection of handmade baskets, both decorative and functional, is intriguing and well worth a look.
5. Relive the War of 1812
If you enjoy visiting old battlefields, you will want to pay attention to another series of signs along the Seaway Byway. Forty-two historic site markers draw attention to places significant to the War of 1812. This region saw plenty of action back then. Seaway Trail Inc. calls it a “museum without walls,” in that travelers are led to historic sites, each interpreted with a site-specific message. The experience can be even more enjoyable if you carry a book about the war with you in your motorhome.
6. Seaway Trail Walks
This program offers a series of 90-minute guided walking tours in seven communities along the byway. Your tour guide will lead you on a leisurely stroll while providing insights into the region’s characters, architecture, and folklore. The walks begin in June and are offered until October. Reservations aren’t needed for the walks, but a fee is collected. Call (800) 732-9298 for dates and times of the walks in the various communities.
7. Frederic Remington Museum, 303 Washington St., Ogdensburg, New York
Talk about a great location “” this museum lies right on the St. Lawrence River shore. Two historic houses linked by a modern wing contain the Remington collection, which includes works from all phases of the artist’s career, including bronze sculptures, oil and watercolor paintings, and illustrations. Also on display are some of Remington’s personal belongings. Remington is easily one of the most recognized American artists. Born in northern New York at the start of the Civil War, he spent most of his childhood in the area and is buried in Canton’s Evergreen Cemetery in Ogdensburg. The museum is open daily from May through October, and Wednesday through Sunday November through April. An admission fee is charged.
8. Historic trail lighthouses
Twenty-eight lighthouses dot the Seaway Trail route. Most are privately owned, and many of them are on islands. Keep your eyes peeled and your camera handy. You’re certain to find some fantastic views.
9. Singer Castle on Dark Island
Just over a century ago this 28-room castle was built for Frederick Gilbert Bourne, president of the Singer Sewing Machine Company. It was the second-largest summer home on the St. Lawrence River. The castle remained in the Bourne family until 1962 when it was bequeathed to the LaSalle Military Academy. Later it was sold for use as a children’s camp and then functioned as a nondenominational retreat. Guided tours take visitors today through four floors of the castle. Or, enjoy the free video tour instead. Call (877) 327-5475 or visit www.singercastle.com for more information. You can reach Dark Island by boat from Morristown or Alexandria Bay.
10. Silas Wright Museum, Canton, New York
The restored 1833 home of New York Governor Silas Wright now houses the St. Lawrence County Historical Association and contains several rooms of original and period furnishings. There is no charge to visit the museum, but nonmembers pay a small fee to access its extensive archives of books, manuscripts, photos, maps, genealogical information, and cemetery records. It is located at 3 E. Main St. in Canton; (315) 386-8133. The museum is open year-round, Tuesday through Saturday.
11. Indian Creek Nature Center, Canton
The Upper and Lower Lakes Wildlife Management Area is a large wetland in St. Lawrence County bordered by the Grasse and Oswegatchie rivers. At the nature center, just a small part of the entire wildlife area, you’ll find 4½ miles of trails ranging in difficulty from a handicapped-accessible boardwalk to a narrow path leading to an observation tower. A nearby bird blind lets you watch birds unseen.
12. Boldt Castle, Alexandria Bay, New York
The address for this incredible structure may be Alexandria Bay, but the castle and its yacht house are actually on Heart Island. Unless you are a very strong swimmer, you’ll want to take a tour boat or water taxi to get there. Once on the island, visitors can take self-guided tours of the century-old, 120-room castle, plus view various interpretive structures on the island. The castle is open May 7 to October 16. For more information, call (315) 482-9724 or visit www.boldtcastle.com.
13. Thousand Islands area museums, Clayton, New York
You’ll find many museums on the islands. Here’s a brief introduction to three of them, all located in Clayton. The Thousand Islands Museum has an enormous collection of items related to fishing, including huge stuffed fish and decoys from the past and present. It is located at 312 James St.; (315) 686-5794. The Antique Boat Museum features freshwater boat exhibits, programs, and classes, and is located at 750 Mary St.; (315) 686-4104. For a break from watercraft, try the Handweaving Museum & Arts Center, which presents traditional textile arts and handcrafts. It’s located at 314 John St.; (315) 686-4123.