Stop That Towable
Q: I have read articles on supplemental brakes until I am blue. I find I just get confused. There are cable systems, inertia systems, and combinations of this and that, with prices from $400 to $1,400. Is there anyone who has done an evaluated study of each of the systems, pointing out the pros and cons? I expect most of the differences that set one system apart from another have to do with the weight of the vehicle being towed, etc. We tow a Chevy Malibu behind our gasoline-powered motorhome, and we are within the manufacturer’s weight guidelines. Issues such as the inclusion of power brakes on the towable, the portability of the system versus semi-permanent, and so on need to be evaluated. I like the principles of some of them. So, how does one make a wise choice?
Al Seitz, F286797
Milford, Michigan
A: The plethora of choices for supplemental braking systems can be mind-boggling. The fact that there are different technologies involved in their designs deepens the question. There truly is no “best” supplemental braking system that will work in every situation. But what they all provide is braking assistance, so that the motorhome and towed vehicle combination can be stopped safely. Actually, the different design elements used in the supplemental braking systems depend more upon the motorhome’s brake design (air, hydraulic, etc.) than the towable’s.
To my knowledge, there has never been a comprehensive study performed on the various supplemental braking systems that are available. There have been reviews from time to time, but no side-by-side study.
The July 2003 issue of Family Motor Coaching magazine includes an article (page 62) that chronicles approximately 20 different supplemental braking systems. One of the good points about this article is that contact information is listed for each of the manufacturers. You can find the article at www.fmca.com by clicking on the “FMC Magazine” link and searching through the back issues for the July 2003 magazine articles.
My advice is to clearly write out your requirements for a braking system. Weigh all factors, such as cost, availability, service after the sale, etc. Maybe even make a few phone calls to the manufacturers and have each explain why they consider their product to be the best on the market. Should you call a company about its product, ask them for four or five references you can contact to get their impressions. Carefully analyze your results, sleep on it a day or two, and then make an informed decision.
If possible, visit one of FMCA’s international conventions and attend the supplemental braking seminar. During this session you can question the manufacturers simultaneously. If you’re interested in products from several companies, visit each company’s booth in the exhibitors’ area and speak to a representative one-on-one. At that time you can inspect the equipment and get a better feeling about how to install and use the product.
Tandem Tow Dollies
Q: I am a new FMCA member and would like to get some advice about tandem tow dollies “” the type that can be used to haul a motorcycle and a small car behind a motorhome. The companies I’ve checked out are Overbilt Lifts Inc. (www.getoverbilt.com) and Race City RV Products LLC (www.racecityrvproducts.com). Perhaps there are other members who use the type of dolly I’m looking for or know someone who has one. Is there a forum that I can use to communicate with other members about such topics?
Don Rowe, F358832
Slickville, Pennsylvania
A: The companies that you mentioned pretty much cover the suppliers we know about who provide the type of equipment you’re looking for. However, other FMCA members may have personal experience with the type of tow dollies you’re interested in, and we encourage them to send in any suggestions. You also might consider stepping up to a car-hauler trailer that has the capacity to transport both a car and a motorcycle. In addition, I suggest you contact the companies involved and ask them for references with whom you can discuss the dollies.
No Cold Norcold
Q: I have a 1994 Winnebago Vectra motorhome with a Norcold 682 refrigerator. It will run on propane but not on shore power. When plugged into shore power and placed on “Auto” (only choice being propane or “Auto”), the propane ignites. The cover to the roof vents for the refrigerator came off, so the electrical connections may have gotten wet. Any suggestions on how to proceed?
Bob Kiel, F296978
Fairview, Pennsylvania
A: First, I would recommend calling Norcold (800-767-9101), if you haven’t already done so, to see whether this refrigerator is on a recall list. If it is, let the service center deal with the problem while they attend to the recall, which is an AC voltage issue.
Diagnosing any 120-volt-AC item requires some degree of aptitude with electricity, as electrocution is a possibility. If you are not proficient or comfortable with testing 120-volt-AC circuits, take your coach to a service center and let qualified people do the job.
It would appear that your problem lies with the controls not getting 120-volt-AC power; the connections not passing the voltage on; or the circuit board failing to react to the incoming voltage since it stays on gas when it should be switching over to electric.
If you are comfortable working with electric and have a multimeter capable of reading AC voltage, here is a simple diagnostic:
1. Read all the instructions on the multimeter. Don’t stand in water. Don’t do this in the rain. Don’t ground your body to anything. And use insulated tools.
2. Unplug the refrigerator service line from the 120-volt-AC outlet.
3. Test the 120-volt-AC outlet to verify that voltage is available. If the multimiter fails to record AC voltage, check the circuit breakers and all GFI (ground fault circuit interrupter) outlets.
4. If you are receiving power, keep the service line unplugged and disconnect the 12-volt-DC positive wire and tape the end. Remove the cover from the lower control board on the back of the refrigerator.
5. One at a time, unplug all the connectors and reconnect them, making sure all are firm. Tighten the ground(s); reconnect the 12-volt-DC positive wire; and plug in the AC service line. See whether the refrigerator begins to receive 120-volt-AC power.
6. If it is still not getting any AC power, unplug the 120-volt-AC line, disconnect the 12-volt-DC positive wire, and unplug the two wires that go to the 120-volt-AC heater.
7. Reconnect the 12-volt-DC positive and plug in the service line but leave the 120-volt heater wires disconnected.
8. Turn the refrigerator on and switch the controls to the “Auto” (AC mode).
9. Carefully test the vacant terminals that fed the AC heater to see whether current is passing through the circuit board.
10. If the multimeter fails to register any AC current, the circuit board is defective and should be replaced.
Braking An Explorer
Q: We just bought a 2003 Ford Explorer Sport Trac. We researched long and hard before finding just the right vehicle that we thought would work for us. We had Ford install the neutral tow kit. The Sport Trac is listed in the owners manual as being towable with this kit. The kit cost $23 and with installation it totaled $126. We have not towed it yet, as we are awaiting the base plate.
Our dilemma is that some people have told us we cannot use auxiliary braking with this neutral tow switch. We’ve been told that the auxiliary braking system will disengage the neutral tow switch and will ruin the vehicle’s transmission. We always use an auxiliary braking system, so this may prove to be a real fly in the ointment. Nowhere on the information with the kit did it say the brake disengages the neutral tow switch. That is not how the switch disengages the transmission. However, setting the switch does involve depressing the brake pedal.
I cannot find any information that will answer this question. My Ford dealer did not even know about the neutral tow kit “” I had to educate him about it. So I doubt that he will know the answer to this. I have emailed BrakeBuddy and am awaiting a reply.
Dale Pace
Via e-mail
A: I made a call to one of my Ford automotive contacts, who in turn spoke with several Explorer engineers about your request. No one has heard any reports of the possible transmission problem you describe when using an auxiliary braking system, but I did learn that the vehicle’s brakes do not activate unless the ignition switch is turned on. Also, you may likely know this already, but only four-wheel-drive Explorer Sport Trac vehicles can be towed four wheels down.
Blazer Towing
Q: I am towing a 2002 Chevrolet Blazer and I’m having a problem. The battery becomes discharged while the vehicle is being towed long distances. I installed a heavy-duty gel-cell battery; we traveled from Florida to Las Vegas, Nevada, and it was discharged again. I’m doing something wrong but I don’t know what it is. Should I disconnect the battery or is there a fuse to pull out?
Edward Harper, F194663
Las Vegas, Nevada
A: Have you checked your owners manual under “Recreational Towing” for the proper steps to take to prepare the vehicle for towing? The steps listed in the owners manual should tell you exactly what needs to be done to make the Blazer safe for towing. The manual will tell you if there are any fuses to be pulled and give you the specific numbers of those fuses. When you release the steering wheel lock, make sure you are placing the key in the correct position. If you put it in the ignition position, that could be the cause of your battery drain.