House Calls with the RV Doctor
By Gary Bunzer
Dear RV Doctor:
The city water connection on my RV is leaking, so I turned it off. After I disconnect the screws that fasten the cover plate to the outside, does the city water connection cover just pop off, or does it have to be unscrewed or something? I can’t see the housing of the inlet by removing the panel in the bathroom and need to find where the leak is originating.
RV Doctor: Dave, it depends on the type of plumbing line that was used for the fresh water piping system on your coach. If it is rigid copper or plastic, there may not be much “give” in the lines to allow you to pull the city water entry out past the sidewall. Flexible tubing used for the fresh water lines is usually more forgiving and can be manipulated somewhat. Still, there has to be a way to get a wrench on the back side of that fitting in order to remove it. Look closely inside the coach; it may be hidden behind a panel or a galley drawer, etc. Once you remove it, be sure to extend the piping to enable an easier access the next time.
If the city water entry is leaking only when the pump is employed, it could simply be a matter of debris stuck in the backflow preventer portion of the city water fill. Before attempting to remove the city water inlet, try this: turn on the water pump, pressurizing the system, and then push a pencil (use the eraser end) into the city water inlet to depress the spring. This will cause water to spray back at you, so beware! Do this a couple of times to allow the pump pressure to force out any contaminants that may have been trapped in the check valve. If it still leaks, then remove the inlet.
Dear RV Doctor:
I have a 6,500-watt gas-powered Onan generator that starts and runs on the starter but quits when I release the switch. I have tuned it up, replaced the fuel pump (not up to par), and, after much searching, found the specifications for the points, etc. Does this engine have a ballast resistor (like the old Dodge chassis)? And where would it be located “” in the coil?
Avon Park, Florida
RV Doctor: Larry, I haven’t seen this problem in quite some time. Indeed there is a resistor in the start circuit that if faulty will result in your specific symptom.
On your unit there is a resistor located on the generator end (the right-hand side) of the unit as it’s positioned in the compartment. There is a removable shroud covering the brushes and other generator components on that right-hand side. Disconnect the battery to the generator and look under that shroud. You should see a metal spring clasp that holds the shroud in place. Release the clasp and the shroud can either be lifted off the unit or slid to the right to gain access to the resistor. The resistor is located under the upper support bracket closest to you. It will have two spade connectors on it. It will be necessary to remove the resistor (one long screw through the center) and replace it with one of the same rating. Your parts book for that generator should reveal the actual part number you need. I’ve never fully understood why this resistor burns out periodically, but a new one should have that unit on-line in no time.
A faulty oil pressure switch or low oil pressure would create a similar condition, but in that instance the generator would not start at all. And don’t forget that you have to have more than a quarter tank of fuel to operate the generator.