Baker’s Dozen
By Lowell & Kaye Christie, F47246
August 2007
Visit some of these less-publicized attractions in the nation’s capital.
Washington, D.C., is one of the few cities we go out of our way to visit. The only problem is trying to find someplace to park a large motorhome. If you wish to drive yourself around the area, the best way is by towed vehicle. Another good idea is to stay in a nearby campground. We usually choose Greenbelt Park, run by the National Park Service, which has nice sites but no hookups. It’s only about a dozen miles from the White House, and a mile from the nearest Metro station, which is a great way to get into and around the city.
Other campgrounds in the area offer tours of the U.S. capital as well, so check your campground directory or FMCA’s Business Directory (at FMCA.com or in the June and January issues of FMC). We assume you’ll visit many of the museums and other national treasures located in and around the area, but here are some other worthwhile places to put on your itinerary.
1. Rock Creek Park. When you’re tired after a long day of sight-seeing, Rock Creek Park is a great place to relax and regain your energy. Created more than a century ago, its intent was to provide peaceful, scenic views and a variety of recreational opportunities. You’ll find equestrian trails, a nature center, a planetarium, a golf course, cultural exhibits, and Civil War fortifications. The park is located along Rock Creek and its tributaries, from the National Zoo to the District of Columbia boundary.
2. National Zoological Park. Planned by one of the most influential landscape architectural firms in America, this zoo was a drastic departure from the traditional practice of confining zoological collections into small areas. Just two of the original buildings still exist: the Principal Animal House (now the lion house) and the New Mammal House (now the monkey house). Of course, one of the main attractions these days is the Giant Panda Habitat exhibit.
3. National Cathedral. This Gothic-style cathedral, which was in the planning and building stage for two centuries, finally was completed in 1990 after 83 years of construction. Currently the cathedral is the sixth-largest in the world, and the second-largest in the United States. The building contains wood carvings, leaded glass, and more than 200 stained-glass windows. The cathedral is located at the corner of Wisconsin and Massachusetts avenues and is open to the public daily.
4. C&O Canal National Historical Park. The Chesapeake & Ohio Canal is certainly an impressive survivor of the canal-building era. To draw attention to the project, President John Quincy Adams turned the first spade of dirt in ceremonies back in 1828. By the time the Civil War ended, more than 500 boats were using the canal. Now, nearly two centuries later, it remains without substantial change over its entire 185-mile length. The park is located along the canal from Rock Creek Park to the D.C. boundary. It is open during daylight hours, but some of the five visitors centers operate on a seasonal schedule.
5. Georgetown Historic District. Georgetown was formally established back in 1751 when the Maryland Assembly authorized a town on 60 acres along the Potomac River, named in honor of King George II. The district contains some pre-Revolutionary War buildings, but many of the houses were built after 1800. Most of the Georgetown area remains residential, but the 1765 Old Stone House at 3051 M St., is open to the public.
6. Massachusetts Avenue Historic District. Between 1890 and 1930, Massachusetts Avenue, between Scott Circle and Observatory Hill, became a boulevard lined with the homes of some of the country’s most influential citizens. The Great Depression forced many of the owners to sell their dwellings. Various embassies, foundations, and clubs moved into the district, buying the buildings of greatest architectural and historical significance. None of the houses on “embassy row” are open to the public today, but just taking a trip down Massachusetts Avenue is an architectural adventure.
7. Dupont Circle Historic District. This primarily residential district features palatial mansions and freestanding residences built between the late 1800s and the early 1900s. Today visitors can tour the Christian Heurich House Museum, commonly known as the Brewmaster’s Castle, which was constructed between 1892 and 1894 by German immigrant Christian Heurich, one of Washington’s wealthiest citizens and philanthropists. After learning how to become a brewer in Europe, he came to the United States at the close of the Civil War and started the Christian Heurich Lager Beer Brewery. The interior of the house, including most of the furniture, has been preserved much as it was when the Heurichs lived there. Visitors see the curving staircase made of brass, marble, and onyx; the elaborately carved wooden fireplaces; and the richly ornamented bathtubs and washbasins. The home is located at 1307 New Hampshire Ave. N.W.
8. St. Matthew’s Cathedral. St. Matthew’s Cathedral is considered one of the most impressive places of worship in the United States. Built in 1893, its design was heavily influenced by Italian churches. The cathedral was the site of a number of important funerals, most notably that of President John F. Kennedy in 1963. St. Matthew’s Cathedral is located at 1725 Rhode Island Ave. N.W.
9. The Embassy Gulf Service Station. For a change of pace, proceed to P Street, near the entrance to Georgetown, where you’ll find one handsome gas station. Back in 1936 the Gulf Oil Corporation directed architect P.L.R. Hogner to design a station that would blend in with, and enhance, its location. His plan used the materials and style more commonly seen in banks and libraries. As you can imagine, it resulted in one classy place to buy gas.
10. Sixteenth Street Historic District. Sixteenth Street, one of the most important numbered streets in the city, is 160 feet wide and affords a view south to the White House. Built between 1870 and 1927, the structures lining the street range from small office buildings to three- and four-story row houses, detached houses, churches, and all sizes of apartments. Some of the earliest houses stand on the northwest corner of 16th and T streets. The buildings are private residences and not open to the public, but take a look on your way to the next entry.
11. Scottish Rite Temple. One of the most unusual buildings in the 16th Street District is the Temple of the Scottish Rite, the brainchild of the same architect who designed the National Archives and the Jefferson Memorial. He used as his model the tomb of King Mausolus at Halicarnassus, one of the seven wonders of the ancient world. Outside, huge sphinxes guard the temple doors. In 1931 the structure was voted the fifth most beautiful building in the world by members of the Association of American Architects. It’s located at 1733 16th St. N.W. Tours are available weekdays from 8:00 a.m. to 2:00 p.m.
12. Charles Sumner School. The Charles Sumner School, constructed in 1872, was named for U.S. Senator Charles Sumner, a major figure in the fight for the abolition of slavery. It was one of the first public buildings dedicated to the education of the African-American community. It serves as one of the few physical reminders of the presence and history of African-Americans in one of the most historic areas of the city. The Charles Sumner School is located on 17th and M streets. Inside is a museum that is open free to the public Monday through Saturday.
13. Kenilworth Park & Aquatic Gardens. Kenilworth, a National Park Service site, is located in northeast Washington, D.C., near the Maryland boundary. After the Civil War, W.B. Shaw purchased 37 acres to grow water lilies. Beginning with 12 hardy white lilies from Maine, he gradually began digging ponds in order to experiment with hybridization. In 1912 the family began selling their lilies commercially, and eventually was shipping thousands of hand-picked lilies a day to major Eastern cities. The gardens are dotted with century-old propagation greenhouses and huge ponds. They teem with tiny turtles sunning on water lily leaves, huge dragonflies, koi in one pond, and mosquito fish in most of the others. Choosing the time and season for a visit depends on your interests. Late May through September is the peak flower period. (Be sure to come in the morning, before the flowers close for the day.) Wildlife watchers may prefer arriving between October and March for winter birding.