Weepy Window
Dear RV Doctor:
I have a 1997 motorhome that has recently developed a leak in a sliding window. I have sprayed water on it from the outside to try to determine where it is leaking, and it looks as though the water is coming from under the window trim. The water then flows over the wall onto the seat cushions. All of the weep holes are open and appear to be working fine, so I think that the butyl has dried up and is now leaking. My question is, how hard is this to fix? It would seem all I need to do is remove the trim from the inside and then push out the window. I’m not familiar with all of the elements of the window, like where the butyl tape is located, and what is that material around the window “” is it to seal or just for aesthetics? Any guidance would be very much appreciated.
Betty Rhodes, Milwaukee, Wisconsin
Betty, window leaks can indeed be exasperating. Many service shops have a tendency to simply apply sealant to the top and side edges of the window, but to do the job correctly, the window should be removed completely and new butyl applied. This is my preference and recommendation, but you’ll need two people to accomplish this task. Here’s how to do it. First, remove the garnish trim ring inside the RV and then carefully push a wide-blade putty knife under the exterior flange to break the seal of the existing sealant. Have another person hold on to the window, even though it’s unlikely it will simply fall out. After you cut through all the sealant around the entire perimeter, slowly push the window out from the interior while the helper keeps cutting through the sealant with the putty knife. Be sure the window stays flat while pushing it out. Don’t allow it to flex too much, as this may crack the glass.
Once the window is free from the sidewall, lay it on a flat surface and remove all remnants of the existing sealant. This is important; all the old sealant must be removed from the flange and the sidewall.
After cleaning off the old sealant, install new sealant to the inside of the exterior flange (Eternabond tape works great in this instance). Apply a vinyl-backed thermal barrier to the inside of the interior garnish trim. Then center the window into position. It may be necessary to shim the window in the cutout in the sidewall. You’ll want an even gap all around. I usually use a wooden tapered shim (no longer than three-quarters the thickness of the wall) to easily “lift” the window to the correct placement. Again, your helper is holding the window in place during this installation.
Once the window is centered in the opening, install the inside trim ring. Be sure to reinstall all the screws. If any screw appears stripped or will not tighten properly, replace it with a larger screw. This is what actually “sandwiches” the wall between the inside and outside flanges. The exterior sealant should fully compress all around the perimeter. If any gaps are evident, it will be necessary to remove the window and apply extra sealant in those areas. Remember, not all sidewalls are completely flat. Some aluminum patterns have many dips and valleys. Likewise, the vinyl-backed foam tape on the inside trim should also fully compress, thereby effectuating a tight vapor seal. Carefully use a utility knife to trim the excess sealant that has squeezed out from the flange. Some shops may apply a thin bead of clear silicone sealant on top of the window frame, but if the installation is performed correctly, this is usually not necessary. And be very careful when handling the glass, for as glass ages, it becomes more brittle.
Holding Tank Stoppage
Dear RV Doctor:
Our black-water tank is plugged up near the toilet. We bought one of those Flush Kings and backwashed the tank several times. We took a snake and ran it as far as it would go from the toilet side, and still it did not drain. The snake seemed to just coil up. Is there something else we could try?
Randall Peters, Phoenix, Arizona
Randall, the subject of those dreaded holding tank blockages surfaces from time to time. It’s further compounded when the holding tank is not positioned directly under the toilet. The optimum setup finds the toilet drainpipe going straight down and into the holding tank without the use of elbows. Unfortunately, some manufacturers, because of the floor plan design, are forced to use elbows to connect the toilet to the black water holding tank, which I’m guessing is the situation on your coach.
In addition, toilet tank blockages often occur when tank valves are left in the open position while in the campground, which allows all the liquid to drain out, leaving the solids behind to dry out and stick in the drain piping or coagulate at the tank outlet. Always keep the tank termination valves fully closed until each tank is above three-quarters full before evacuating. In most cases, an almost full tank will provide enough force to completely drain all the solids along with the liquids. This, of course, is assuming the slope of the drainpipe, including the sewer hose, is adequate and the tank vents are fully functioning.
You might want to inspect your entire waste system design and look for deficiencies. For severe blockages, it may be necessary to use a powered snake down through the toilet; a simple, manual twist snake may not suffice. Another option is to disassemble the termination fittings on the outlet of the tank. The termination valve is secured in place using four bolts. After all the liquid stops flowing, remove the bolts and the valve and see if you can gain access with a snake from that end. It may be messy and it certainly is undesirable, but a handy do-it-yourselfer can easily accomplish this task. Make a funnel out of a large plastic water jug; you see them upside down on common water coolers. Cut off the neck including down about four inches of the widest circumference. Position the coach with the termination valve directly over a sewer dump site. Insert the new funnel into the sewer inlet and then take off the valve. Be sure to wear rubber gloves and long sleeves! This will allow you access at both ends of the system.
If you still cannot remove the blockage, perhaps it’s time to either have it vacuumed out (ask at the campground’s office for local information on this) or contact All-Pro Water Flow (www.allprowaterflow.com; 800-509-6143). Their specialty is hydro-cleaning holding tanks and drain assemblies by using very high water pressure and a special nozzle that allows cleaning of the entire tank interior. I recommend this procedure at least once a year anyway to keep the tank probes clean and to eliminate false readings on the monitor panel. Backflushing with typical city water pressure will not adequately clean or clear stubborn blockages.
Solar Battery Charging
Dear RV Doctor:
My roof air conditioner has a solar charger that connects to the rear battery. The connection (one wire only) is on the negative post of the battery. Is this correct? It is a new battery, and it went dead.
Mario Valencia, San Leandro, California
Mario, the simplest of DC circuits mandates that a minimum of two wires be present: the charge line (positive 12 volts) and a return path to ground. It appears there is a hot wire missing from the solar panel mounted on the roof A/C unit. The solar panel can still generate a charge, but without that wire to the positive side of the battery, an open circuit exists and no charging is possible. Remove the solar panel and see if the missing wire either broke away from the panel or was never routed to the battery. It may be possible to rewire the panel and run a new charge line to the positive post of the battery, but a close inspection must be made first. Plus, the panel itself should be tested to be sure it is still functioning properly.
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