The refrigerator is approximately 24 inches wide and about the same depth. I measured my door, and it is approximately 20 inches wide. I cannot figure any way to remove it or to install the new one.
Jae Mobley, North Wilkesboro, North Carolina
Better sit down, Jae. I’ll say it as gently as I can. During that era, in some instances the refrigerator was placed on the floor of the RV during manufacturing before the sidewalls were erected. Then, after the walls, the roof, and the cabinets went up, the refrigerator was installed in its final position. I remember with one particular manufacturer’s units, it actually was necessary to remove the windshield in order to muscle the old refrigerator out. The door opening was simply too narrow. In some coaches I’ve been able to remove the doors, hinges, and garnish trim on the old refrigerator to obtain a slimmer profile. I then removed the motorhome entry door completely. The opening in the sidewall for the door may be wider than you think. Be sure to measure the actual opening in the sidewall, not just the opening between the door jambs, before you remove anything. With the entry door removed and the refrigerator stripped to its narrowest profile, perhaps it will fit through. As a last resort, there is always the windshield. I sincerely hope, however, it fits through the entry door’s rough opening. As an alternative, you may be able to have a technician repair the current cooler without removal from the coach.
Tank Capacities
Dear RV Doctor:
How can I figure the size of the gas tank in my 1989 34-foot Dolphin motorhome?
Von San, Alpine, California
Von, for any rectangular container, be it a fuel tank, holding tank, or fresh water tank, simply multiply the height (in inches) times the length (in inches) times the width (in inches) and divide by 231. The result will be the approximate gallons that tank will hold.
Formula: height x length x width divided by 231
Example: A tank measures 12 inches by 36 inches by 18 inches
So: 12 x 36 x 18 = 7,776 cubic inches
Divided by: 231 = 33.6-gallon capacity (approximate)
Not all RV tanks (holding tanks, fresh water tanks, fuel containers, etc.) are completely rectangular. In those instances of odd-shaped tanks or tanks with offsets, it will be necessary to visualize the tank in rectangular forms and then simply add the total cubic inches of each section before dividing by 231. Also, remember that some RV containers cannot be filled to the fullest measured capacity. Take-off tubes, inlet and outlet plumbing fittings and fixtures, drain components, etc. may reduce the total capacity of that tank somewhat. Use this formula as an approximation only. Cylindrical LP-gas containers require a completely different formula. This formula is for square or rectangular tanks only.
High-Voltage Generator
Dear RV Doctor:
I have an Onan generator in an older Itasca Suncruiser. After testing, I think I have proven that the generator is providing excess voltage; actually around 144 volts. It drops to 129 volts with both air conditioners running. Any help on how to correct the voltage output that is too high?
Norman Wimer, Tionesta, Pennsylvania
Norman, oftentimes generators require a tune-up and setup. If you are indeed measuring more than 140 volts AC, do not use the generator until a proper setup can be performed. A typical RV generator has three possible adjustable components, and each component has multiple adjustments. Periodically, each of these adjustment points must be checked and set properly. The choke assembly may have one or two adjustments, the governor will have a couple, and the typical gasoline carburetor will have three adjustments. Here’s the drawback: each adjustment to the carburetor and the governor has a direct electrical result. In other words, every time someone turns a screwdriver or a wrench on those two components specifically, the voltage and the electrical frequency will be altered. The only way to correctly adjust the carburetor and the governor is by monitoring the output voltage and frequency at the same time a specific load is applied. That’s why it’s impossible to “tune a generator by ear” like we used to do with lawnmowers and other small gasoline engines. Many well-meaning handypersons have a habit of trying to adjust the RV generator to make it “run right.” Unfortunately, this only results in a poor-running machine and/or incorrect output voltage, etc.
There is a strict set of procedures whereby a generator is properly set up using a device called a load bank. Proper testing would also verify a faulty voltage regulator as well. Only qualified RV technicians should attempt to tune a generator. When you have the gen set tuned and reset, also have the crankcase oil changed so that your maintenance schedule can start at zero.
I wish I had an easy fix for you, but measurements must be taken and the generator adjusted correctly before diagnostics can continue.
No AC Power
Dear RV Doctor:
I have no power in the kitchen or the front of the motorhome. My combination oven/microwave doesn’t work either. I checked the breakers and fuses. I can’t figure it out.
Denise Crain, Orange, California
Denise, have you checked the ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI)? Yours may be either a receptacle (usually located in the bathroom) or a circuit breaker (located at the breaker box). It is a device that is mandated by the electrical code for recreation vehicles and protects all receptacles situated near sinks and those that are located on the exterior of the RV. All GFCIs contain a bypass or test function that is user-invoked. This function allows testing of the internal electronic components of the GFCI. It also verifies the integrity of all receptacles on that same branch circuit. The GFCI should be tested regularly. If yours has tripped, it simply may need resetting. If not, then further troubleshooting may be in order. But I’d wager it’s the GFCI. Let’s hope so!
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