Will Hussey, Jacksonville, Florida
Will, there are a couple of worthwhile methods owners can choose for testing the battery system for a drain. Begin by making sure the shoreline cord is unplugged and that all 12-volt components are turned off.
The easiest way to check for a battery drain is to use a clamp-on DC ammeter. This device clamps around one of the battery cables and reads directly in amps or milliamps depending on the size of the current drain. The nice thing about the DC ammeter is that no wiring needs to be disconnected; however, they are rather expensive for the average RV handyperson.
Another method invokes the use of a volt-ohmmeter (VOM). Most RVers will carry a VOM for measuring voltage, but many quality VOMs will have an “amp” scale for measuring DC current. Begin by setting the VOM to the 10-amp scale and then remove the negative cable from the battery. The result is an open DC circuit. Connect the red test lead from the VOM to the cable you just disconnected and the black test lead to the negative terminal on the battery itself. Now you have a complete circuit with the meter inserted in series with the negative cable. If a battery drain exists, you will see a draw on the battery measured in amps or milliamps.
There are a few parasitic drains on both battery systems that are considered normal if they fall within the acceptable standard of around 100 milliamps or less (about one-tenth of one amp). Next, make certain all 12-volt appliances, lamps, etc. are turned off; don’t forget those lamps inside storage bays or other out-of-the-way locations! If the drain persists, go to the DC fuse panel and remove each fuse, one fuse at a time. If the drain disappears when a particular fuse is removed, the meter will indicate zero. When that happens, you’ll know that fuse is protecting the circuit that contains the component draining the battery.
If your circuits are labeled somewhat nebulously, you may need to launch a more finite search. Here’s an example. Say the VOM indicated a fuse labeled “Right Side,” signifying that circuit is situated on the right side of the RV. Now you have at least eliminated the left side and narrowed the search to just those 12-volt items on the right side of the coach. One by one, seek out every 12-volt item. Work from one end to the other in a systematic way. In one troubleshooting case I finally found that the booster for the TV antenna was inadvertently left in the “on” position, creating a small draw that eventually drained the battery. Once it was turned off, the measured drain on the meter fell to within the acceptable standard. It’s a matter of eliminating those “good” circuits in order to find the “faulty” circuit and component. Good luck!
Which Tank?
Dear RV Doctor:
On my older Pace Arrow motorhome, which tank is the main fuel tank “” the front or the back? When the dash switch is in the main position, the motorhome will run for about 10 minutes, then die. I’ve changed the fuel pump, but I’ve got the same problem. What now?
J.R. Taylor, via e-mail
J.R., typically Fleetwood designated the “main” fuel tank as the one that came with the chassis. It will be the one centered between the frame rails. The auxiliary tank is most likely situated to one side or the other. The main tank is usually the larger of the two containers as well. But your problem may not be in the fuel containers. The older Pace Arrows had an electric switchover valve that enabled you to select a tank from which to pull fuel; hence your dash switch. If the solenoid portion of the valve becomes faulty, or the passageway blocked, you’ll be unable to switch between tanks. Have a technician test this device. It will be located on one of the side frame rails and will have either three or six fuel hoses attached to it. Many RVers have added an auxiliary 12-volt fuel pump to help get fuel from the main tank up and to the carburetor. Also, some fuel tanks were equipped with an internal pump that can fail. I’ve always favored the outboard type that can be easily serviced. But, you do need to have fuel getting through that changeover valve before it reaches the engine.
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