Several years ago I had similar troubles and found that the wires in the connectors were all broken and shorted due to moisture and dissimilar metal corrosion. The wire was copper, and the connector lugs were steel. I replaced the connectors with ones equipped with copper lugs and packed the internals with grease. Worked great!
I do have an electrical problem I would like your advice on, though. One of the two battery disconnect solenoids isn’t working anymore. The switch has six terminals on it, and each has a wire connected to it. The solenoid is almost impossible to see let alone get a multimeter connected. Do you have any suggestions on how to determine which is bad, the switch or the solenoid?
Jim Brossard, F207061, Bellevue, Washington
Jim, thanks for the comments on that earlier question; good additional information for our readers. Now, on to your issue. Assuming you have an Intellitec battery disconnect system, my first inclination is that one or both of the fuses on the solenoid are blown. There should be two fuses mounted on top of each battery solenoid, and it appears it’s time to check them for continuity. Although you have indicated difficulty in accessing the solenoids, you should be able to feel for the fuses in order to remove and check them. Since you can’t readily see or access the solenoids, you can attempt to troubleshoot the problem from behind the switch panel. Turn both switches to the “use” or “connect” position.
Since you did not indicate which solenoid was not switching, try the following. If the coach battery is not switching, check for 12-volt DC between the white and brown wires. If the problem is with the chassis solenoid, check for 12 volts between the gray and purple wires. If you have a nominal 12 volts present at these wires but the solenoid is not switching, then there is either a wiring or connection problem, or the solenoid itself is faulty. If you have no voltage at either of those two sets of wires, a problem exists with the switch or control board. If that is the case, turn off the switches and swap the wiring between the two switches, one at a time, being very careful not to mix up the wire positions. Hint: Label each one before removing it. Turn the switches back on and check to see whether the solenoid that wasn’t working is functioning now. If it is, you have a faulty switch. If the same solenoid still doesn’t work, then the solenoid is faulty and needs to be replaced. Any other problem would likely indicate something is wrong with the control panel itself. Remember to return the switch wires to their original positions.
If you have someone to assist you, you also can use a common 12-volt test light to verify the various points of active voltage (or the lack of voltage) to each of the circuits involved. While an assistant manually operates each disconnect switch through its specific on and off function, test each circuit for voltage.
Pimpled Paneling
Dear RV Doctor:
Our motorhome is 2 years old, and we have discovered what is best described as small pimples on the interior wallboard under the passenger window. I’m guessing there are around 100 of them that are about 1/16-inch wide. Suspecting this is a water leak, I removed the interior window trim and sprayed water on the roof and window, looking for the leak, but found nothing. What could this be?
Thomas Smrdel, Lodi, Ohio
Thomas, you are indeed correct in that these types of marks generally are caused by water reacting with the glue on the wall panels. Removing the window trim was the right course of action. If you are sure there is no source of water entry at the window itself or the roof above, then the leak must be coming from farther up the sidewall or other areas of the roof. The water is likely entering remotely and seeping toward the window, where it finds its way to the interior of the coach. Remember, water will seek its own level. Coupled with gravity, it stands to reason that it could enter anywhere above and become evident anywhere below.
A good place to start a detailed inspection would be at the trim moldings and roof seams just above that window. Inspect them very carefully for open seals. Reseal any that might be suspect. Also inspect the entry door seals and any other fitting or component attached to the sidewall that is at the same level or higher than the window.
Water leaks can be extremely difficult to find and need to be caught early to avoid a costly repair. Search meticulously and thoroughly and you should find it. A last resort is to locate a service shop with an ultrasound leak detector.
Broken Anode
Dear RV Doctor:
When I was trying to remove the anode rod from an Atwood water heater, the plug and about two inches of the anode came out, but the rest of the anode remained wedged in the opening. There isn’t room to grab onto the piece that’s left. Is it advisable to just tap the remaining portion into the tank? Advice would be appreciated.
Larry Altshuler, Santa Barbara, California
Larry, I see no harm in simply tapping it back into the tank. It’s totally submerged when the heater is filled with water anyway. The only time a problem may occur is when you annually drain and flush the water heater. (You are doing that, correct?) It’s possible for the piece to slip into the opening while the heater is draining. Just be sure to check the new anode every year, but there should be no accelerated deterioration of the new rod with the older one sitting on the bottom of the tank. If the water quality is substantially reduced in the coming years, perhaps then I would replace the entire water heater or the inner tank. Oh, don’t forget you’ll need a new pipe plug now.
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