Skimpy Molding
Dear RV Doctor:
One of the most troublesome things I have found to maintain are the exterior moldings that are used to seal the seams along the edges of the motorhome siding. Many times, only the smallest portion of the siding is covered by this molding, and as we know, the severe movement of all parts of an RV can allow the siding to become dislodged from under the molding. Are there aftermarket moldings that allow for more coverage of the siding? I have an RV where only ¼-inch of the siding was covered, and after road trips and movement of the siding due to expansion/contraction from the sun, etc., the siding is now unsecure and subject to water infiltration from rain. Why do manufacturers seem to skimp on such a vital piece of moisture protection? I regularly reapply sealants, but if the molding isn’t sufficiently large enough to overcome normal movements of the siding, what suggestions do you have for remedying this dilemma?
Eddie Robinson, Smyrna, Delaware
Eddie, I hear you; I’ve seen your exact problem on many RVs over the years, but not so much lately as most coaches now have radiused corner sections. Basically, it is due to poor installation of the sidewall skin and/or the roofing. The sidewall skin should extend fully to the top of the roof before the roof material is applied. The roofing then folds over the edge and is stapled or secured through the sidewall material and into the sidewall itself. If the installers cut the sidewall material too short, the overlapping roof material won’t quite cover the top of the sidewall skin. If they cut the sidewall and the roof covering too short, nothing will protect that top edge. Some edge moldings used in the past extended down the sidewall only a short distance. And as you noticed, wracking of the coach along with temperature changes result in the loose skin and what amounts to an open funnel for rainwater.
The only fix I can suggest, short of replacing the siding, is to install another piece of flat molding and position it just below and tight up against the existing molding. Prior to securing, re-staple the sidewall skin to the sidewall structure; it’s okay even if the staples show, since the new flat molding should be at least ¾-inch or 1-inch wide. Be sure to use a butyl caulk strip behind the new molding piece. If you get a matching insert, you probably won’t notice the double molding once it’s installed.
Sending Unit Surgery
Dear RV Doctor:
I have a 1989 Triple E Regency motorhome with a Chevy 454 engine. The gas gauge does not work, and I have been told the sending unit requires repair. The problem is that apparently the gas tank has to be removed, and no one in our town will do that. One mechanic wants to take out the bed and the water tank in the back, and go through the floor to find the sensor! Do you think this is okay to do, or is this mechanic crazy?
Cathy Cote, Sault St. Marie, Ontario, Canada
Cathy, indeed the fuel tank probably needs to be dropped, or at least partially removed in order to replace the sending unit. But I’m surprised by your mechanic. His suggestion can be likened to going through the mouth to take out the appendix! Granted, it’s a cumbersome job, but most RV repair centers should be properly equipped with a portable fuel pump and container to remove the fuel, drop the tank, replace the sender, reinstall the tank, and pump your fuel back in. It’s really not that difficult unless some structural members need to be removed first. Even in that case, it’s just part of the process.
Now, that being said, some motorhomes have an access hole under the carpet, right on top of the sending unit. I’m not sure whether your coach has such an access, but I would press and feel all around the carpeting in that area of the RV, just over that fuel container, to try to detect any type of cover plate or mounting screws. The carpet pad and/or the carpeting may be too thick, but it’s worth a try. In any event, any qualified RV service shop should be able to perform the replacement. They also should be able to verify that the sending unit is faulty before going to that extreme.
You might want to call Triple E’s customer service department first and ask whether the tank must be removed or whether there is an access in the floor. Triple E will more than likely have a list of factory-approved repair shops as well. It is important to disconnect the sender wire at the gas tank float unit, so as to perform the test to determine whether it’s the sender, the gauge, or a wiring problem. Ordinarily, a special tool is employed to determine just exactly what the problem is in this particular system, which requires the expertise of a qualified technician.
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