LP Leak At Range
Dear RV Doctor:
I have an LP-gas leak around one of the compression fittings going to the stove/oven. I have done everything I can think of to fix it. Can I use some high-temp silicone around the tubing on the outside to stop the leak?
Bob Enaiat, Via E-Mail
You do not want to use silicone; it will not elminate an LP-gas leak. In fact, no sealants are permitted at all on LP-gas flare fittings or compression fittings. Sealants are only applied to the male threads of pipe fittings, and, most certainly, not silicone. If the compression ring inside the fitting was put on too tightly, it’s possible that the integrity of that fitting has been compromised. I suspect that’s what happened in your instance. Or perhaps the threads on either portion of the fitting are stripped. In all cases of leaking gas fittings, it is recommended to simply replace the fitting in question. And be sure to perform (or have performed) a full coach timed pressure drop test to ensure there are no additional LP-gas leaks in the coach. Do not use the appliance until the entire motorhome is deemed leak-free.
Name That Tune
Dear RV Doctor:
I have replaced the ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) in my Type A motorhome, and the new one hums when the inverter is on. Do you know why?
Dennis Ekdahl, F360096, Santa Maria, California
Without knowing the brand or type of inverter you have, and without taking some crucial electrical measurements, it may be difficult to pinpoint the actual cause from afar. But my immediate thought is that it has something to do with the white neutral conductor at the connection behind the ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) receptacle. This, of course, is assuming no modifications were made to the wiring at the inverter itself. None would have been required if it was installed correctly to begin with.
All GFCIs have a set of contact terminals labeled “Line” and another set labeled “Load.” The black and white wires (hot and neutral) from both the line and the load must be connected to the correct terminals on the GFCI. If, for instance, the hot wire is connected to the “Line” terminal, but the neutral wire is connected to the “Load” terminal, it will confuse the GFCI. The main purpose of the GFCI is to monitor the balance of that circuit between the black and white conductors. Should the wiring be connected wrong, the hot or the neutral at the GFCI may render it inoperable, but not to the point of actually causing it to trip. Nor will it likely trip the circuit breaker for that circuit.
With the GFCI removed from the receptacle box, there should be two sets of Romex conductors located in the makeup box. The black and white wires from each must be kept relevant to each other. In other words, the same pair of black and white conductors must attach to the correct (line or load) terminals on the GFCI. With the motorhome plugged in, the “line” set will be energized; the “load” set is everything downstream of the GFCI and will not be hot when the GFCI is disconnected. There is a remote chance the new GFCI is faulty, but odds are it is simply a case of incorrect wiring. I’ve actually seen all the white wires bundled into one wire nut behind the GFCI — a no-no for GFCI wiring.
It is best to have a professional RV service technician take a look at this if you are unfamiliar with working on a live circuit. I certainly don’t recommend it. The circuit must be energized at a certain point in order to differentiate between the line (hot) and the load (not hot) sets of wires at the GFCI. I know this may sound a bit confusing, but a professional electrical tech with an accurate multimeter will be able to quickly discern the problem with a few simple measurements.
Microwave Will Not Operate
Dear RV Doctor:
I have a 2004 Apollo Half Time microwave oven in my Georgie Boy Landau motorhome that has quit working. After I input the time for cooking, I press the start button, but the microwave doesn’t start. What could be the problem? Does the microwave have a motor that runs it?
Jim Sullivan, Rockport, Texas
Unfortunately, when it comes to microwave ovens, specialty diagnostic equipment is required. Since a microwave oven is a “special” appliance of sorts, repair isn’t even taught at RV technician schools. In warranty cases, the microwave is simply replaced. I’m not aware of any RV service center that actually troubleshoots and repairs microwave ovens. My opinion is that you should consider this a “costs less to replace than repair” situation.
However, if you are determined to have the microwave oven repaired, I’d recommend an Internet search for the closest servicing center for the Half Time brand and see whether they can help. I’m sure they exist, just not within the RV realm, in most cases.
I wish I had better news, but other than verifying the incoming voltage, it’s one of those rare items that do not fall within the scope of RV repair.
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