Seeping Shower Stall
Dear RV Doctor:
We have a 2007 Damon Daybreak with a “hex” shower stall that is leaking. The leak is coming from somewhere in the glass section framing or where the shower sides, glass, and plastic connect to the bottom section. The water appears at the bottom of the glass framing where it connects to the plastic shower stall, which is nearly inaccessible. I spread half a tube of silicone caulk over and through the connection points on the inside, but it is still leaking. Would it be beneficial and manageable for me to take the framing out and really caulk the areas?
John Webber, Schenectady, New York
It’s tough to recommend a repair path without actually looking at the shower in question, but in past experiences with single-sided enclosures, it has always proven best to disassemble; clean off the old sealant; and reassemble with new sealant.
One troubling aspect with this method is that some manufacturers install the shower enclosure before attaching other cabinetry in the lavatory, making it nearly impossible to disassemble and reassemble after the fact. Before attempting any repair yourself, I would suggest seeking out a Damon (now referred to as Thor Motor Coach) dealer near you. It may even be worth a day trip to find one. Perhaps Damon issued a service bulletin if this problem was chronic. A selling dealer should have received that information. And just perhaps a service rep has seen this symptom before and will know exactly where the leak is originating. It certainly doesn’t hurt to ask.
One thing you might try is to saturate the enclosure in sections, allowing the water to pour down only one section at a time, starting at the bottom. That way, you are more likely to identify the actual source of the leak. My guess is that it is coming out of the enclosure at the very bottom, so it probably doesn’t matter where it actually enters. I’m thinking the seal under the bottom frame is where the leak originates. If there is any “play” in that bottom frame member, perhaps it would be possible to carefully pry it up a fraction of an inch and squirt some silicone under the frame member all the way around. Again, without seeing it firsthand, it’s difficult to diagnose.
A long shot is that the enclosure itself is cracked, allowing the water to escape. This is unlikely unless the enclosure was installed under stress. It also could happen if the factory secured a cabinet up against the enclosure after it was installed. Stressing the enclosure at any time after the initial installation can cause the plastic to flex enough to break the sealant.
I hope some of these suggestions will help. Plus, our readers may have some ideas as well.
Water, Water, Everywhere!
Dear RV Doctor:
When I run the water pump on my 2007 motorhome, water runs out of the area where the water heater is located. After inspection, I found water coming out of the water heater’s check valve. I spoke to a friend, and he advised me that I just needed to replace the pressure and temperature (P&T) valve in my water heater. I have owned this unit for about six months and never had this problem when I first purchased it. So, is it as simple as just replacing the P&T valve or check valve in my water heater? What would have caused this valve to go out? I have noticed whenever the water pump is on, water just streams from my water heater. I am not very mechanical, but I’m tired of my wife yelling at me because she does not have any hot water!
Kevin Clark, Glendale, Arizona
You mentioned both the check valve and the P&T valve on the water heater. You realize these are two different components, right? The location where you see water streaming from the heater is going to be the clue as to which valve is leaking.
The P&T valve is located on the exterior of the water heater, behind the access door on the outside of the motorhome. If water is profusely emanating from the P&T valve, it may need to be replaced. If it just drips a small amount but at a constant rate, try opening and then snapping shut the lever on the P&T valve a couple of times. Oftentimes, tank residue or mineral deposits can prevent the valve from fully seating. It’s best to do this only when the water in the tank has cooled, the shore water and the pump have been turned off, and pressure in the water line has been bled off by opening a faucet. It is normal for the P&T valve to seep a little during the actual heating cycle, but certainly not enough to keep the water pump running. Also, while you’re on the outside of the water heater, be sure the drain plug is not leaking.
The check valves (you may have two), however, are located on the back of the water heater, accessed from inside the motorhome. It’s possible a fitting or one of the check valves may have ruptured, cracked, or otherwise been rendered faulty. Some of the less expensive, plastic check valves fail at a higher rate than the brass valves. A close inspection of all the fittings and connections will reveal the location of the culprit.
I’m hopeful it’s just a stuck P&T valve, but don’t overlook the fact that it could be leaking from any component at the back of the heater as well. A worst-case scenario would be a ruptured inner tank, but that is unlikely on a newer motorhome.
After replacing the defective component, be sure to have the fresh water distribution system leak-tested and the air cushion re-established on top of the water in the heater. Let me know if you need directions as to how to perform that procedure. If the leak is internal to the motorhome, the problem needs to be fixed and the area dried out before permanent damage to the motorhome occurs.
Winterizing The Ice Maker
Dear RV Doctor:
How do I winterize my ice maker? I have a Norcold refrigerator in a Fleetwood Providence.
Larry Rose, Golden, Colorado
Here are the steps, as recommended by Norcold:
To winterize the water valve and water line:
1. Shut off RV water supply to the ice maker.
2. Raise and lock shutoff arm in OFF position.
3. Disconnect the water inlet adapter from water valve.
4. Disconnect the ice maker water line from water valve.
NOTE: The water line heater wire must be rewrapped properly around the water valve body when the water line is reconnected to the water valve. Also, be sure to drain any residual water from the line once you disconnect it.
Here’s an additional tip I recommend for owners of ice makers when the incoming water connection is located high up on the rear of the refrigerator. In some instances, it’s virtually impossible to perform step #4 above without partially removing the refrigerator. Simply install an in-line, 1/4-inch compression-type shutoff valve in the ice maker tubing running up the rear of the refrigerator cabinet at a location that is easily accessed through the lower exterior refrigerator vent. In this manner, shutting off the valve and disconnecting the tubing going up to the ice maker will drain residual water in the tubing line going up to the inlet valve and still provide a means of shutting off the line when inducing RV antifreeze up to that point.
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