Graphic Description
Dear RV Doctor:
I recently purchased a 1985 motorhome that has a weathered exterior. It has a lot of vinyl graphics that are baked on, cracked, and peeling. I would like to remove the graphics to clean up the appearance but have yet to find anything that helps release the bond of the decals. The most commonly recommended method is to use a heat gun, but due to the brittleness of the graphics and the checking, this is not an easy task. Could you recommend an easier method? Maybe a spray or brush-on solution that would penetrate and release the bond so I can use a plastic scraper. Also, what would you recommend for adhesive remover?
Randy Cruse, Hayden, Idaho
I, too, recommend using a heat gun and a plastic scraper. Yes, it can be difficult, but once you get going, it may go more smoothly than you think. It is vital that the plastic scraper be yellow or white in color. Evidently, the type of plastic used to make the scraper is important, as is the amount of heat you apply. The type of material used for the exterior surface is another factor that determines how easily the old graphics can be removed. The key is to eliminate as much of the old decals and adhesive as possible.
3M produces an assortment of graphic removal kits that might be helpful. Be sure to test any decal removal product on a small portion of the graphics first. A single solution may not be suitable for all surfaces and types of adhesives. You may find that it’s necessary to apply two coats of the remover when working on stubborn, baked-on decals. If the exterior surface is fiberglass, once the graphics and adhesive have been removed, use Protect All’s Fiberglass Oxidation Remover and Color Restorer (www.protectall.com; 800-322-4491), then a layer of wax containing carnauba. Then buff to a final gloss finish. It’s certainly time-consuming, but doable in most cases. Hope this helps.
Adapting Well
Dear RV Doctor:
My motorhome has a 30-amp power cord. Can I plug into 50-amp service for a weekend trip? We will not be running the air conditioners or any portable heaters. Would I do any damage to my RV’s electrical system? I do have an adapter plug to go from 30 amps to 50 amps.
Bob Hubert, Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
Dear RV Doctor:
In the past I had to use my 50-amp-to-30-amp adapter to hook up my 30-amp motorhome to the 50-amp shore power post. Is it okay to do this for extended stays — say, a week at a time?
Larry G., Mesquite, Texas
In both instances you should experience no ill effects when connecting the 30-amp plug to a 50-amp power supply with an adequate adapter. You’ll be able to utilize all components of the 120-volt-AC system as usual. Now, if you had a 50-amp shoreline cord and were plugging into 30-amp service, that’s when you’d be limited as to what devices you could operate at one time. The 50-amp service is simply two legs of 120 volts AC with 50 amps available on each leg. Both motorhomes are configured and limited to 30 amps, but at that same 120 volts. The adapter will transfer only one leg of the electricity.
Pigtail adapters are not all created equal, so just be sure to use a high-quality adapter and periodically check it for overheating. It is unlikely that a good adapter will overheat, but I’m a stickler for safety. It won’t hurt to be a little overly cautious by checking it periodically. But, electrically, you’ll both be fine, since only one leg of the 50-amp circuit will be used. The 30-amp main breaker inside the RV will protect the motorhome and its branch circuits.
Tank You Very Much
Dear RV Doctor:
I recently purchased a preowned motorhome. Unfortunately, not much information came with the coach. The black water holding tank monitor panel shows it is filling faster than I think it should. When I looked at the holding tank, I noticed one end was up around four inches higher than the other end. Could this be the cause? Should the tank be level, or, if not, what is the correct difference from end to end?
Orley Matson, Cloverdale, Ohio
Waste holding tanks come in many shapes and sizes. Rare is the holding tank that is symmetrical or even rectangular in shape. Some are constructed with varying depth levels; some even have molded offsets to accommodate a specific installation location, such as around or between frame members. This may be what you saw during your inspection. However, they are all constructed with a bottom that should slope toward the tank outlet fitting.
Since water (and waste) will seek its own level, the important surface to look at is the top-most water level. It should be relatively level with the coach. However, the level sensors for the monitor panel must be installed correctly, proportionately, and synched with the actual level of the contents as the tank fills. Oftentimes this is a problem with an odd-shaped or asymmetrical holding tank. Also, the solid waste (black) holding tank may have a sink draining into it, as is permissible. It’s possible your quick-filling situation is real and may be attributed to another drain filling the tank besides just the toilet.
Here’s a quick way to check. Empty, flush, and clean the black tank. With a clear adapter in the sewer hose, leave the black tank termination valve open and run water from each sink, one at a time, while viewing the clear fitting. If you see water draining through the black tank, you’ll know that particular sink also drains into the toilet tank. I’m not a big fan of such designs, but modifying your habits and knowing you’ll have to evacuate more often is not a huge sacrifice for RV ownership, especially if you like your particular floor plan.
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