Lubrication And Solar Charging
Dear RV Doctor:
I’m looking for the name of a lubricant that won’t attract dust. Also, how do I determine whether the solar panels on my motorhome roof are working and whether there is a charge controller?
Mark Rousso, Lake City, Minnesota
I’m not sure which type of lubricant you are asking about, but there are a few that come to mind. I like Boeshield T-9 for general lubrication of metal components that slide, glide, twist, swivel, or turn. If you’re looking for a lube for slideout mechanisms, I recommend Protect All, as that application calls for a dry lube. For lubricating rubber gaskets and seals in toilets, water pumps, waste termination valves, etc., I use Dow Corning 111 Valve Lubricant and Sealant. If what you’re seeking involves some other application, let me know and I’ll see if I can dig up some other lubricants for you.
As far as solar battery charging, if you have a charge controller for your solar panels, there will be a display panel inside the RV as well as the controller itself. The wall panel will include a digital display that details the voltage, the amperage or the wattage being produced, as well as the charge voltage and amperage going into the battery bank. If you do not have such a display panel, you probably do not have a multistage charge controller. To be sure, a closer inspection would be necessary. The sophisticated controllers are usually mounted in a safe, dry location. If the solar charging system on your motorhome came from the factory, you could contact them, though the literature for all the components installed on the coach should have been included in the owners manual.
RV Batteries And Cold Weather
Dear RV Doctor:
I have a 38-foot gas-powered Type A motorhome. In a recent article, you suggested to remove the house batteries during winter storage. If the batteries are left in the motorhome, I know not to leave the motorhome plugged in during long months of winter storage so that the electrolyte in the batteries doesn’t boil off. But if I remove the batteries, then I cannot exercise the generator every month to prevent varnish from forming in the fuel system and/or excess moisture from forming in the generator windings. So, I just make sure the chassis and house batteries are topped off with distilled water (if necessary) and that the terminals are tight, clean, and dry. Then once a month I run the engine up to normal temperature and run the generator with a load. I wish I could take out the batteries for storage during the winter, but not if I have to exercise the motor and generator once a month. I enjoy your articles and videos!
Dick Kashdin, Williamsville, New York
Your method is perfectly okay, as long as the motorhome doesn’t have to endure continuous exposure to subfreezing or subzero temperatures while the batteries are in a discharged state. Be sure to charge fully all the batteries that are in the motorhome, especially after you add water to the electrolyte. In a fully charged wet-cell battery, the water content has been reduced to its minimum while the sulphuric acid content is maximized, so there’s less chance of the water portion freezing. Tests have shown that a fully charged wet-cell battery will freeze only if the temperature plummets to 55 degrees below zero Fahrenheit. A discharged wet-cell battery may have the water portion of the electrolyte begin to freeze at only minus-20 degrees. So, a charged battery will have less chance of freezing. Quality RV deep-cycle batteries are very expensive, so if you have reason to believe that the RV would be exposed to several consecutive days of below-zero temperatures, I’d remove the batteries and forego exercising the engine and generator until a later date.
But if you wish to keep the batteries in the motorhome during the winter months so you can exercise the generator, your best bet is to keep the coach plugged into shore power and invest in a sophisticated, multi-step, dedicated battery charger that will effectively monitor the charging voltage and amperage based on the temperature of the electrolyte. That’s the only method I can recommend that will ensure the battery bank will not be harmed by excessive current, voltage, or temperature. To read about one that I’ve tested and evaluated, and one that can be synchronized for any type of battery bank, check out the article posted here: www.rvdoctor.com/2011/03/product-spotlight-xantrex-truecharge2.html.
Air Brake Quandary
Dear RV Doctor:
I have a 1994 Monaco Dynasty and have a question about my air brakes. I have never been satisfied with the performance of the brakes. They have been taken apart and adjusted, but they still don’t operate very well. I expect that I could almost lock up the tires during an emergency stop, but sometimes I wonder whether I will be able to stop the motorhome without hitting someone. The air pressure usually runs between 100 and 110 psi on the road. Is there any adjustment on the brake pedal itself or another adjustment that could help? My brakes are in new condition, according to the technician who worked on them.
Wayne Hamilton, Bow, Washington
Working on air brakes at any maintenance facility requires specific training and comprehensive certifications. Trust such work or maintenance only to someone who has an “Air Brake Certificate.” It also takes specialty equipment (such as a Hunter machine), which most commercial truck shops employ. Common components that have a direct effect on the brake system include the air pressure compressor, valves, and plumbing lines throughout. I suggest you seek out the services of a professional truck shop to test and adjust the air brake system on your Dynasty. Yes, some adjustments are possible, but they should not be attempted by the do-it-yourselfer.
My friend and colleague Walter Cannon at the RV Safety & Education Foundation (RVSEF) is fond of saying, “Stopping is the most important thing a coach owner will do!” We both encourage you to find a good truck shop near you. Also check out RVSEF’s “Understanding and Testing Your Motorhome Air Brakes” DVD. It details how to perform the three important tests for any motorhome equipped with air brakes. Visit www.rvsafety.com/products-page/understanding-testing-your-motorhome-air-brakes-dvd/ to find out more about this video.
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