V-10 Temperature
We purchased our 2008 Itasca 32H Sunrise in September 2007. It is built on a 2007 Ford chassis with a V-10 engine, and it has been driven 47,800 miles. On five different occasions during the past 12 months, the water temperature gauge has risen toward or into the red zone. The first time we were alerted to this problem was when the motorhome went into the “limp home” mode. The overheating problem occurs whether we are towing our Subaru Forester or not, but it typically happens during long hill pulls with the cruise control on and after the transmission has downshifted and the rpm is in the 4,500 to 5,000 range. I have placed a mark on the temperature gauge at “normal” so it is easy for me to notice any rise. The temperature will elevate from normal to hot in approximately two minutes. After I pull off the road and wait for about two minutes, the temperature reading quickly will return to normal. I have not detected any leaks or steam overflow when this occurs.
At one point we took our motorhome to San Tan Ford in Gilbert, Arizona, to try to resolve this problem. They found that Ford had issued Technical Service Bulletin 06-21-15, so they installed a new thermostat and crossover tube. On our drive back home, towing the Subaru and with the air conditioner on, as we reached a long hill climb at an altitude of approximately 4,000 feet and an outside temperature of around 68 to 70 degrees, the water temperature went from normal to about nine on a one to 10 scale. Again, the temperature rise took less than two minutes. I disengaged the cruise control and pulled over to the side of the road. By then the temperature gauge was at the pegged end of the red zone. Within a short time, the temperature gauge quickly returned to normal and we proceeded on home without any reoccurrence.
On several occasions last summer the air conditioner would stop blowing cold air and would blow warm air at lesser volume. It felt like an air vane had changed position or had closed. We took the motorhome to Kayser Ford in Madison, Wisconsin. They evacuated the system and replaced the thermal cycling switch assembly. (A computer readout indicated “Diagnosis – L,” so they replaced the air conditioner clutch switch assembly and thermostat.) So far, that problem has been solved, but I mention it just in case it has any correlation with the previous overheating water temperature problem.
The main points are that this all began in the past 12 months; the temperature rises quickly; and the temperature returns to normal very quickly. I mention all this hoping that you or some of your readers who may have had a similar experience have found a solution.
I really enjoy your most helpful articles, and thanks for being there for all of us.
Byron McKean, F289490
Payson, Arizona
This is a tough one to diagnose remotely. Unless you’re a well-equipped mechanic, you’ll need to visit a good shop that’s experienced with the Ford chassis.
The first thing you should do is verify that the fan clutch is engaging. You should hear a “roaring” sound when the fan clutch engages the fan to full speed as the engine temperature begins to rise above the thermostatic control. A bad fan speed clutch will exhibit the same symptoms you describe.
Also, make sure your head gaskets are not leaking exhaust gases into the coolant. Next, check the radiator’s core temperature — top, middle, bottom, and side to side. You also will need to ascertain what the transmission fluid temperature is when the overheating issue occurs. It’s also possible, albeit remote, that the water pump is having an issue or its drive belt is slipping.
Goofy Gauge
I own an old Foretravel diesel pusher in which the fuel gauge registers half-full when filled up. What could be causing this to happen?
Roy Lee White Jr., F117351
Deer Park, Texas
There could be several reasons why the gauge reads half-full when the tank is topped off. It could have a bad ground. If there’s too much resistance in the power feed, it may not be receiving sufficient voltage. It’s also possible that the arm on the fuel level float could be restricted and so it is not able to float on top of the fuel.
Although you didn’t include the age of your “old” diesel pusher, I’d say that the float has been compromised or damaged in some way and is not operating properly, thus giving an incorrect reading. Start by checking the electrical connections and voltage for the gauge and the sending unit. You may have to drop your fuel tank and remove the sending unit. Be sure to use all proper safety measures when dealing with draining and storing the diesel fuel. If the circuitry is okay, then the problem is most likely the float.
On many older Foretravel motorhomes, the sending unit (Centroid) is serviceable without removing the fuel tank. You may wish to contact Foretravel (800-955-6226) for diagnostic help relevant to your motorhome.
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