Relocate A Smoke Alarm?
Dear RV Doctor:
We live in our unit full-time. The smoke alarm in our motorhome is so sensitive that I cannot cook a meal without it going off. I always turn on the exhaust vent over the stove and open the ceiling vent. Even steam makes it go off! It does help when I open the door, but in cold weather that isn’t always an option. Last night I browned four pieces of Texas toast in the oven. When I opened the oven after 3 minutes to turn over the toast, the alarm sounded. Any suggestions?
Johnna Bryant, Dayton, Washington
My first thought is to question the age of the smoke alarm. I assume that you’ve verified that it is indeed the smoke alarm that is going off and not the carbon monoxide alarm or propane alarm. Any RV safety-monitoring device (all those mentioned) equipped with a sensing or an optical unit should be replaced about every five or six years as a general matter of proactive preventive maintenance. The sensors can become “insensitive” and react strangely, or simply become contaminated over time.
First, check the expiration date on the device. You may have to remove the plastic cover to find it, but they all should have a date stamp, sticker, or label with an expiration date or a “Replace by” date. If your smoke alarm is less than five years old, try replacing the batteries. If it is a hardwired unit, verify that the incoming DC voltage is adequate. A low-voltage situation can cause false alarms or perhaps a warning alarm for low battery voltage. If your current smoke alarm is an ion-type, you might want to replace it with a photoelectric or optical smoke alarm, which is less prone to false alarms. Also, you might try relocating the alarm, still within the galley area, but perhaps closer to the entry door. Convection airflow inside a motorhome can possibly cause a redirection of just enough airborne matter to trigger the alarm. I hope you also have a smoke alarm located in the bedroom.
Refueling Difficulty
Dear RV Doctor:
We have a 1983 Type C motorhome with a Ford 460-cid engine. Ever since we purchased it, we have had trouble filling the gas tank. We can fill it until it is approximately 0ne-quarter full and then the pump stops and will continue to shut off as we try to complete the fill-up. During a recent trip to the fuel station, it took about 45 minutes to fill it up, which was very frustrating. The motorhome has two tanks with a switch under the dashboard for front and rear. Has anyone else experienced this problem? Perhaps you have some suggestions or maybe a solution?
Tasha, Salinas, California
I’ve run across a few of the older Type C motorhomes with two fuel tanks that have been found to have a venting problem. Either the fill vent was crushed during the installation or a subsequent reinstallation, or it was routed incorrectly. A totally crushed vent usually can be checked by blowing low air pressure down the tube (vent tube only) at the fill assembly and then listening for the air entering the tank. The tank should be below half full when attempting this to avoid gas from blowing back out the fill assembly.
Another possibility is that fuel has entered the vent tube and is blocking the airflow passage. This is what I think may be causing your problem, since you can fill the tank partway before the fuel begins to back up and shut off the pump. The vent tube should be routed in a manner that prohibits fuel from entering it. It may be possible to inspect the vent with mirrors or by removing some components, but it’s likely that the fuel tank will have to be dropped, partially or completely, in order to rectify this condition. It’s possible there is a low spot in the rubber tube connecting the tank vent to the filler that has fuel in it. This would block the air from venting to the filler. It certainly warrants a closer look by an RV service technician.
Refilling The Water Heater
Dear RV Doctor:
Is it okay to run the water heater out of hot water every time I shower? Another question: should I get some type of cover for my roof air conditioner for the winter? I’m also curious about installing bigger fuses, because I keep popping breakers while running space heaters. I’m a first-time owner and I’m stuck up here in the freezing cold. Help!
Dalton Bell, Watford City, North Dakota
It does no harm to run the water heater out of hot water. In fact, I’m guessing you’re not alone in that situation. As you begin using the hot water in the tank, it automatically refills with cold water as the tank empties, provided the pump is on or you are hooked up to city water. If the heater runs on propane, the burner will come on and begin heating the incoming cold water. Unfortunately, the new water won’t begin to become hot until you turn off the water flow and allow the heater time to catch up. Until then, the heater will simply pass the cold water through to the faucets. Your options are to replace the existing heater with a larger water heater or consider a tankless water heater that supplies unlimited hot water.
I’m an advocate of using a total coach cover to protect the RV during the winter or, at the very least, a cover for the air conditioner. If you opt for a total coach cover, be sure it will not scratch or mark the motorhome’s sides or roofing. It should be breathable as well.
Never install larger fuses or breakers than what the circuit wiring is designed to use. Is the factory-installed furnace in your motorhome not operating properly? You can add another furnace if there’s room to install a second unit, or add an electrical heating option to the existing propane furnace. Check out the Cheap Heat electric forced-air heating system from RV Comfort Systems (www.rvcomfortsystems.com). This product is a viable option to consider if you’re a serious RVer. I’m not a fan of portable space heaters, for various safety reasons.
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