LaPalma Information
Is there a Web site I can visit to purchase an owners manual for a 2006 Monaco LaPalma diesel pusher?
John Golden, F196702
St. Augustine, Florida
To find an owners manual for a 2006 LaPalma diesel pusher, call Navistar RV’s parts department at (877) 466-6226 (press #2 at the first prompt). Although the following information won’t help in your situation, others may be interested to know that owners manuals for 2008 through 2012 model-year Monaco and Holiday Rambler motorhomes are available in pdf format at www.monacocoach.com and at www.holidayrambler.com, respectively. From the home page of either site, click on the “Service” link. Once on the Service page, hover over the “Manuals” link and select “Owner’s Manuals” from the drop-down list.
Motorhome Mileage And Maintenance
My wife and I are new to the RV world and purchased a 2005 Sightseer with a Ford V-10 engine. We recently got back from our first trip and found that the average fuel economy was 5.7 mpg. We were towing a Honda Pilot, but I thought we would get a little better mileage than that, maybe near 10 mpg. Does this seem right to you, or should I be looking for something wrong with the motorhome?
Andy Seidel
Tarpon Springs, Florida
Since you’re new to RVing, your lower-than-expected fuel mileage may be an indication that you need to modify your driving habits. (I saw the same thing happen to my son the first time he drove our motorhome.) You are moving a lot of weight that you’re not used to; therefore, you need to retrain your throttle foot.
The first rule is to slow down. Several years ago, FMC published an article titled “MPG” (September 2009, page 40) that provided suggestions about how to improve fuel mileage. Slowing from 70-75 mph to 55 mph can add a mile or two to each gallon. When you’re accelerating from a stop, don’t floor the gas pedal; feather it. Slowly build up to your cruising speed instead of trying to get there as quickly as possible. When approaching a stoplight or stop sign, slow the motorhome down earlier and more gradually than you might when in a car.
The second rule is to check your tire pressures. Make sure the psi is what the tire manufacturer’s chart says it’s supposed to be. Unless you’ve had your motorhome weighed by the Recreation Vehicle Safety & Education Foundation (RVSEF) or a similar organization and were provided inflation pressures based on the motorhome’s actual tire loads, the tire pressures should be no less than the inflation shown on the vehicle’s certification label or tire placard that provides information on maximum axle loads and minimum tire pressure numbers.
The third rule is to weigh your motorhome. Don’t overload it! Put your coach on a diet. Weight requires horsepower to move it, and more horsepower requires more fuel. Don’t carry any more weight than you need to. (This reminds me of Lucy’s rocks in the movie The Long, Long Trailer.)
The fourth rule is to maintain your motorhome. Since you just bought your RV, you may not have done the following, so start fresh. Give the engine a major tune-up and replace all filters, fluids (engine oil, transmission fluid, coolant, etc.), and belt(s). Save the old fan belt just in case the new one breaks while traveling — a fan belt rarely breaks in your garage.
If you do not have the September 2009 issue of FMC, you can find the article online at www.fmcmagazine.com/back-issues/2009/september/162-mpg (log-in required). The information in the story may provide more insights about increasing your fuel mileage.
Wiring To Tow
I have a 2008 Four Winds Freedom Elite on a Sprinter chassis, and I want to flat tow a 2008 Suzuki SX4. There is a six-way connection on the Sprinter chassis. I need to know what wiring harness I should buy for towing.
Leonard Wood
Salisbury, North Carolina
All you need is the standard four-strand strip (two turn signals, taillights, and a ground), unless you wish to include a “hot” line to keep your Suzuki’s battery charged. Just follow the instructions that come with the connectors. If you wish to keep your Suzuki’s battery charged, you need to run a hot line from the coach’s battery to the Suzuki’s battery, and you’ll need to insert an in-line 20-amp fuse at each end of the hot line to avoid a short. In this case, you’ll need a length of six-wire cable for the connection.
Towing A Honda CR-V
I have a 2012 Honda CR-V with GPS that I tow behind my 2003 Pace Arrow motorhome. I have a Patriot supplemental braking system from Blue Ox. When I tow the CR-V, the battery runs down within 100 miles. I turn off the radio and the navigation system; I even pulled out the fuse for the radio. When the battery goes dead, the supplemental braking system becomes inoperable. I purchased a Tow Daddy AutoFUSE that I hoped would solve the problem. However, I discovered that the AutoFUSE will not work on my CR-V, because the fuse is not a mini fuse — it is a micro fuse. I called Tow Daddy several months ago and a representative told me their engineers were working on the solution to the connections problem. As of this date, I have not been able to solve the problem.
I sure would like to use the Patriot when I tow. When I drove from Hutchinson, Kansas, to Cincinnati, Ohio, and back, I had to jump the battery on the Honda every time I unhooked. At that time, I purchased a jump battery, but it’s not the best solution. Any help you can give me will be appreciated.
Elmer Denning, F316069
Littleton, Colorado
One easy fix would be to run a “hot” wire from the motorhome to the Honda’s battery. Route a 12-gauge wire (10-gauge wire would be even better) from your coach’s chassis battery to the Honda’s battery via the towing light cable (you may have to replace this cable with a new one, because you’re adding another circuit). Make sure to use in-line fuses at each end of this new circuit to protect both batteries in case of a short. If you don’t feel comfortable doing this task yourself, I’m sure a technician experienced with installing towing gear can assist you.
You also might check the “Towed-Vehicle Battery Charging” article that appeared on page 49 of the September 2012 issue of Family Motor Coaching. In this story you will find information about several different methods and products available to motorhome owners who are experiencing problems keeping their towed vehicle batteries charged when it’s being towed. If you no longer have the magazine, the article can be found in the Back Issues section at www.FMCmagazine.com (member log-in required).
If you’ve drawn down the car’s battery as often as you mentioned, you may need a new battery for the Honda. Ask for the most powerful battery available that will fit your CR-V.
Saturn Towing
I have a 2007 Saturn Vue that I have been flat-towing behind my Gulf Stream Tour Master motorhome since the car was new. Each time I tow the vehicle, I go through the proper procedure of starting the vehicle; putting it in drive and then neutral while letting it idle for three minutes; turning off the car; and removing the 30-amp fuse. I repeat the procedure every seven hours. This worked flawlessly up until two years ago when I started to have problems with the wheel bearings wearing out. In the past two years, the front bearings have had to be replaced two separate times on each side. Since the wheel bearings are sealed, the startup procedure should not affect the bearing issue, yet the wear issue occurs only after the vehicle has been towed. I do not exceed the recommended towing speed of 65 mph, and I have not changed the process of towing the vehicle. Have you heard of any other Saturn owners experiencing this problem, or do you have any idea what may be causing this to happen?
David. A. Yates, F383236
Beach Haven, New Jersey
I’ve talked to some very experienced mechanics who have told me that flat-towing puts more stress on steering and bearing components than driving the vehicle. (I’ve had to replace the ball joints and tie-rod ends on my towable with less than 50,000 miles on the odometer.) Perhaps this is why your wheel bearings are wearing so rapidly. You may want to verify that the vehicle’s wheel alignment and balance are correct.
“New” Motorhome Problems
We plan to purchase a 2007 Winnebago Sightseer 29R with 16,000 miles on it. We left a deposit expecting to pick the unit up after a Steer Safe stabilizer was installed. However, the motorhome was exposed to freezing temperatures, and the water heater froze and cracked. The dealer replaced the heater at its expense. When the technician installed the water heater, the water line from the engine (Winnebago uses engine heat as a third source of heat for the unit) was not tightened enough. While the motorhome was being driven to the Steer Safe factory, the line disconnected and the engine blew. The dealer replaced the engine, again at its expense. In addition, the ABS light came on, and it was determined that it could not be fixed. The dealer is currently waiting for a replacement ABS control unit.
If nothing else goes wrong and the ABS system is ready when we were told, we are considering going through with the purchase. However, we are worried about the water system being stressed by the freeze. What tests can be performed to help us catch any plumbing problems that could show up (freeze cracks that are currently too small to noticeably leak)? I am thinking of using higher-than-normal air pressure behind a filled water system. What pressure should the water system be able to handle?
What suggestions do you have about going through with the purchase?
Michael Lieberman, F371744
Las Cruces, New Mexico
I’m sorry to hear about the issues with your 2007 Winnebago. The good news is that you’re getting it all out of the way before taking delivery of the unit. Smart! Since your problem involves “house” issues, I asked the RV Doctor, Gary Bunzer, to give his thoughts on your plumbing system concerns. Below is his response:
“Freeze damage to the plumbing system is indeed a concern, and proper testing is paramount. The formal testing procedures performed at the factory during manufacture included pressurizing the system with air or water to 80 to 100 psi for 10 minutes. Typically, in the aftermarket, these same tests can be performed by a certified or master certified RV service technician using a specialty test device composed of a gauge, a manual shutoff valve, and a special adapter that keeps the city water inlet check valve depressed during the test. Since the check valve opens under incoming pressure (typically between 1 to 5 psi), testing through the city water entry could allow small leaks to go unnoticed unless the check valve is held open during the test.
“Air pressure is my preferred method in case leaks are abundant, because there is no mess to clean up. In your case, it really doesn’t matter, since the system probably still has water in it. The test fitting is attached directly to the city water inlet and subjected to 80 psi of clean compressed air. Remember, this is the fresh water system, so the technician should avoid using shop air, which could contain tool oils and contaminated moisture. In the not-so-distant past, fresh system plumbing was tested at 100 psi, but the NFPA Standards now call for only 80 psi. If you have an ice maker, it is probably best to isolate it from the system prior to testing in case the ice maker’s inlet valve is not designed for that much pressure. Check your owners manual to be sure.
“If no drop in pressure is noted after 10 minutes, the coach is deemed sound. In your case, however, a redundant test should be performed before and after a road test, just to be sure. You might suggest that the technician extend the test to 15 minutes. I’d also have some type of rider written into your purchase agreement in the event additional leaks develop later.
“It is very important to note that when the testing is complete, residual pressure must be released through a faucet or low-point drain to avoid damage to the check valve device. Backflow preventers/check valves are designed for directional flow, and pressure in the reverse direction may cause O-rings to be dislodged from their seats, resulting in a damaged product. It does take a technician with sufficient training to perform this test correctly.
“The test gauge can be inserted anywhere in the fresh water system, but it’s usually easiest at the city water inlet. If an alternative location is used and it is necessary to tap into the system to insert the test device, those fittings also will have to be tested under pressure with a soapy solution once the test device is removed and the system is fully pressurized and made functional. If you have any drop in pressure during the test, a leak exists somewhere. Soapy solution is applied to each fitting until the leak(s) are totally eliminated. If the leak is a crack somewhere along the length of the tubing, further troubleshooting will be necessary to locate the crack. A new test must be run after replacing any component until the test proves there are no leaks in the entire system.
“The important things to consider before having this done are whether your dealer has certified or master certified technicians on staff and whether they have the specialty test device needed to test the fresh water system? I would hope so.”
Power Plugs
My current motorhome shore power cord has a break in its outer shield where it exits the compartment. Can I replace the plug that connects to the motorhome with the same type of plug that connects to the RV power post?
William Tracey, F252140
FMCA Mail Forwarding
Any plug can be replaced, but only with a plug that has an identical pin configuration to the one that originally came with the motorhome. The plug can be found at a local RV dealership or RV supply store, and possibly at a home improvement store.
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