Jack Baldwin, F262031
Walnut Creek, California
Indeed, removing the old sealant, especially multiple layers of it, can be one heck of a job. I don’t envy you one bit. But I do have some good news. Consider using EternaBond RoofSeal tape. Going against all previous forms of conventional wisdom that advised old sealant should be removed prior to the application of new, EternaBond tape can be applied directly over the old sealant as long as it extends past the edges of the old sealant an inch or so. Plus, it can be used on any just about any roofing surface. As long as there are no silicone products around the horns, TV cables, vents, and so on, you can apply the EternaBond tape without removing the old sealant. Just be sure the surface is clean and dry. Also, be certain to place the tape exactly where you want it when applying, because it’s quite difficult to remove once it’s installed. Pressing or rolling the tape activates the micro-sealing properties, attaching it completely to the roofing surface, even over old sealants.
Wayward Wiring
Dear RV Doctor:
I have a 2001 motorhome and I would like to install a radio in it. I see the speaker wires in the cabinets for the radio, but I have no idea where the speakers should be mounted or where the speaker wires come out. Can you help me or send me in the right direction for some advice?
Scott Connorton, Aldergrove, British Columbia
Well, that’s a tough one, but it was very common for manufacturers back in those days to prewire the motorhome during construction in order to conceal the speaker wires, anticipating a future installation. It sounds as though your motorhome was wired in this fashion. The speaker locations could be in the ceiling or under a cabinet in the main living area of the motorhome. Some manufacturers would place a small decal in the area where the speakers would be mounted to alert the installer, who would then drill a small hole at that decal, fish the wires through, and mount each speaker. See whether you can find those little decals. If you cannot locate them, then perhaps a call to the manufacturer (if it is still in business) may provide guidance.
A Probing Question
Dear RV Doctor:
I read an article of yours about replacing faulty holding tank sensors with Miracle Probes from Horst Dynamics Inc. After the new probes are installed in a new hole, what keeps them from leaking? My older probes are spin-welded onto the tanks and cannot be removed, right? How do the new probes stay in place?
Stacy Seymore, Wells, Texas
You are right; the stock spin-welded probes cannot be removed. The new probes are installed through a 3/8-inch hole drilled next to the existing probes (be sure the tanks are empty before drilling). When you take the screw and the wire off the spin-welded probes, they will not leak; you don’t even need to reinstall the original screw. Once the new probes are inserted through the 3/8-inch hole, they will expand when tightened and remain in place with a leak-proof rubber seal. You simply use the existing wiring from the old probes and attach the wires to the new Miracle Probes at the correct level. Be sure to label the wires before removing them from the old probes.
Faulty Valve Or Thermostat?
Dear RV Doctor:
I took my motorhome out for the first time this year, and the pressure relief valve on the water heater opened up and began leaking water. Should I swap out the thermostat, replace the valve, 0r is there a way to remove the excess air?
Pete Sweazy
Rather than removing excess air from the water heater, ironically, what you need is more air in the tank. Here’s why. As any liquid is heated inside a sealed container, it expands. In order for the water to expand inside the heater, there must be space above the top level of the water in the tank, a cushion of air. I presume that the pressure and temperature (P&T) relief valve on your water heater opened because the heated water had no room to expand inside the tank. The P&T valve opened as designed and expelled the water.
Losing the air cushion occurs over time as oxygen is absorbed into the water, which eventually will lead to the tank becoming completely full. Although some water may drip from the P&T valve during heating cycles, it certainly shouldn’t amount to much. More than likely all you need to do is replenish that air cushion inside the heater tank. Adding air to the tank once a year usually is sufficient. This also might be a good time to flush out the water heater if you haven’t done so recently. Here are the steps to flush the heater and get that air pocket back in place.
1. Make sure all energy sources to the water heater are turned off and that the water inside has cooled.
2. Turn off all sources of pressure — the demand pump and the city water supply.
3. Drain the heater by opening the drain valve (or removing the plug). To aid in draining, open all the hot faucets throughout the motorhome.
4. With the tank nearly empty and water barely trickling out of the drain, carefully insert a straightened coat hanger into the drain opening to help break up any calcified deposits. If the heater is an Atwood model, take special care not to scrape the inner sides of the tank or damage may result.
5. Close all the hot faucets opened earlier and turn on the city water supply or the demand pump (the higher the pressure, the better).
6. Open the pressure and temperature (P&T) relief valve and allow water to gush from the drain opening as fresh water rushes in.
7. Allow the flushing to continue for five to 10 minutes. This will remove any stagnant water along with any residue on the bottom of the tank.
8. After flushing the tank, turn off the water source, reinstall the drain plug (or close the drain valve), and close the P&T valve by allowing the lever to snap shut.
9. Turn on a water pressure source once again and open all the hot water faucets inside the motorhome until water flows freely from all the hot faucets. This will automatically fill the water heater and eliminate air pockets in the distribution system.
10. Turn off the water source and all but one of the hot faucets. Then open the P&T relief valve once again to release any water at the top of the tank and to establish a cushion of air on top of the water. When water stops dripping from the P&T valve, close the last hot faucet inside the motorhome and the P&T valve. The heater is now prepared for use.
Typically, the P&T valve does not need to be replaced unless it continues to weep or expel water during every heating cycle after the air space has been re-established.
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