Tech Talk: October 2013

Battery Storage

I own a 2003 National RV motorhome. When I put it in storage for the winter, the batteries were fully charged. In the spring when I went to retrieve it, the batteries were dead. What can I do to prevent this? Any help would be appreciated.

Harold Steffee, F373648
Liberty, Missouri

When you return it to storage this fall, use a good battery charger with automatic shutoff capability and a trickle charge circuit. Connect it to your house batteries. If your motorhome’s electrical system has charging capability, simply plug it in. Other than that, you can look into a solar charging system to keep the batteries charged if shore power isn’t available at your storage location.

Warm Refrigerator

The refrigerator in our Type A motorhome is always plugged in to shore power while we’re at home, to keep things cool. We were getting ready for a weekend getaway, weather permitting, when my wife noticed that the inside temperature of the refrigerator was 60 degrees Fahrenheit. The freezer was cold and the items inside it were frozen. The temperature was set on 8, so I put it on 9 (the coldest setting) and let it cool overnight. The next morning the temperature inside the refrigerator was between 50 and 60 degrees. I changed the power source to gas to see whether that might make a difference. Thoughts?

Dean Tate, F282087
Dothan, Alabama

If the refrigerator will not cool adequately regardless of whether it is operating via electric or propane mode, then the cooling unit probably needs to be replaced. A partial blockage in coolant circulation or a loss of hydrogen or ammonia could cause a cooling unit to not operate at peak efficiency. The temperature in the cooling section will begin to elevate, since it is not distilling enough ammonia to satisfy both the freezer and the refrigerator cabinet.

Once you have the refrigerator working properly again, you might consider adding a small 12-volt-DC or solar-powered fan (available at RV supply stores) at the top of the cooling unit to increase air circulation around the cooling elements of the refrigerator. The fan increases evaporation efficiency in warmer climates.

Lexus Lowdown

I have a 2011 Lexus RX 350 with a Remco Lube Pump and Blue Ox tow bar. When I take a sharp corner at low speed, the Lexus’ front wheels sometimes oscillate from side to side, requiring me to come to a complete stop before continuing. This scared the heck out of me the first time it happened. The front tires show no sign of uneven wear, and the car drives normally when not towed. I did a quick fix by connecting a length of rubber rope to the emergency brake pedal, steering wheel, and center console, which allowed the wheel to turn but helped it come back to center when the turn was completed. The problem hasn’t returned since I did this. The RX has electric power steering, and I’m wondering whether this may be related to the problem, as it doesn’t have the same kind of resistance and self-centering action as a hydraulic system does. It has been suggested I have the alignment adjusted for more centering action, but I don’t really want to do this as it may increase tire wear and cause handling issues. Do you have any suggestions?

James Maggi, F271797
Pine City, Minnesota

As you might know, the only 2011-model-year Lexus approved for flat towing was the IS 250 with a manual transmission. I understand that you have modified yours to be flat towed as far as the drivetrain is concerned, but perhaps the steering design is another reason the company did not approve the RX 350 for flat towing. I’m not familiar with its steering design, but I suggest you take the car to a Lexus dealership and have it aligned. While in the shop, have the technicians make sure that every component in the steering system is fully functional and torqued to factory specifications. Request that they set the caster to the maximum that is permissible. This will not affect tire wear, but it will help with tracking. Beyond that, perhaps other members have experienced something similar and can offer information about how to resolve this problem.

Not-So-Clear Film

We have a 2003 38-foot Monaco Diplomat that we purchased in December 2002. Since then we have lived in it full-time and traveled a lot. We always keep it clean and well-maintained. But the dirty look of the 3M plastic film protecting the front cap detracts from its appearance. We had the film installed in California years ago. How can we remove it without damaging the motorhome’s finish?

Bob & Ann Boland, F323225
Pensacola, Florida

I spoke with a 3M tech support representative (800-362-3550). Most 3M protective films are UV-stable, but the product on your Monaco must not be UV-stable or it wouldn’t have discolored. If you’ve ever removed a large decal or accent stripe, the procedure will be very similar. If you don’t have a heat gun, you can use a hair dryer or wallpaper steamer to loosen the tape, then grab an edge and carefully peel off. Have patience, because it’s going to be a slow process. The technical support rep also suggested a 3M general-purpose adhesive cleaner to remove the sticky residue left behind after the tape is removed.

Cap Insulation

We own a 2003 National RV Tradewinds diesel pusher motorhome and travel south for the winter. Some nights can be very cool, and the front living area feels chilly. Recently, I found that the area behind the cabinets over the windshield (behind the fiberglass cap) has no insulation. Will installing insulation in this area cause any problems? Will adding insulation make the interior temperature of the motorhome more comfortable? I am not sure that there is a supplier of this type of service in our area.

David Cochran, F418690
Reed City, Michigan

I don’t believe that adding insulation would cause damage to your motorhome, unless you happen to puncture a water line, cut an electrical circuit, or poke a hole through the wall to the outside. I suggest using spray foam insulation. I used it to insulate the storage bins and to seal the undercarriage on my motorhome. For more information about this type of insulation, visit www.diynetwork.com/remodeling/spray-foam-insulation/index.html. The page will provide information about the practical uses of spray foam insulation, and how it should be applied. Most home improvement stores offer multiple brands of spray foam insulation. Let your fingers do the walking and either call a local store or check Web sites.

If that area has other equipment (TVs, stereo, etc.) or wiring running through it, spray foam may not be your best option, as the insulation can encase the wiring and make it difficult to work in the area should you desire. In that case, you may wish to use fiberglass insulation with insulating foil. This will work nearly as well as spray foam insulation, plus it easily can be removed should you need to work in those cabinets.

Wheel Cleaning

We have a 2004 Fleetwood motorhome with Alcoa aluminum wheels. I want to say they are the newer type of wheels, and they have a decal stating not to use abrasive cleaning products. The wheels are badly oxidized from the previous owner’s neglect and from being out in a field for a year exposed to all weather conditions. What products do you suggest to get the luster back?

Dean and Donna Tate, F282087
Dothan, Alabama

The May 2013 issue of Family Motor Coaching includes an article titled “Restoring The Shine To Aluminum Wheels” (page 46) that details how to clean and polish aluminum wheels. It also provides cautions about cleaning clear-coated wheels, which should not be polished. The author suggested that in the case of clear-coated wheels, owners should check the Web sites of the wheel manufacturer for instructions about how to clean them. If you no longer have the May 2013 issue of the magazine, the article is available to FMCA members online at www.fmcmagazine.com/motorhome-articles/7364-restoring-the-shine-to-aluminum-wheels

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