Rotten Roof
Dear RV Doctor:
I just purchased a used 2005 motorhome. After paying the previous owner and driving five hours home, I got up on the roof to check it out. I found that the roof around the bathroom vent is soft and has a “crunchy” feeling under the rubber. It is located on the very back corner of the motorhome. It seems as though the damage is limited to just that area and has not spread very far. The sidewalls seem firm as I push on them and I can’t find any give. Can I pull the rubber roof back and glue it back down after fixing the wood underneath? Would it be okay to replace only the back half of the roof, making a lap joint and sealing it? The rubber itself is in good condition, as it is clean, bright white, and still feels soft. It appears that the cause of the damage is the leaking roof vent. What should I look for when buying new material, and do you have a good source you would recommend?
Ben Haire
I know it won’t help after the fact — although it may be helpful to other readers — but I always recommend that a private buyer and seller agree to have an aftermarket pre-delivery inspection (PDI) performed by an independent technician or service facility before the consummation of a deal. It actually benefits both parties. The seller receives verification of just how good his or her motorhome is, and the buyer can use any “negatives” discovered as bargaining chips for final price negotiations.
Considering your current roof situation, my opinion is that total replacement is the best course of action. Water intrusion is the number one cause of damage to motorhomes, and it’s common for roof damage to be more widespread than one might think upon initial inspection. My concern about replacing only one section of the membrane is that you will still have 9-year-old rubber on the front section. With anything more than 7 or 8 years old (depending on the current degree of degradation), it’s usually best to replace the entire membrane. Plus, if the installation is not performed properly, your new lap joint could become problematic later. In a few short years, when it’s time to replace the front section of the roof, the back section will be relatively new. A completely new roof will allow you to inspect every square foot of the substrate before applying new EPDM.
Substrate preparation is the key, so do some homework if you plan to perform the repair yourself. One source I can recommend is All-Rite Custom Manufacturing. The company makes a product called Alpha Ply Roofing (www.all-rite.com/alpha-roofing-p-402.html) that’s used by numerous RV manufacturers. All-Rite also has do-it-yourself roof kits available. Good folks, too.
Seeping Shower
Dear RV Doctor:
My motorhome is a 2007 model, and the outdoor shower leaks. The fitting that comes out of the faucet assembly has a check valve or a breather hole in the bottom. When I turn on the water, it leaks out of that hole. Is it defective? How can I stop the leak? It also leaks water when I turn off the faucet. Any suggestions? Can I put a solid piece of pipe in place of that fitting?
Jerry Capaletti
Buffalo, New York
That particular fitting contains a component called a vacuum breaker, and inside of it are a couple of moving parts and seals. A vacuum breaker is a code requirement for lavatory faucets when the attached shower hose can (supposedly) reach the toilet bowl. It’s to protect against cross-contamination of fresh water with waste water. It prevents any siphoning action between the toilet and the shower. It is quite normal for the water remaining in the hose to drain out through the vacuum breaker once the faucets are shut off. The valve is simply doing its job: breaking the vacuum. Think about how you can keep liquid in a drinking straw by holding your finger on the top of the straw; a vacuum breaker works on the same principle. Lift your finger and the water drains out of the straw. It is also normal for some drips to come from the vacuum breaker while water is flowing through the shower hose, but it should be just a small amount. If the water coming from the vacuum breaker seems excessive, it’s entirely possible that mineral deposits are keeping the valve inside partially open. I suggest that you remove the fitting, soak it in vinegar overnight, and blow compressed air backward through it the next day. This may loosen and remove any foreign deposits inside. Depending on the brand of faucets in your motorhome, it also could be a faulty diverter valve, so a little more troubleshooting might be necessary to pin the exact cause down. I’m not certain whether a vacuum breaker is required when the faucet is installed in an outdoor assembly, nowhere near the toilet. But since your motorhome is out of warranty, if the dripping water is bothering you, I see no reason why you cannot replace the vacuum breaker with a common, full-flow hose adapter, commonly called a D-spud.
Lacking Light
Dear RV Doctor:
The indicator light on my motorhome’s water heater does not illuminate, but the appliance does heat water and seems to work fine. I removed the light and tested it to make sure it wasn’t the bulb. The light does come on under the testing procedures. It’s a 2012 model-year motorhome, and the light stayed on when we used it the first couple of times. Any idea what may be the cause?
Jim Price
Rainbow City, Alabama
I’m happy to tell you that there’s nothing wrong with your water heater. The lamp illuminates only when the water heater has a fault or fails to ignite. It normally stays off once the main flame is established. If you look at the light when you first turn on the water heater, you’ll notice it will be illuminated or blinking. Once the fire starts in the water heater and it is maintained for a period of time, the lamp should go out. That way you know that when the switch is “on” and the lamp is “off,” everything is okay. (Perhaps it’s best not to question the logic of product manufacturers; rather, simply abide with reality.)
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