Electrical Malfunction
Dear RV Doctor:
My Safari is always “on” in some electrical fashion. This problem has now escalated to the point where I cannot start the motorhome. One day we unhooked and were ready to pull out; I hit the key and nothing happened. I have the battery crossover setup, so I pushed the button on the dash, the starter kicked in, and we were able to get home.
I first assumed that the engine battery was toast. It was indeed bad. I put in a new battery, but the engine still would not crank. When I disconnected the engine battery (both cables off), and disconnected the ground cable on both coach batteries, I measured 4.4 volts at the ignition switch. I turned off the inverter in the coach, as I suspect this is part of the cause for the battery drain. I connected a jumper wire from the red wire (at the ignition switch) over to the pink wire, which activates the starter. The buzzer near the dash went off, but the starter still did not engage. During our trip home I did not hear any lag in the starter, so I do not suspect that the starter is bad. It seems very strange that the battery crossover setup worked one night but not the next morning. Please give me some suggestions!
Richard Morris, F412270
Collierville, Tennessee
I’m wondering whether someone at some time made some ill-advised modifications to the electrical systems in the coach. Another possibility is that the dual battery separator might be faulty, prohibiting the alternator from charging the engine battery. The engine-starting system and the house system should be totally separate at all times. The only time they would be interconnected is when using the battery boost/emergency start switch. Smart solenoids and dual system isolators would be a better choice.
It’s difficult to troubleshoot from this end, sight unseen, so a resolution might require someone gifted in “ringing out” each circuit in both the automotive and house systems. But I’d suspect the ground cable from the engine battery. An issue with many motorhomes is that the alternator is the only charging source for the engine battery. In most cases, the inverter/charger will not charge the engine-start battery. But it’s obvious: Somewhere there’s an interconnection between the two DC systems on your coach.
I would start by isolating all the components in the engine-start system. That battery should perform only engine-starting duties and perhaps power the dash components and circuits. Anything related to the interior of the RV — the house portion — should be connected only to the house bank. Discard that momentary emergency-start solenoid and install instead a smart isolator, one that will allow such an interconnection only when the battery voltages are sufficient to aid in starting the engine. Then, be sure the interconnections within the house bank are wired properly to the load. Be sure to carefully verify the integrity of the ground cables for both systems. If all your ground connections are sound, seek help from a certified RV technician with experience in troubleshooting 12-volt issues.
Time To Winterize
Dear RV Doctor:
I have a new coach and I’m ready to winterize it. It supposedly has an easy siphon winterization system in it. How does this work?
Mike Beleau
Cleveland, Ohio
If it’s what I think it is, the easy siphon system is a kit that is added between the fresh-water tank and the inlet to the water pump. It allows easy winterizing of the fresh-water system. There should be a tee fitting (maybe built into a valve) with a short piece of hose attached somewhere between the tank and the pump. Just stick the open end of that hose into a gallon of RV antifreeze, turn the valve, and then turn on the water pump. Be sure the water heater is set to “bypass” and simply run the antifreeze through the system by running the water pump. Once you have RV antifreeze emanating from each hot and cold faucet and through the toilet, close the valve, remove the bottle of antifreeze, and you’re all set.
Black Tank Trouble
Dear RV Doctor:
This is the first time I have had this problem with my 2006 Pace Arrow. The black tank has a built-in flush device that I think may be partially blocked, because I am not getting the usual water pressure from it. Water is getting through, but not with enough pressure to really clean the tank; plus, it squeals. Can this be cleaned without having to remove the tank? I thought of filling the tank and adding some sort of chemical, and then letting it soak for some time. I located what looks like a brass tee, but I figured the problem must be more than that, because water running through a tee would not normally squeal like this one does. If you think the problem is the valve, then I will start there, if I can find one. This might be interesting, as the hole in the wall is not that big, and three pipes are connected to it.
Olwyn Mooney
Via e-mail
Clogged ports, leaking or stuck check valves, cracked vacuum breakers, etc. — all are issues for a device that truly cannot adequately clean the inside of an RV holding tank in the first place. The gunk that builds up inside the tank (the stuff that promotes disease, shorts out monitor sensors, and causes odors) is almost impervious to common city water simply being forced into the tank. That’s my opinion, and I’m aware others may disagree, but I’ve read too many RV forums discussing so many problems with such a system. Plus, I’m simply not much of a promoter of drilling holes into the holding tank. I’m convinced the better option and the only way to effectively “clean” the inside walls of holding tank sludge is by using extremely high water pressure.
In this case, I would suspect a partially clogged check valve or a faulty vacuum breaker, along with a clogged nozzle inside the tank. Typically, the vacuum breaker and check valve are mounted above the flooded level of the toilet bowl. That’s why it’s commonly located in a wall void or inside a cabinet in the bathroom. In the accompanying photo, the brass part is the vacuum breaker while the check valve is usually an inexpensive plastic component.
As far as the clogged jets at the holding tank, try this: Pour a cup of CLR (Calcium Lime Rust remover) into the hose you use to flush the tanks. Attach the hose to a city water spigot, but barely crack open the spigot. You’ll want a very low flow of water trying to get through the clogged jets. The slower the water flow, the better. The CLR will slowly dissolve most blockages, though it may take a couple of applications. Once the jets are clear, turn on the water pressure full blast to flush the tank.
Unless the vacuum breaker is actually leaking, it is probably okay.