These treks reveal some of Zion’s most renowned sights.
By Ronald D. Kness
The area we call Zion National Park was designated a national monument in 1909. Ten years later, it was expanded and became a national park — Utah’s first. But long before that, its high cliffs, towers, and beautiful valleys attracted native people. Later, European settlers tried to make a living there.
Many RVers planning a trip to the park may have only a few days to see what took some people a lifetime to fully explore. Which begs the question: What should you do if you have little time to see Zion?
A mandatory shuttle is the only way to tour the park via vehicle during the spring, summer, and fall. But another option is to take a hike. Following are some of the don’t-miss hikes for your limited time in the park.
Angels Landing is renowned as one of two premier hikes in Zion, and for that matter, the whole National Park System. It is a four-hour, five-mile (round trip) hike that starts at the Grotto Trailhead and ends 1,500 feet above the canyon valley. It is not a loop trail; you must return the same way you went up. It also should be noted that the final half-mile of the hike to this spot is not for people who are afraid of heights, in poor physical shape, or have small children in tow.
The trail starts out as soft sand but quickly becomes pavement. It ascends a series of switchbacks to Refrigerator Canyon, which is shadowed by Angels Landing on the right and Cathedral Mountain on the left. The trail flattens out so hikers get a reprieve from the otherwise constant uphill grind, and the temperature drops 10 or more degrees.
Once past Refrigerator Canyon, the temperature and the trail rise again. And so begin the 21 demanding, longer switchbacks collectively known as Walter’s Wiggles. The trail eventually exits onto a flat, sandy area called Scout Lookout. This is the final destination for many hikers. It offers a great view of the Lower Zion Canyon, without all the stress.
From there, the last half-mile is potentially life-threatening. You must negotiate your way along the mountain spine, on a path that is as narrow as 36 inches in places and drops off 1,200 feet on one side and 800 feet on the other. In some spots, chains have been hammered into the rock to provide a grip for hikers, but not all the way to the top.
If you do reach the top, you can see up and down the whole Zion Valley. Sit down, have an energy bar and some water, and enjoy the view. It can be windy on top, so sitting helps prevent getting knocked off balance by the breeze.
The Narrows, the other premier day hike in Zion, involves water. But the beginning part is great if you just want a pleasant, easy stroll.
To get to the trailhead, take the shuttle to the Temple of Sinawava stop and begin on the paved, wheelchair-accessible, one-mile Riverside Walk along the Virgin River. This is a beautiful and popular walk with easy access to the water.
Where the Riverside Walk ends, The Narrows hike begins. Enter the river and start wading upstream in water that varies from ankle-deep to waist-deep. Needless to say, for this trek you need good, closed-toe hiking boots and sturdy hiking sticks. Many hikers prefer to rent water shoes, neoprene socks (to keep their feet warmer in the 57-degree water), and a pair of hiking sticks from one of the outfitters in Springdale, Utah. Since the hike involves climbing over and around slick rocks, you should not attempt it if you have questionable balance or fragile ankles, knees, or hips.
Day hikers can go upriver as far as Big Springs without needing a backcountry permit. Keep in mind that once you are in the water, progress will be at the rate of about only 1 mile per hour. Many visitors hike upriver for a couple of hours to the Wall Street formation before turning around. Either on the way up or back, be sure to go up Orderville Canyon a bit before returning to The Narrows. It is an offshoot of The Narrows, but very constricted; in some places, you can touch both walls at the same time. This five-hour round-trip hike offers a good Narrows experience.
By the way, don’t attempt to hike both The Narrows and Angels Landing in the same day. I recommend doing one of these and then mixing in any of the other suggested hikes as time allows.
Emerald Pools. Like Riverside Walk, this is an easy hike. It does involve a short climb to Upper Emerald Pool, but one can avoid that if need be by just staying below.
The Emerald Pools trail starts across the road from the Zion Lodge. After crossing the footbridge over the Virgin River, turn right at the “T” in the trail. Hiking just the 1.2-mile round trip Lower Emerald Pool on the paved trail takes about one hour. Persons in wheelchairs will need some assistance, but it is doable. At the end of this hike you can return on the same trail, or continue on the Middle and Upper Pool Trails.
If you choose to continue, the trail becomes uneven and rocky as it works its way up to the Middle Pool and finally the Upper Pool. Total hiking time to the Upper Pool and back is approximately 2.5 hours.
The trailhead for the Hidden Canyon hike is at the Weeping Rock shuttle stop. The two-mile hike gains 850 feet in elevation and ends in a narrow box canyon. People with a fear of heights may want to think twice about taking this hike, as some portions require grabbing onto chains to negotiate narrow ledges of the trail — and that is the maintained portion.
Once that portion ends, the fun begins! The trail drops down to the sandy canyon floor, where the walls are only 3 feet apart in places; in other parts of the canyon, they are 30 feet apart. Approximately 10 minutes from the end of the maintained trail, gaze right to see a small, freestanding arch — an unexpected bonus, easily missed if you are not looking for it. This hike makes a great alternate to Angels Landing, because it is similar, but less demanding. A round-trip hike takes about three hours.
The Weeping Rock Trail resembles the Lower Emerald Pools Trail in some ways. Water seeps out of the rock and flows down the wall, creating a small stream below. Various types of thirsty plants have taken hold in the moist rock and have created a form of “hanging garden” there.
This half-mile round-trip paved trail starts at the Weeping Rock shuttle stop. Although the walk has a few steep places (making it not accessible for disabled persons), they are short. If you’re looking for a scenic, easy trail, this is a good one to take.
Pa’rus Trail. Pa’rus is fun. It parallels and crosses the Virgin River in many places and is flanked by canyon walls. This hike rewards you with spectacular views anytime during the day, but especially in the morning and evening.
This is the park’s only authorized trail for riding bikes or walking pets. (Please note, however, that pets are not permitted on the shuttle.) The trail also is paved and wheelchair-accessible. Pick the trail up at the Canyon Junction shuttle stop. The 1.7-mile (one-way) trail ends at the canyon visitors center, which is near both park campgrounds.
Canyon Overlook. While all the hikes described so far have been in the south part of the park, this one is on the east side. This one-mile hike has an elevation gain of 163 feet at the far end and takes about an hour to complete. If you are arriving here from the park’s south entrance, the trailhead is at the far end of the 1.1-mile Zion–Mount Carmel tunnel. Vehicles 11 feet 4 inches high or 7 feet 10 inches wide or larger must have a $15 permit. Permits can be purchased at the ranger station just before entering the tunnel. See http://tinyurl.com/mshm2l6 for details.
Vehicles more than 13 feet 1 inch high or 40 feet long (single unit) or 50 feet long (combined units) are prohibited from going through the tunnel. Use only the south entrance when entering or leaving the park.
To reach the Canyon Overlook trailhead, once you are through the tunnel, park in either the small lot on the right or the one down the road on the left. Canyon Overlook’s rocky, uneven trail rewards you with spectacular views of both Zion and Pine Creek canyons at the trail’s terminus.
Zion is a true gem in the U.S. National Park Service. Any combination of day hikes will make for a memorable park visit.
Further Info
Zion National Park
Springdale, UT 84767
(435) 772-3256
Entry fees are $25 for seven days for a private vehicle. Interagency Annual and Lifetime passes are accepted.
The shuttle. Between March 15 and October 15 (2015), everyone is required to take the shuttle from the visitors center to all of the trails mentioned in this article, except Canyon Overlook and the Pa’rus. However, in the months when the shuttle is not operating, RVers can drive a towed vehicle to any of the trailheads. Parking is limited along Zion Drive, so park officials do not recommend driving RVs up to the trailheads.
South Campground, a no-hookup campground located near the park’s south entrance, offers first-come, first served sites. Call (435) 772-3256 for information. Watchman Campground, an electric-only campground, is also near the south entrance. For reservations from March through November, phone (877) 444-6777 or visit www.recreation.gov.
Zion Canyon Visitors Bureau
Springdale Town Hall
118 Lion Blvd.
Springdale, UT 84767
(888) 518-7070
(435) 772-0415
Area Campgrounds
The following is not a complete list, so please check your campground directory for more listings, or FMCA’s RV Marketplace, published in the January and June issues of FMC and online at FMCA.com.
McArthur’s Temple View RV Resort, C8136*
975 S. Main St.
St. George, UT 84770
(800) 776-6410
(435) 673-6400
Zion Canyon Campground and RV Resort
479 Zion Park Blvd.
Springdale, UT 84767
(435) 772-3237
Zion Ponderosa Ranch Resort
Twin Knolls Road
Mount Carmel, UT 84755
(800) 293-5444
Zion River Resort RV Park & Campground, C8908*
551 E. State Route 9
P.O. Box 790219
Virgin, UT 84779
(888) 822-8594
(435) 635-8594
Zion RV & Campground
12120 W. State Route 9
Mount Carmel, UT 84755
(877) 290-5756
*FMCA Commercial Member Campground