Extra Exterior Receptacle
Dear RV Doctor:
I’ve owned a couple of older Type A motorhomes that had a 120-volt weatherproof outlet on the outside of the coach. The outlets were handy for powering the awning lights, a radio, or even an exterior light for reading outside in nice weather.
I now have a 2003 National RV Sea Breeze, and all the “exterior” outlets are inside a storage compartment. If I want to use the canopy lights or keep a crockpot outside for a potluck, I have to run an extension cord and leave the storage area unlocked, which gives access to other parts of the basement.
My plan is to install a 120-volt weatherproof outlet about midpoint in the coach, run the line forward, and plug it in to one of the existing outlets in the storage area. It will be one of the circuits protected by a ground-fault circuit interrupter (GFCI). So, it really will be the same as an extension cord with one end plugged into a GFCI and the other end a box with two outlets behind a weatherproof cover. Is there a flaw in my plan?
Jerry Boone
Via Email
I see no direct flaw in your plan, other than you’ll have to encase the Romex cable in protective tubing if at any point it routes to the exterior underneath the coach. If you run the conductors inside the cabinets and out the exterior wall, that’s okay. But instead of you going to all that trouble, I’d rather you install a simple cable hatch in the compartment door. It’s rather easy to install, and you’ll not risk violating any electrical or fire codes or standards. You simply route your extension cords through the hatch and into the existing receptacle while the compartment door remains locked and secure.
Fuel Gauge Malfunction
Dear RV Doctor:
After some work was done on the dash air conditioner in my Fleetwood Bounder, the fuel gauge moved far past the “full” mark. Now I can’t tell how much diesel fuel is in the tank. How do I check whether my gauge is bad or if something else is wrong?
Gary Capitosti
Via Email
It’s quite possible the technician working on the air conditioner inadvertently loosened the connection at the fuel gauge, so I’d check that first. It’s also possible the fuel tank sending unit has malfunctioned.
Here’s an easy test. Well, it’s easy after you locate the sender wire that runs from the tank up to the instrument cluster! Once you locate that wire, cut it and strip back the insulation enough to touch the section that runs up to the gauge to a good chassis frame ground somewhere. With the ignition on and that fuel gauge wire grounded, the needle should fall below the empty mark. If you remove that wire from the ground, the gauge should climb again to a point above the full mark. If all this happens, the fuel gauge is just fine; the problem is in the sending unit inside the fuel tank.
It’s not uncommon for sending units to fail. To gain access to the sender inside the fuel tank, usually you must drop the tank. By the way, some readers have told me that they choose not to replace a faulty sending unit. They know about how far they can travel on a single tank of fuel, and they simply keep track of the mileage. If I did that, I’d be the first to run out of fuel (which causes additional problems), so I would certainly recommend replacing the sending unit if indeed the tests above indicate it has failed. And, while the tank is lowered and you have clear access, it’s a good time to replace all the fuel hoses and vent lines.
Tire Pressure Recommendation
Dear RV Doctor:
I have a 2009 Monaco Type A motorhome with an unladen weight of approximately 34,520 pounds. Its gross vehicle weight rating (GVWR) is 44,600 pounds. I have always maintained cold-tire pressures based on the RV placard, which calls for 115 psi on the front tires, 85 psi on the rear-axle tires, and 80 psi on the tag-axle tires. I use a tire pressure monitoring system, and I cover my outside tires when not in use.
I am replacing my tires with Continental HSR2, size 295/80R 22.5, which the motorhome sticker calls for. The tire specs indicate possible weights greater than the motorhome’s GVWR, total and per tire. My mechanic, who handles only truck tires and mostly fleets, suggests I inflate to the cold-tire pressure stamped on the sidewalls (120 psi), lest the tires be subject to dry rot, blowouts, and loss of mileage. I’ve heard that if I bring the inflation up, I will suffer a stiff ride, which makes no sense given that the RV suspension is air and floats quite nicely. So, do I fill the tires to 120 psi, or follow the RV placard of 115 psi front, 85 psi rear, and 80 psi tag?
Neil Pollack
Poughkeepsie, New York
I doubt a 5-psi difference between the two recommendations for the front-axle tires will cause an issue. But the bigger difference between the pressures on the sidewall stamp and on the motorhome label may indeed have an impact on the rear axle and tag axle.
All motorhome and tire manufacturers, as well as the Recreation Vehicle Safety & Education Foundation (RVSEF), state that correct tire pressure should be determined solely by the weight that each tire actually supports. To be 100 percent sure, individual weight measurements are a must. Also, all tires on the same axle should be inflated according to the heavier of the two axle end weights. That is especially important on such a large rig with a GVWR of more than 44,000 pounds. Much depends on weight distribution, from how Monaco constructed the coach to how you stow your gear. So, while you need to weigh the coach to avoid risking shortened tire life on the new set of Continentals, you should avoid platform scales; you truly need to determine how much weight each tire is carrying.
Until you can have the coach weighed by individual scales at each tire position, it is prudent to inflate the tires to the cold pressure embedded on the sidewalls. But overinflation also can cause harm, including steering and handling concerns. Safety dictates that you should never select a cold inflation level that exceeds the pressure molded on the tire sidewall.
RVSEF, the pre-eminent authority on all matters of weight and tire safety, sends specially trained weighing teams to places around the United States. Information about weighing, and dates and locations of upcoming weighing events, are posted at www.rvsafety.com, or call (321) 453-7673.
Remember, incorrect inflation pressures can lead to overheated brakes and premature breakdown of other chassis components. All tire manufacturers publish inflation guides, which are based solely on the load each tire is carrying.