Roof Cleaner Recommendation
Dear RV Doctor:
Twice a year, I clean my RV’s roof with a popular roof cleaner and treatment. Just about every time I wash the RV, I spray on another popular cleaner and wash it off after brushing the roof. Recently an RV technician used silicone spray to lubricate the antenna, and some of the silicone got on the rubber roof. As I wiped it off, it removed a layer of dirt, exposing the bright white luster of the original roof. Is it safe to clean the entire roof with the silicone spray, spraying it on and wiping it off with paper towels, followed by cleaning and sealing with roof treatments?
Dave Gondak
Doylestown, Pennsylvania
It’s quite likely the silicone spray contained petrochemicals, probably some type of petroleum distillate. That may be great for cleaning purposes but easily can damage a rubber membrane, especially if it’s allowed to soak in. Some hard-to-find silicone sprays contain no petroleum distillates, but they may not clean the surface as easily.
Any cleaning agent that contains petroleum-related chemicals is simply not good for EPDM rubber. Besides, silicone is great as a lubricant, but the roof of a motorhome is one place you really don’t want to be slick and slippery!
For removing tough stains, bird droppings, or mold residue, I recommend a clean cotton cloth dampened with a dash of mineral spirits. Do not pour the mineral spirits directly onto the membrane, just onto the cloth, and carefully remove that stain. For cleaning the whole roof, stick with something concocted especially for EPDM rubber. Accessory stores carry many such products, and some may work better than others.
Low Water Warning
Dear RV Doctor:
I just bought a 1999 Fleetwood Discovery motorhome. When I go around a corner or park on a slope, the “low water” warning buzzer/light comes on and stays on until the coach levels out. However, when I am traveling at normal speeds, the temperature gauges show normal temps or lower. Do I need to put antifreeze directly into the radiator or into the plastic reservoir, filling it up to the cold line? The engine compartment has complicated directions for putting antifreeze in my coach. Can I get the recommended antifreeze and just put it in the radiator like a normal vehicle?
Mitchell Burch
Cincinnati, Ohio
According to Freightliner, via the fine folks at Fleetwood, it is important to keep an eye on the level in the coolant reservoir tank, as you are doing. If it dips low, the “low water” indicators will indeed come on.
Here’s the recommended process for filling: Add the appropriate antifreeze to the plastic reservoir up to the cold-fill line, then run the engine and allow the coolant to cycle through the engine and radiator for about 10 minutes. Allow it to cool, and keep adding antifreeze as necessary. Typically, the recommended level is midway between the two lines on the reservoir. The low-water sensor is either mounted in the radiator or in the reservoir container itself; if you see a couple of wires connected to the reservoir, be sure the connections are dry and tight.
Also, have you checked the fuel/water filter trap? In some cases, excess water in the fuel may cause the warning to go off. It does sound more like a low coolant situation; not so much that your cooling system will overheat, just that the overflow and reserve capacity in the reservoir is low. You can always contact Freightliner directly at (800) 385-4357 just to be sure.
Broken Propane Valve
Dear RV Doctor:
I have a 2014 Itasca motorhome. The propane tank has a broken valve stem that has come free from the valve seat. The problem will be solved either with a new bonnet assembly or by replacing the entire valve. My problem is finding someone to fix this. I’ve tried every sensible option. Any suggestions?
Robert Birdsong
Via Email
I would suggest contacting a propane retailer. If none of your local RV service shops has the necessary equipment to evacuate the tank so the valve can be replaced, check with residential or industrial gas retailers. They may have the high-capacity/high-volume equipment and expertise needed to remove the remaining fuel in order to replace the valve. And I would indeed opt for a completely new valve assembly rather than risk replacing just the stem and bonnet.
Propane Won’t Stay Lit
Dear RV Doctor:
I have a Norcold 2.7-cubic-foot refrigerator in my Type B motorhome. I turn the three-way selector to gas, push and hold the manual gas valve button, and then push the manual igniter button until the indicator needle goes into the green. I hold it in for about five seconds, and then I release the manual gas button. However, the gas needle will not stay in the green and the burner shuts off. This happens about half the time. When it does light, the refrigerator works normally. Thanks for any help!
Karen Tellin
Lake Havasu City, Arizona
A few things to check: Make sure the thermocouple is not covered in soot and that it is positioned with its tip directly in the pilot flame. You may have to have someone hold that button in while you run outside to check. The thermocouple tip can be cleaned with 0000-grade steel wool or fine emery cloth. The flame should be full and mostly blue with orange or yellow tips on the top of the fire only.
If all looks as it should, any certified RV service technician can further test the thermocouple as well as the magnet in the gas control valve. It may just require a simple cleaning of the burner, the flue pipe, and the thermocouple, plus a quick check of the delivered propane pressure.
A wise RVer has all four of the propane-burning appliances — furnace, water heater, cooking unit, and refrigerator — cleaned and serviced at least annually. Perhaps yours is overdue.