A small town and a lesser-trod national preserve give RVers plenty to explore in northeast Tennessee.
By Kathryn Lemmon
September 2015
Here’s a short geography quiz: What lies northwest of Knoxville, Tennessee, and often gets forgotten by tourists in favor of the Great Smoky Mountains? No fair checking the map. Give up? It’s a scenic region of Tennessee called the Upper Cumberland.
Encompassing 14 counties, the Upper Cumberland is home to little towns and “micropolitan” areas that make an economic impact. Some, such as Rugby, produce a notable cultural impact as well.
Rugby features historical architecture and picturesque settings, a slice of Victorian England in rural Tennessee. The town was the vision of British-born writer Thomas Hughes, author of the popular 1857 novel Tom Brown’s Schooldays.
In 1880, Hughes established a Utopian community in the wilderness of northern Tennessee’s Cumberland Plateau. Rugby was planned as a cooperative, class-free society for the younger sons of Britain’s upper class, victims of a rule that gave a father’s entire inheritance to his eldest son. While the experiment ultimately failed, against great odds, many of the village buildings survived.
Since 1966, the nonprofit group Historic Rugby has dedicated itself to preserving the Victorian village. In this heavily wooded landscape, little has changed since the days of Thomas Hughes. It’s easy to understand why he and his group selected this location to carve a community out of the wilderness. The undeveloped land provided a blank canvas.
Rugby continues to introduce outsiders to its charm. Lots are for sale near town, and full-time residents occupy private homes that have been restored or re-crafted to be as identical as possible to the originals. The town hosts a lengthy list of craft classes and outdoor workshops that blend local culture with that of Victorian England. Time your visit between Thursday and Sunday, as those are the days the Rugby Commissary and Museum Visitor Center are open. A film at the center details how the village evolved. From there, you can explore some of its highlights by taking a guided tour.
Tours include the pride of Rugby, the Hughes Free Public Library, built in 1881. It contains an astounding 7,000 volumes, no small number for a village. At a time when people of this region lived in primitive log cabins, possessions were few and books were rare. The tour also takes you to Christ Church Episcopal; the Rugby Schoolhouse; and Kingstone Lisle, Thomas Hughes’ home.
While in town, browse the commissary for a keepsake and grab a bite at the Harrow Road Café. The café can also claim lineage back to the 1880s. I selected a bowl of thick homemade soup and a lemonade during our visit, perfect fuel for more sight-seeing.
Rugby sits on the southern boundary of the Big South Fork National River & Recreation Area, a grand name for an equally grand place. If you visit Rugby in summer up until Labor Day, you’ll notice that a Big South Fork ranger office is open right in town. Pick up a hiking map, among other information; one leads to Rugby’s “Gentlemen’s Swimming Hole,” a spot on a nearby creek.
Since geographic features don’t adhere to strict state borders, Kentucky and Tennessee actually share the Big South Fork. Miles of sandstone bluffs and vast gorges offer stunning vistas. The roads are winding and the pace slower in this part of the world.
A thorough exploration of the Big South Fork would easily require a full week. The Big South Fork’s Bandy Creek Visitor Center, north of Rugby, provides loads of information and a well-stocked store.
Two rock formations called Twin Arches are a highlight of Big South Fork. These natural sandstone bridges sit close together in the midst of the woods. Although impressive, they are challenging to photograph together. The hiking options encompass 150 miles, many designated for horseback and mountain biking.
Our time was limited to two short hikes and a drive to a vista. We meandered down a trail to the river. The famous (or infamous) and verdant kudzu was evident all around, rather like a leafy blanket. Our guide said its other name was the “foot-a-night” vine, for that is how fast it grows.
He was well acquainted with kudzu and told us this invasive plant can envelop a car or house or anything else in its path. Southern farmers were encouraged to plant kudzu in the past, but now it’s become a big nuisance and is tough to eradicate.
The power of the river was a sight to make a kayaker itch for a paddle. The only sounds were persistent water cascading on the rocks, set to a backdrop of birdsong. My kind of place.
Black bears were abundant in this region in times past. Habitat changes caused the bear population to dwindle to nearly zero. In 1996-97, 14 adult female bears and 16 cubs were moved from the Smoky Mountains and released into the Big South Fork area. Radio collars allowed scientists to track them. While a portion of the furry ladies ventured farther off, others stayed. Bear sightings are up and, according to biologists, the bruins are thriving.
Our final stop took us back in the direction of Nashville and to the Appalachian Center for Craft (ACC). The center is a satellite campus of Tennessee Tech University, located near Smithville. Similar to Rugby, the ACC is set in a serene place, with little concrete and nary a high-rise structure to be seen.
Nonetheless, don’t underestimate the talent within. Here, in “the back of beyond,” cutting-edge creations in clay, fiber, glass, metal, and wood are fashioned from imagination into reality. The ACC continues to be one of the premier craft facilities in the South.
Public galleries showcase the art, from contemporary to traditional. And the retail shop, called the Goldenrod Gallery, is much like any other art gallery — but with price tags. Shoppers can admire the items and take them home. My favorites were the jewelry and hand-blown glass pieces. The temptation to buy silver earrings won me over.
The craft center offers more than 50 hands-on workshops throughout the year and the classes usually fill. For details, visit the website workshop page at www.tntech.edu/craftcenter/workshops/.
If you’re seeking an alternative to the Smokies, consider the Upper Cumberland area. It offers some of the same benefits with fewer crowds. Because of rugged terrain and the sparse placement of towns, the campgrounds are widespread, too.
Further Info
Historic Rugby
1331 Rugby Parkway
Rugby, TN 37733
(888) 214-3400
(423) 628-2441
Email: rugbylegacy@highland.net
Big South Fork National River & Recreation Area
Bandy Creek Visitor Center
4564 Leatherwood Road
Oneida, TN 37841
(423) 286-7275
Appalachian Center for Craft
Tennessee Tech University
1560 Craft Center Drive
Smithville, TN 37166
(931) 372-3051
Area Campgrounds
Ballyhoo Family Campground
256 Werthwyle Drive
Crossville, TN 38555
(931) 484-0860
Bandy Creek Campground
4564 Leatherwood Road
Oneida, TN 37841
Info: (423) 286-8368
Reservations: (877) 444-6777, www.recreation.gov
Big South Fork Lodging, RV Campground, and Stables
3607 Leatherwood Ford Road
Jamestown, TN 38556
(931) 879-4230
Davy Crockett Campground
324 Trails End
Crossville, TN 38571
(931) 277-3800
Made in the Shade RV Park
6878 Granville Highway
Granville, TN 38564
(931) 653-4486
True West Campground
3341 Leatherwood Ford Road
Jamestown, TN 38556
(931) 752-8272