Broken Water Heater Drain Plug
Dear RV Doctor:
I attended your waste management seminar at FMCA’s Family Reunion in Pomona and learned several good tips. Thank you! We are full-timers in a 2012 Winnebago Adventurer with an Atwood water heater. Because we experience excessive lime deposits, I flush the tank twice a year. The owner of my local RV shop suggested I put in an anode rod to reduce the lime deposits, which I did. When I flushed the tank, all seemed normal, and the anode rod was about 50 percent consumed. It didn’t reduce the lime deposits, though. When I tried to remove the hex plug, it broke off from the anode rod. The corrosion must be pretty solid, as no water seeps from the drain hole. Help!
The Atwood representative at Pomona said I should not use an anode, and suggested I get the anode out as soon as possible because of what happened and the possibility it could damage the aluminum tank. My RV guy suggested soaking the broken part with penetrating oil and using an extractor tool. I’m concerned about the drill bit wandering off-center because of the steel rod core in the center of the anode. What do you suggest?
Bob Kopernik, F351531
San Jose, California
An anode is not required or recommended for the Atwood water heater. It’s a shame you got bum information from your local shop, and the owner, no less. To remove that broken component, I also would recommend using an extractor tool, such as an Easy Out, at least as a start. I’d suggest a small, thin extractor tool, rather than a fat, stubby one. That way, you can drill a much smaller pilot hole, even if it’s a bit off-center, away from the center core.
A worst-case scenario might be to drill a progressively larger hole into what’s left of the anode fitting and use a small internal pipe wrench to remove the remnants, and then run a pipe thread chaser through to clean out the female threads. My fear — and the reason not to have an anode installed in an Atwood heater — is that the anode fitting likely has “welded” to the inner tank fitting as a result of the galvanic reaction between two dissimilar metals. Plus, it’s simply not needed. Let’s hope an Easy Out or internal pipe wrench works.
Water Pump Cycles, Propane Alarm Sounds
Dear RV Doctor:
Thank you for your seminars in Madison. I am having a problem with my water pump going off every 20 to 30 minutes when boondocking. Also, my propane alarm is going off with no propane leaking. Thanks!
Dave Browne
Via email
Typically, when the water pump cycles or “burps” every few minutes while in the energized position, it means there is a leak somewhere in the system. The confounding part is that it could be a water leak, an air leak, or a pressure switch malfunction. If you don’t see any water dripping or pooling anywhere, this could mean the leak is so small that the water is absorbed into the flooring or carpeting.
Twenty to 30 minutes is quite a while for the pressure switch to sense a drop in pressure if you do not have an accumulator tank, so I’m guessing you probably don’t see any evidence of water anywhere. But just to be sure, inspect inside all the compartments below the floor level and look under the motorhome carefully for any sign of water dripping.
It’s also possible the pressure switch on the pump itself is faulty. The best way to determine whether the problem is the pump or somewhere downstream of the pump is to cap off the outlet of the water pump at the pump, and then turn the pump back on. If the cycling goes away, the problem is downstream of the pump, somewhere in the system. If it still cycles every 20 to 30 minutes, the problem is in the pump. A replacement pressure switch is available for most RV water pumps.
I doubt it’s related to the water pump issue, but low voltage can cause the propane alarm to go off. Be sure the battery bank is fully charged. In other cases, hair sprays, cooking greases, or other odorants in the air can cause a false indication.
As a safety caution, have the propane system professionally tested for gas leaks. This is best accomplished with the RVIA-approved method of a timed pressure-drop test. Any certified RV service technician can perform this 15-minute test. It will reveal, with 100 percent accuracy, whether any leaks exist in the gas piping system. It won’t tell you where, but it will tell you IF there is a leak. Also, propane leak detection devices have a life span of only about five years. If yours is five years or older, replace it.
Challenger Leveling Challenge
Dear RV Doctor:
I own a 2004 Damon Challenger 348. My problem is with my automatic levelers. When I retracted them after three months in Florida, the “jacks down” warning light would not go out. I checked all the jacks, and they are indeed all up. I sprayed them with silicone spray before raising them. I had to disconnect the power to the controls so that I could start and move my coach. Was it anything I did or didn’t do? I am back home in Wisconsin and close to repair shops. Is there anything I can do myself?
Roy Beals
Kenosha, Wisconsin
I doubt it was anything you did. It’s possible the fluid is low in the hydraulic pump reservoir. Check to be sure the fluid level is correct. All the jacks must be fully retracted, and the dipstick should lower into the fluid about 3/4-inch. If your unit does not have a dipstick, fill the reservoir with automatic transmission fluid just to the bottom of the fill port. Checking the fluid level at least once a month is recommended.
It might also be a good idea to check for fluid leaks at the manifold, as well as the connections at each jack. In some cases, it may be necessary to replace the control assembly. You might want to call the customer service department at Lippert Components, (574) 537-8900, before investing too much time or money. Have the complete model number and serial number of the system ready.
If all this fails, your best bet is to have a professional service tech run the system through a battery of tests in order to fully diagnose it. Diagnosis is much easier with eyeballs on the problem and being able to take measurements.
American Eagle Dash Removal
Dear RV Doctor:
I have an American Eagle on a Spartan chassis. I am about ready to replace the ignition switch. I would like to know how to get the top of the dash cover off, over the instruments, without messing it up, so I can get at the ignition switch.
Phil Tenney
Elko Mountain, Nevada
Never having removed the dash on an Eagle before, I had to rely on my contacts at the Allied Recreation Group Service Center in Decatur, Indiana. Here’s what they said:
“First remove two screws in the face trim. Next, remove a plastic trim piece at the back of the dash cover. Then, remove the screws holding the dash cover down. Pull up on the left side of the dash cover, and then pull up on the right side to remove it.”
So, there you have it. Hope this helps.