Old St. Augustine

Spanish explorer Juan Ponce de Leon stepped ashore in this area in 1513, seeking treasure, land, and, supposedly, a mythical Fountain of Youth. His ships dropped anchor between today’s Jacksonville and Melbourne Beach.

As an adventurer, Ponce de Leon packed a surplus of ambition in his 4-foot-11-inch frame, making up for his lack of stature with perseverance. A statue of Little Ponce (as I call him) in St. Augustine depicts the man gesturing toward the distant horizon, as is befitting his life. Crossing vast oceans was not for the faint of heart, then or now. He claimed the area for Spain and called it Pascua de Florida, or Feast (festival) of Flowers.

In 1565, another Spaniard, Don Pedro Menendez de Aviles, sailed in and named the inlet in honor of Augustine, a saint of the Roman Catholic Church. Thus was founded the colony of St. Augustine, a spot crucial to Spanish strategy in the region.

As these dates suggest, St. Augustine is a very old city, at least by American standards.

RVing explorers will find a city full to the brim with diverse amusements. A four-day visit is barely enough time to cover all the options, and if you play golf, allow a full week. You may wish to spend one day at the World Golf Hall of Fame & Museum, a short drive from downtown St. Augustine.

Once you are set up at a campground, the most convenient way to get your navigational bearings is via a tourist trolley. Leave the in-town driving to the locals, I always say. The drivers/tour guides are a funny group, and they make the circuit entertaining and a wee bit educational.

Ponce de Leon’s Fountain of Youth Archaeological Park is a 15-acre attraction on the trolley route. It’s the place to learn about the first Spanish settlers and the native people who greeted them. I swallowed a small glass of water from the famed fountain, but, alas, my gray hair remained that way. Multiplied, in fact! Guides say this is where Ponce and his mates landed after their lengthy voyage, although the precise location is in dispute. Understandably, the area has been a tourist attraction for some time. Who could resist a sip, just in case?

The park regularly offers cannon-firing demonstrations. About a dozen of us were gathered on a warm May afternoon to witness the spectacle. The weapon sat pointed toward the water’s edge, as gentlemen in period clothing made preparations. Energetic toddlers raced around the grass without a care in the world — until the moment of the big boom.

Cannons also are stored at the Spanish-built Castillo de San Marcos National Monument. Locals simply call it “the fort.” The oldest masonry fort in the continental United States, this is a 1672 marvel. If the historical aspect of the complex doesn’t grab you, the stunning location on the water certainly will. It’s said that opponents’ cannon balls did not crack the fort walls, but rather bore into them and then stuck, as though going through Styrofoam. The walls are made of a mixture of broken shells and sand called coquina, which is very porous. Visitors can amble about and read signage that provides important details.

The fort can be busy during peak travel times, since scarcely a person comes to St. Augustine without making a stop at this attraction.

I’m a big fan of the Lightner Museum, both inside and out. The museum is located in the former Alcazar Hotel, built in 1888 by developer and Standard Oil cofounder Henry Flagler. It’s across the street from Flagler College, which uses Flagler’s former Hotel Ponce de Leon as a centerpiece. You can’t get near this town without hearing about the life of Mr. Flagler, and that’s because he was instrumental in its development. Initially, it was a vacation destination for wealthy northerners. He was as ambitious as Ponce de Leon, although taller, no doubt.

People tend to overlook the Lightner Museum, but it will not disappoint. The collection contains exceptional displays of fine china, cut crystal, sculptures, musical instruments, and much, much more. Be sure to see the incredible stained glass. The grounds are meticulously groomed with picture-postcard palms and flowering plants. The landscaping and water features make this a quiet place of reflection.

On the other end of the spectrum, lively St. George Street is a pedestrian-only thoroughfare in the heart of the city. Modern shops coexist with historic structures on St. George. People-watching is a form of entertainment on the street. People dressed as pirates and British Redcoats mingle with everyday folks, certainly not something you see in other parts of Florida.

Look for another of my favorite places, the quiet, gated garden at the corner of St. George and Hypolita streets.  You can see, through the locked garden gate, a polished bronze statue of Queen Isabella of Spain riding a donkey. It’s a small but poignant piece of art.

I visited the Villa Zorayda Museum on my most recent trip. The structure was originally a private home built in 1883 by Bostonian Franklin W. Smith. His dream home was a one-tenth scale reproduction of part of the Alhambra Palace in Granada, Spain. As is true of the Lightner, visitors frequently miss this museum. Be sure you don’t!

Round out your Spanish Ponce experience with a meal at the Columbia Restaurant, located at 98 St. George St. Sample Spanish cuisine, including flavorful Spanish bean soup and a special “1905” salad tossed at the table. The first Columbia opened in 1905 in Tampa, Florida, and the family has added more locations during the 100-year time span.

To hear more captivating history about St. Augustine, with a haunted slant, sign up for a ghost tour. Any city with a 450-year history is bound to have intrigue. The tours are popular, with several private companies offering options. As a general rule, they combine walking with some form of transportation.

Spirits are not limited to humans, at least according to guides in St. Augustine. Two standard poodles in ghost form are said to wander around St. George Street. The Castillo de San Marcos claims human and animal ghosts, too. During times of trouble, residents took their families, along with the resident chickens, sheep, and cattle, into the fort for protection. Occasionally, barnyard sounds can be heard emanating from the moat area where no animals currently reside.

The city gate on St. George Street is famous for the apparition of a young girl, seen repeatedly. She is believed to have been a victim of a yellow fever epidemic and goes by the name Elizabeth.

Visions of Captain Jack Sparrow will dance in your head at the St. Augustine Pirate & Treasure Museum, a fairly new addition on Castillo Drive. St. Augustine was raided by pirates back in the 1500s, when the city was caught in a tug-of-war between Spain and Britain. Like the fort, the pirate museum is wildly popular with the under-10 set, although adults will appreciate its keen artifacts and historical displays.

Another Flagler edifice in St. Augustine is the beautiful Memorial Presbyterian Church, built to honor one of the developer’s daughters, Jennie Louise, who died in childbirth. The church is on the trolley line and attracts numerous visitors. A docent is usually on hand there to answer questions about the structure.

Across the Bridge of Lions lies Anastasia Island, home to the St. Augustine Lighthouse and Maritime Museum. This photogenic lighthouse and keeper’s house is open daily. Visitors are welcome to climb the 219 steps to the top of the lighthouse. I resisted that temptation.

Television ghost hunters love this property and have found more than one ethereal presence on the grounds. Most of the evening ghost tours visit the lighthouse after nightfall. It is spooky!

It is tough to imagine the keeper repeatedly climbing those steps in the midst of summer with so little ventilation and, of course, no air-conditioning. Nonetheless, the entire property is neatly kept and worth a visit. A miniature lighthouse from the gift shop makes a nice memento of St. Augustine.

I can’t help but wonder what Ponce de Leon would make of St. Augustine today. When you see him atop his monument, tell him Katie sent you.

29 Old Mission Ave.

St. Augustine, FL 32084

(800) 653-2489

The following may not be a complete list, so please check your campground directory or the RV Marketplace, published online at FMCA.com and in the January and June issues of FMC magazine.

1425 State Route 16

St. Augustine, FL 32084

(904) 824-4016

1505 State Route 207

St. Augustine, FL 32086

(800) 233-4324 — Reservations

(904) 824-3574

4125 Coastal Highway (A1A)

St. Augustine, FL 32084

(800) 542-8316

(904) 824-1806

4225 A1A South

St. Augustine Beach, FL 32080

(800) 342-4007

(904) 471-3414

525 W. Pope Road

St. Augustine, FL 32080

(800) 562-4022 — Reservations

(904) 471-3113

2711 County Road 208

St. Augustine, FL 32092-0596

(877) 824-2319 — Reservations

(904) 824-2319

*FMCA commercial member