Cable Confusion
Dear RV Doctor:
More than a year ago, we purchased a 2006 Fleetwood Excursion. It had battery issues when we bought it, but everything worked. The house battery is wired according to a diagram from one of your seminars. However, we’re not sure where one red cable should be connected on the house battery terminals.
After cleaning all the terminals, we tried to reconnect the cables, but the red cable sparked terribly. With this cable disconnected from the battery (and the motorhome hooked up to shore power), everything in the coach works except the generator, which will not start. It’s very hard to trace the cable through the frame. It has 1.3 volts DC on it. Can you tell us where this cable comes from?
George & Della Dixon, F416062
Greencastle, Indiana
Unfortunately, I don’t have a conclusive response. Without being able to take measurements and see how your Excursion is wired, I’m just guessing. But the fact that the generator will not start without that red cable leads me to believe that’s the circuit it belongs to. And because you are measuring a very small amount of residual voltage, I’m thinking it is likely the ground cable for the generator start circuit.
I’ve not known Fleetwood to use red for the negative side, but who knows what transpired between the time the coach was built and when you obtained it. It’s not out of the realm of possibility for a dealer or aftermarket shop to run out of a certain color and use a cable of another color for ground.
To be sure, some electrical measurements are required. If you’re handy with a digital multimeter, try measuring the resistance on that cable between the cable end and the frame. If there is continuity, zero ohms (or you’re able to physically trace the cable to the frame somewhere), then it’s probably a ground conductor. But I hesitate saying that for sure, because it may also mean that cable is shorted to ground. If you cannot determine the cause, my other suggestion is to have an RVIA/RVDA-certified service technician verify these suspicions.
Heater Removal
Dear RV Doctor:
I’m having trouble removing the DuoTherm heater on my coach. Do I have to remove the vents on the outside or should it just pull out? I have been pulling on it, but I can’t get it out. As I look into the two holes outside, one hole appears to have a damper closed inside. Is this normal? I removed the ducts and the screws holding it in, but it just won’t come out.
Mark Heizer
Via email
Indeed it is necessary to remove the intake/exhaust assembly from the side of the coach. There should also be a couple (maybe three) additional screws holding the furnace in place inside its enclosure. It depends on which DuoTherm model you have. In most cases, only the guts of the furnace will be removed, leaving the outer casing secured to the floor or the cabinet. Also, it is not necessary to remove the distribution ducts from the side of the casing, since only the innards slide out.
Don’t forget, the copper propane tubing to the furnace must be removed to slide the unit out from the casing. So be sure the propane is turned off at the container, and don’t forget to install a flare plug when you disconnect that tubing at the furnace. The 12-volt conductors and thermostat wires must be removed as well.
As for the baffle you see in the exhaust tube, it’s likely there to help disperse the heat of the exhausted gases. The heat from the exhaust is much hotter than the comfortable heat distributed inside the motorhome, but it should not be fully closed off. There might be a separate problem with that exhaust duct. While you have it out and apart, it’s a good idea to clean any obstructions. For additional tips, refer to my FMC article “Furnace Maintenance” (December 2015, page 48).
Water System Winterization
Dear RV Doctor:
My wife and I are brand-new to the RVing world, and although we have been bouncing questions of off good friends, I felt that I should get another opinion. We just purchased a 1994 29-foot Type C motorhome that is in great mechanical shape. The prior owners always winterized it. My storage spot in Seattle has electric power. Will my water system be okay if I just blow out the water lines and leave the furnace on, set at 40 degrees? Or is this just a pipe dream? (No pun intended!) We have very mild winters here, but I don’t want to have to replace my water lines. Your thoughts?
Brent Sterritt
Seattle, Washington
As long as you completely blow the lines dry, the motorhome should survive the winter without a problem. Seattle doesn’t get that cold for that long, unless you’re up in the mountains. I do recommend using RV antifreeze if long stretches of sustained below-freezing temperatures are expected.
In my opinion, you wouldn’t even have to plug in the coach and run the furnace if the water lines are blown completely dry. Running the furnace will deplete your propane supply, which may also be problematic during storage. I’m not a fan of having the coach energized (either AC or DC) during any period of nonuse, unless you can visually check on it at least once a week. Some converter chargers are prone to overcharge the battery bank if it’s not checked periodically. So, the dry method of winterizing the plumbing systems is indeed viable for moderate winter storage.
Mold Underfoot
Dear RV Doctor:
Two years ago we bought a 2008 27-foot motorhome that had barely been used. This past year we’ve noticed an old, stale smell that’s been bothering us. We had moisture under the floor. Our concern is the thousands of white spots all over the underside of the floor in the front half of the motorhome. We’re assuming this is a type of mold. The back half is still solid black. We don’t know if the mold will go away once we stop the moisture problem or if it’s there permanently, along with the funky smell. We also wonder whether it’s a health hazard. If it must be removed, lots of stuff under there — cables, wires, gas lines, etc. — would have to be taken out first. Any advice would be welcomed.
Karen & Guy Armstrong
Oakville, Ontario
It’s almost a given that the white spots are mold, which is common on surfaces left moist and enclosed. First, determine how the water got there and repair that. Once the area is completely dry, check the flooring for soft spots as compared to unaffected areas. If it’s spongy, the subfloor may need replacement.
The next step is to remediate the area. Clean it thoroughly with a bleach and water solution. This will destroy the fungi. Be sure to wear personal protective gear (goggles, mask, gloves, long sleeves, etc.) A garden-type hose sprayer is usually the best applicator. Once all AC power has been disconnected, apply the solution over the surface area as a light mist — do not soak. Do not scrub the surface. Then allow the area to dry and check that the fungus has disappeared. If it’s still present, repeat the spray and allow it to dry again.
The experts I checked with don’t think this is bad fungus, since your description stated “thousands of spots.” But before you tackle this job, you may want to check with your insurance carrier. The cost for professional remediation and repair or replacement of the floor may be covered.
Engine Light Reset
Dear RV Doctor:
We have a 2007 Gulf Stream Tour Master on a Freightliner chassis. The “stop engine” light came on, and it appeared that the coolant was low, which we corrected. How do I reset the stop engine code? It has a circular code plug, but I don’t have that kind of code reader. Is there an easy way?
John Shulse
Via Email
On such an engine-specific matter, I unfortunately do not have a surefire answer for you. The FMCA.com “Forums” administrator suggests calling Freightliner customer support (800-385-4357) and providing them your VIN. Or perhaps a reader can offer some specific advice. Anyone?