Heating Water Quickly
Dear RV Doctor:
When we need almost instant hot water, we occasionally fire up the water heater using both gas and electric at the same time. Is that acceptable, or will it cause damage?
Heating Water Quickly
Dear RV Doctor:
When we need almost instant hot water, we occasionally fire up the water heater using both gas and electric at the same time. Is that acceptable, or will it cause damage?
Michael Bockoff
Via Email
There is absolutely no problem running the water heater on both heat sources at the same time. You’ll certainly heat that tankful of water that much more quickly, although it’s not quite instantaneous. And it’s totally safe, since redundant safeguards are in place.
A 120-volt-AC circuit breaker protects against high amperage draw from the incoming power, and the thermostat and an energy cutoff switch protect the gas side. Further, the pressure and temperature relief valve protects the tank itself and will open automatically and expel hot water and excess pressure during both electric and gas operation.
After that first tankful, depending on whether you want to conserve propane or electricity, turn off one of the heat sources.
Towing And Charging
Dear RV Doctor:
I tow a 2015 Subaru with a manual transmission behind my 2013 Itasca Navion 24G. The car’s owners manual says to tow it with all four wheels down and to have the ignition key in the “on” position. This causes the battery on the car to run down. I have to jump it sometimes after less than three hours of towing time. Any suggestions?
Bobby Howard
Via email
One thing you can do is add a battery charging line from the motorhome to the car battery. It is simply wired into the umbilical that contains the lamps and turn markers. Just as when someone is towing a trailer, the charge line from the motorhome splits the alternator output and keeps the battery in the car charged while towing. The size of the battery charge conductor should be adequate to handle the appropriate current flow. You’ll have to add an isolator on the motorhome, but it’s an easy task for any reputable RV service shop.
It also would be wise to measure the current draw in the car when the ignition is turned on. Perhaps there are loads in the car that can be eliminated, thereby reducing the overall battery drain while the car is being towed.
Little Or No Hot Water
Dear RV Doctor:
I have a 1998 Fleetwood Bounder. I have no problem lighting my water heater, which seems to get hot, but I just get cold water out of the faucet. When I turn on the water pump, it is just cold. When I turn the water pump off, hot water will come out of the faucet until it stops because the pump is off. This is weird, and I haven’t a clue what to do. Can you help?
Jim Moe
Via email
It’s quite possible the water heater bypass valves are positioned to the bypass mode, or at least partially. With the water pump running, the plumbing lines are literally bypassing the heater, and yet some heated water — just enough to make its presence known — possibly is passing through the check valve at the heater outlet. It’s also possible there is no check valve at all at the water heater outlet.
Check also to see whether the bypass valves are plastic or metallic. Plastic valves within the hot side of the system may stick open or closed, regardless of the position of the valve handles. In other words, even if the valves are NOT set to bypass, the heater could still actually be IN bypass mode. Does this symptom appear at all hot faucets? If it’s common to all of them, this is the likely cause.
Condensation Conundrum
Dear RV Doctor:
My question deals with winter camping in the Northeast. There are four of us in an Itasca 31CP Type C motorhome. After a cold night, a lot of condensation forms inside the windows, especially on the cold front windshield. We leave the kitchen window open a few inches and the roof vent cracked as well, but we are running up against keeping the RV warm enough inside versus ventilated enough to not have it like a greenhouse in the morning.
I am also concerned about mold beginning to form in our lovely home-away-from-home. Any suggestions, short of getting a dehumidifier? We would be worried about what to do when dry camping and having to keep the dehumidifier running all night.
Marc Mularz
Via Email
Condensation is one of those RVing facts of life that unfortunately never can be eliminated, but it indeed can be minimized. The issue stems mainly from the RV’s construction and insulation limitations; that is, thin walls and typically lots of windows. Although certain RVs are better insulated than others, some degree of condensation is inevitable, since the air inside the RV is almost always warmer than the air outside, especially during the winter months.
Several methods can be employed to keep condensation to a minimum. You’re already doing one of the best by keeping a window and a roof vent cracked a bit to take advantage of natural convection. You might also install an insulated vent cover under any other 14-inch vent in the ceiling. The thin plastic lid, minimal seal, and screen do little to minimize the temperature differential between indoors and outside. Covering all vent openings at the ceiling (except the one you leave cracked open) will help to insulate the coach. On chilly, rainy nights, set the furnace to a lower temperature setting.
Also consider using a dehumidifier. I personally favor the H2Out, a renewable dehumidifier that uses no electricity and does not require dumping of water it collects. To read my review of the H2Out, visit http://www.rvdoctor.com/2014/12/combating-condensation-inside-rv.html;
Combined, these methods will help reduce your moisture problem and further prevent the formation of mold.