Odor Origins
Dear RV Doctor:
I attended one of your recent motorhome maintenance talks. You spoke about ways to reduce or eliminate sewer odor. One recommendation was to replace the P-traps with HepvO waterless sanitary valves. While I can see the value in getting rid of gray-water odor, I thought the real sewer odors came from the black-water system, which just has the toilet connected to it. I have not used a motorhome yet, so all of this is theoretical for me, although I have smelled it in marine applications. Can you please clarify?
David Anderson
Puyallup, Washington
Good for you for doing your due diligence before getting a motorhome! It is true that odors emanate from both the gray-water tank and the black-water tank. The P-trap is the first line of defense regarding gray-tank odors. But it is also common to find a sink connected to the black-water toilet tank. It’s permitted by the RV standards. This means that even black-tank odors can enter the RV through a sink with an improperly filled P-trap. The HepvO takes care of that. I invite you to go online and watch a video at http://hepvo.com/resources/videos. You’ll see why I think this product can help.
Delam Dilemma
Dear RV Doctor:
We looked at a fairly nice-looking motorhome recently, but after reading about delamination, we’re not sure if we will purchase it. Several spots on the passenger side were soft. A couple of spots on the roof, though smaller, were the same. The price was pretty good, but should we stay away from this?
Ed Aaron
Via email
Delamination of the sidewalls and roofing can become a serious repair scenario. It all depends on how pervasive it is and how long the delamination has been happening. Properly eliminating all delamination usually results in complete replacement of the affected areas. But without inspecting the damage, I’m guessing.
If you’re serious about that coach, I’d have an RV body/collision expert take a look to determine how insidious it is and what recommendations might be suggested. It still might be a good deal, since the delamination can become a bargaining chip to help determine the final purchase price. If a reputable dealer is selling the coach, it’s possible they may offer to repair the delamination. It’s unlikely, however, since the replacement of sidewalls and roofing can be quite extensive, and some shops are not equipped properly to handle that type of large repair. Proceed, but proceed with caution. A detailed inspection by an expert is certainly warranted.
To Chem Or Not To Chem
Dear RV Doctor:
My husband and I are soon taking delivery of a 2016 Leisure Travel Unity 24TB motorhome, built on a diesel Mercedes-Benz Sprinter chassis. In your professional opinion, should we opt for the $1,500 chemical plan our dealer is offering?
Kat Barton
Via Email
I assume you are referring to an exterior sealant/protection plan. Unfortunately, I’ve not heard anything about the effectiveness of such a treatment. Personally, I tend to view all chemical-type, exterior applications with skepticism, at least until further investigative diligence. I believe if regular maintenance is performed attentively, such a treatment may not be necessary. Then again, it just may be. I would ask for references of previous customers and then contact them and ask their opinion of its value. That way, you’ll get more unbiased answers that may help you decide.
Tie Breaker?
Dear RV Doctor:
We just bought a 30-foot Safari Type C motorhome. We want to stabilize the coach so this big guy doesn’t rock the boat when we’re boarding it and walking around. I think I want to bolt or weld four scissor jacks to the frame. Our extended and very opinionated camping family says we need only two scissor jacks in the rear. Care to wade in and break the tie?
Dan Bessmer
Via Email
Well, I don’t know if it will break the tie, but I feel you’d need at least three areas of support in order to curb the motion you speak of. Two stable points at the rear simply would not be enough with four individual tire positions. It’s all about the bouncing effect of the tires and suspension. Then again, I would not recommend simple scissor jacks, either. I feel you’d be better served with an aftermarket leveling jack installation. Scissor jacks are not designed for leveling, and most motorhomes do require some element of leveling as well as support or stabilization. If possible, I’d consider an electric or hydraulic jack system. Having said that, sturdy scissor jacks will definitely help with stabilization, just not leveling. But you’d need to support all four corners of the vehicle in order to be effective. So, I guess I broke the tie to a certain extent, but added more expense to the discussion.
Concrete Conundrum
Dear RV Doctor:
I am going to pour a concrete drive and an RV pad for a motorhome. The contractor says that he usually pours only 4-inch-thick, 3,000-psi concrete. I told him that I thought something more would be needed, especially if I got a diesel pusher. He offered two alternatives: a 6-inch pour for the drive and parking pad, with 8-inch-wide and 8-inch-deep footers around it, using 3,500-psi concrete and fiber mesh. This would, however, increase the cost. The second option is to keep it at 4 inches thick, but thicken the edges to 6 inches and use 3,500-psi concrete and the fiber mesh. This would increase the cost as well but be less than the first option. In your experience, which option sounds best?
Steven Jenkins
Jacksonville, Florida
Though I’m not a concrete contractor by any stretch, I poured plenty of slabs when I worked in the mobile home industry and during my time in the Seabees. A lot depends on the substrate/soil condition in your geographical area; the deeper the footer, the less chance of stress cracks caused by a heavy coach. Though I lived in Jacksonville for a time, I cannot remember the average soil conditions or the water table specifics. For mobile homes on the Gulf Coast of Florida, we always poured a 6-inch slab with deeper and wider footers. I’d say you’ll likely be safer with that first option. Keep in mind, this is just a guess, as I have no data for comparison. At least you’ll know you’ll be able to support any diesel pusher!
A couple members of Family Motor Coaching magazine’s Technical Advisory Committee also offered thoughts. One committee member said that for the past 14 years, a properly installed 4-inch slab of reinforced concrete has worked well for his 54,000-pound coach.
Another member said the answer depends on variables such as water table, subsoil mixture, water runoff, and the weight of the motorhome, as well as the method chosen to mitigate soil erosion.
Perhaps we’ll hear from our readers about what they’ve done when pouring a slab for their coaches. Anyone care to chime in?