By Gary Bunzer
Vinyl Planks
Dear RV Doctor:
I own a 2005 National RV Dolphin motorhome. The kitchen/living room is half tiled and half carpeted. We would like to replace the carpet with vinyl planks that look like wood. They are about 6 inches by 3 feet and are self-stick. The product is called TrafficMaster Allure Vinyl Plank Flooring, which features the GripStrip design; it’s available at Home Depot. This product is thin and flexible. A friend replaced his carpet with this product and has experienced no problems. He has an older National RV coach that employed a step-up slide mechanism. My coach, however, has a newer flat-floor mechanism. Will our slide operate properly with this thin material on the floor? My mechanic says that the slide wheels will tear the vinyl floor. I’m looking for another opinion.
Charlie Tornatore, F245899
Jensen Beach, Florida
I don’t see a problem installing the GripStrip planks in your coach, provided the flooring is prepped properly and the installation is completed according to the instructions. As thin as it is, there should be no problem with the slideout rollers transitioning easily over the flooring. The only exception might be a heavily loaded, full-wall slideout. I would apply a leveling compound “ramp” at the very edge of the plank where the slideout rollers are located.
Allure also manufactures a transition strip that can be applied to the outside edge of the plank. According to the installation instructions, Allure states that the product is for use in temperature-controlled environments only. In other words, if you store the motorhome in cold or hot climates, an adhesion problem may result. If you’re a full-timer, this should not be a concern. The adhesive is suitable for temperatures of 15 to 95 degrees Fahrenheit, but the manufacturer cautions against direct sunlight and tropical climates. Still, I feel a competent technician should readily be able to accomplish the installation. It would be prudent, however, to test the installation first, if possible.
There’s also a Lippert Components product called a Slide-Out Slicker (www.lci1.com/slideout-slicker). Though designed to be used within a carpeted coach, it can be modified and adapted to the Allure flooring easily enough. The product is used only when extending or retracting the slide room.
Editor’s note: Ernie Ekberg, an FMCA member who installs RV floor coverings for a living (www.ernieekbergflooring.net), agrees with the RV Doctor’s response. Before installing the planks, Ernie recommends operating the slides with the planks laid loosely. If the slide moves the planks, use either the Slide-Out Slicker or a couple of pieces of luxury vinyl plank so that the slide can retract on them instead of on the new floor; those pieces can be stored under or beside the couch when the slide is open.
Weird Voltages
Dear RV Doctor:
I have a Newmar diesel motorhome with 50-amp electric service, and I’m plugged into 50-amp service in a park. I have a Progressive Industries Electrical Management System (EMS) installed for protection. When I load the system with electric heaters, coffee maker, hot plate, etc., the voltage on leg two drops to 109 volts at 35 amps, while the voltage on leg one rises to 131 volts and 5 amps. At that point, the EMS cuts the power to the motorhome until the high voltage is reduced. When I unload leg two, the voltages return to normal.
I have talked with Progressive Industries representatives regarding troubleshooting the EMS, and it’s working fine. I also had the power company check the incoming voltage to the park pedestal where I am connected. It measured well within tolerance at 125/123 volts.
I have plugged into more than one pedestal in the park, with the same results. The problem seems to be somewhere between the end of my plug inward. Any suggestions?
PAUL McCaulley
Via email
Without actually taking electrical measurements and running some tests, I can tell you I’ve seen similar symptoms produced by a loose connection on the neutral conductor, somewhere between the pedestal and the panelboard distribution box. In fact, any loose connection on either of the hot conductors also could cause the same symptom. It could be a loose connection in the transfer switch, shore cord “J” box, circuit breakers, neutral buss bar, or anywhere in the motorhome wiring system.
I’d first eliminate the pedestal and power source as the problem. Be sure you have true 240 volts AC coming to the 50-amp receptacle. A close inspection and a few simple measurements between all four of the contacts in the receptacle might reveal a miswired receptacle or a damaged, oxidized contact inside the receptacle.
Though you may have 120 volts AC at the pedestal, be sure you can actually measure 240 volts across the two hot legs at the receptacle. If you measure 0 volts AC, that means the two hot wires in that receptacle are wired to the same 120-volt phase, and it was just jumpered from one side to the other.
The fact you’ve tried other pedestals in that campground does not guarantee the park is wired correctly. I’ve seen a campground that had one whole miswired circuit that fed multiple sites. To see how to perform the various measurements at the pedestal, visit https://youtu.be/Led8UIMtbI8.
Also look closely for worn or broken components at the 50-amp receptacle. The same goes on the male end of your shore cord. If you have access to a clamp-around ammeter, I’d love to know the amperage draw on all three conductors while you have a load on the system. If you’re not able to measure the current flow, this might be something to have done if all else fails. But I’m leaning toward a simple loose connection somewhere in the coach.
To check for the loose connection, first unplug the coach from shore power and disable the generator and inverter, if so equipped. Then follow the shore cord up to the first “J” box or connection inside the coach. Be sure the wires are stripped properly, the wire nuts are tight and taped, etc. Then continue on to the transfer switch, breaker box, and EMS. Be sure to tighten all the screws on the two hot legs, the neutral wires, and the ground wires at each component and at each black wire leaving each circuit breaker. Also have the GFCI tested. That device measures the imbalance between the hot and neutral conductors on that one circuit.
I’ll bet you’ll find some loose connections. Remember, that mobile house is bouncing down the road! Things do have a habit of working loose over time.
R-Value
Dear RV Doctor:
My wife and I hope to buy a 2007-2008 Fleetwood Revolution next year and have just begun educating ourselves. My question may sound a little odd. What R-values might the walls and ceiling have with this model? We love the Pacific Northwest and Canada and will be spending quite a bit of time in that area, so we’re concerned about staying warm, considering the average winter temperature in the Pacific Northwest is about 42 degrees!
Bob Ginn
Via email
With a background in construction and the Seabees, I didn’t think your question was odd at all. Here’s what I found: The sidewalls are rated R-6; the roof structure is R-8 to R-12, depending on the exact roof area. The flooring is rated at R-12. And you just might need every one of those Rs in the Pacific Northwest. If you feel a need to retain more heat, consider double-pane glass and insulating shades.