A seasoned RVer’s recommendations for what your kit should include.
By Mark Quasius, F333630
April 2019
A variation of Murphy’s Law might go something like this for RVers: The tool you need the most is the one you left at home. Of course, you can’t bring every tool or there won’t be room for anything else in the RV. Therefore, the key is to be prepared for problems that are most likely to arise, while also keeping in mind your mechanical abilities.
Because an RV experiences more vibration and stress than a sticks-and-bricks home, every RV owner should be ready to perform simple repairs or, in some cases, make a temporary fix. When repairs are beyond your capabilities, the best tool is a credit card or a good road-service plan.
I’ve grouped tools into basic, intermediate, and advanced kits to help you decide what to carry in your RV.
Basic
Screwdriver kits.
Screwdriver. You may own a variety of screw heads: slotted, Phillips, Torx, socket head (also called Allen), or Robertson (square drive) screws. Rather than carry many screwdrivers, I recommend a multibit screwdriver with replaceable bit tips that are inserted into a magnetic holder, which helps to prevent the screw from falling off the tip. The driver and a selection of ¼-inch hex bit tips may come in a case, and usually there is room for extra bits, sockets, and adapters. A ratcheting screwdriver is easier and more comfortable to use. In addition, a drill adapter allows you to use the bits with a cordless drill or impact driver, so a task can be completed more quickly and with less effort. I also carry a small right-angle ratchet that takes those bits, which allows me to get into areas where a regular screwdriver is too tall.
Wrenches, socket sets, and pliers. Combination wrenches with both open and box ends allow you to use either end on a bolt head or hose fitting. It’s not necessary to buy the largest set, because most repairs will require a size of ¾ inch or less. Add a 12-inch adjustable wrench for odd or larger sizes or when you need a second wrench of the same size.
Pliers and wrenches.
Socket sets are another must-have item. A 3/8-inch drive combination set that includes metric and SAE sockets in standard and deep well sizes should cover 80 percent of your needs.
Pliers often are used when wrenches should be employed instead. However, a pair of locking pliers can grab a bolt with a rounded-off head, turn a pipe, or bend a metal tab. Large tongue-and-groove pliers (such as Channellock brand) can be used on seized garden hose fittings or other larger items that need some grip. Needle-nose pliers can be used to grip small objects, and diagonal cutter pliers will cut wire or nylon cable ties with ease.
Hammers. If you are going to carry only one hammer, make it big. A good 4-pound hammer is the best choice. You can always tap lightly with a big hammer, but you can’t hit hard with a light hammer, so skip the smaller ball-peen hammers.
Pry bars. Crowbars can be useful for prying up leveling jacks that are slow to retract or anything else that needs a little nudging.
Multimeter.
Multimeter . Every RV owner’s toolbox should include a simple digital multimeter, which can provide a variety of electrical measurements. It can check AC voltage at a campground pedestal or test for dead circuits in the RV. It can be used to test DC circuits; you can check battery voltage, for instance, or determine whether you have power at a switch or fixture. A multimeter also can measure resistance, which can be useful in determining the condition of an electric heating element. In addition, a multimeter can be used to test fuses as well as the continuity in light fixtures and other electrical devices. (For more information, see “The Indispensable Multimeter,” February 2019, page 32.)
Crimp-style connectors and a multipurpose wiring tool. These may be useful for correcting problems that you discover with the multimeter.
Tire pressure gauge.
Tire pressure gauge. The important task of checking tire pressures should be performed frequently, so invest in a quality gauge. Mechanical units with the trucker’s foot to reach inner duals are fairly reliable. Accurate digital units are now available at reasonable prices. (For information about determining an RV’s proper tire pressure, see “Maximizing RV Tire Life,” April 2017, page 50.)
Filter wrench. You probably won’t change your vehicle’s oil when traveling, but diesel motorhome owners run the chance of picking up a batch of fuel with water in it. If that occurs, you may need to change the fuel filter. Therefore, it’s wise to carry a spare fuel filter, as well as a filter wrench. Sizes vary, so be sure to buy a wrench that fits your filter.
Miscellaneous: Always carry a utility knife with replaceable blades, as well as duct tape or EternaBond tape.
Intermediate
You’ll need a few more tools if you have a bit more of a do-it-yourselfer attitude and you want to make more than quick, temporary repairs.
More sockets. The basic 3/8-inch drive set mentioned earlier is a good start, but if you want to handle smaller nuts, such as those in the cockpit area, you’ll need a ¼-inch drive set. If you plan to work on a motorhome chassis, consider a ½-inch drive set. You also should add more combination wrenches. Keep in mind that you may need duplicates in the common sizes, such as 7/16 inch, ½ inch, 9/16 inch, and ¾ inch, so you can remove hose fittings or hold a bolt that has the same size nut.
Cordless drill.
More power tools. A cordless drill and drill bit set is a must, and can be used to drive your screwdriver bits or small sockets. Cordless or pneumatic impact wrenches can complete repair tasks much faster and with less effort. Impact wrenches, which are more powerful than impact drivers, are useful for doing chassis work, but they should not be used with smaller-diameter fasteners such as socket head screws.
Better wiring tools. Electrical issues generally are the biggest gremlins in an RV. It may be faster and easier to grab a 12-volt test light to check a fuse or circuit than to take out the multimeter. Carry a small assortment of wire terminals. To make better quality repairs, replace the multipurpose crimper/stripper/cutter with a quality barrel crimper, diagonal cutters, and wire stripper. For connections that must be sealed against the elements to prevent corrosion, keep heat shrink tubing and a heat gun on hand. (For more information, see “Low-Voltage Wiring Repairs,” April 2018, page 48.)
Refractometer.
Refractometer. Radiator coolant must be checked for freeze protection level, which can be done with an antifreeze hydrometer. If you have flooded batteries, you may need to check each cell’s specific gravity, so another hydrometer designed for battery acid is required. But rather than carry two hydrometers, I suggest you buy a refractometer. Refractometers are compact; accurate (because they don’t require temperature compensation); and less likely to break than hydrometers, which are bulky and often made of glass. A refractometer can check battery electrolyte levels as well as coolant freeze levels. (For more information, see “The Versatile Refractometer,” September 2018, page 38.)
Caulking gun, a quality sealant, and self-leveling caulk . If a leak appears, you can reseal it correctly rather than reach for the duct tape. Don’t forget a scraper to remove the old sealant. (For more information, see “RV Sealants,” January 2017, page 60.)
Advanced
You’ll need even more tools if you really enjoy getting your hands dirty (and in that case, you’d better add some waterless hand soap to the list). But here is where the law of diminishing returns comes into play. The tools cost more and are used less often than basic tools.
To properly tighten lug nuts on a Type A motorhome, approximately 475 pound-feet of torque most likely will be required. Once the lug nuts have been in place for a while, even more torque will be needed to remove them. To accomplish this, a person who can apply 100 pound-feet of torque per foot of leverage would need a wrench with at least a 5-foot handle.
Torque multiplier.
Or, get a torque multiplier , which increases the torque that can be applied by the user, generally in ratios of 4:1 to 6:1. Thus, a person who exerts between 80 pound-feet and 110 pound-feet of torque can achieve those 475 pound-feet on the output end. You can use a standard ½-inch drive torque wrench to properly tighten the lug nuts and an 18-inch breaker bar to break them loose when removing them. Do not use an impact wrench on a torque multiplier; it will damage the multiplier’s gears.
A clamp-on ammeter increases the functionality of a multimeter, although higher-end units are available that already include advanced capabilities. Most multimeters can measure current flow using the device’s existing probes, but generally this is limited to no more than 10 amps. A clamp-on ammeter measures higher amperages passing through an electrical circuit, such as alternator output, battery charger output, or inverter draws.
Plastic welder.
Other tools to consider include a propane leak detector; a pliers tool that removes the plastic caps over lug nuts without scratching the plastic chrome finish; a plastic welder for repairing stripped screw holes in instrument panel housings and for repairing cracked plastic trim or brackets; and a riveting tool and selection of .
At one time or another, every RV owner faces a big repair job that requires a professional. But most people can handle many of the smaller issues that pop up. The key is to select tools that match your ability and desire to handle repairs yourself.