Philadelphia’s largest municipal park brims with history, art, natural escapes, and other delights.
By Sally B. Weigand
September 2020
What occupies more than 2,000 acres within Pennsylvania’s largest city? Philadelphia’s Fairmount Park — a showcase of antique houses, outdoor sculptures, fountains, gardens, the nation’s first zoo, a world-class art museum, a broad river, two music venues, and so much more. Many Philadelphians say this vast greenspace resembles a country escape.
The Franklin Institute
The largest parcel of land in the city’s park system, Fairmount Park follows the Schuylkill River (pronounced “scoo-kill”) from the Philadelphia Art Museum, perched on land William Penn declared a “faire mount.” The water divides the park into east and west sections that encompass 650 acres and 1,400 acres, respectively. Trails for walking, running, or biking traverse its miles. From the art museum to the center of the city, the greenspace continues along the broad and beautiful Benjamin Franklin Parkway, home to museums, public art, and festivals, and where colorful flags of foreign nations dance in the breeze.
Reminder: Access to many of these facilities may have changed because of coronavirus restrictions. Check before you visit.
East Fairmount Park
Boathouse Row features charming structures from the Victorian era. They are especially eye-catching at night, outlined with lights that reflect in the Schuylkill River. Regattas bring spectators to the banks of the river to cheer on the “Schuylkill Navy” on many weekends. Noteworthy regattas include two in May: the Dad Vail, the largest such collegiate event, and the Stotesbury Cup, the world’s largest high school rowing competition.
Cathedral Basilica of Saints Peter and Paul
The Fairmount Water Works sits on the river behind the Philadelphia Museum of Art. One does not usually associate a mussel hatchery with a large city, but you will find one here; the historic building now houses an interpretive center that launched a mussel hatchery program to repopulate the Schuylkill River. During a tour, discover the past of the neoclassical-style waterworks; tour the Benjamin Franklin Parkway with a guide; or learn about the statuary and gardens along the Schuylkill.
West Fairmount Park
At the Horticulture Center, visitors tour a greenhouse, an exhibition hall, a 27-acre arboretum, and outdoor demonstration gardens. No admission fee is charged for this green-thumb space.
Memorial Hall was constructed for the 1876 Centennial Exposition, the first World’s Fair to be held in the United States. Today this elaborate Beaux-Arts building is home to the Please Touch Museum, designed to enable children to learn through play.
Rodin Museum
Shofuso Japanese House and Garden reflects the history of Japanese culture in Philadelphia. The house was constructed in Japan, utilizing traditional techniques and materials, and displayed at the Museum of Modern Art in New York before being brought to its final home in Fairmount Park. Three gardens beautify the site: a hill and pond garden, a tea garden, and a courtyard garden.
Both Park Sections
Historic Homes
A rich history endows Fairmount Park’s mansions, which were built more than 200 years ago. They served as country homes for summer living and offered relief from the city’s heat for the well-to-do. Board the Big Bus operated by the Philadelphia Trolley Works and Carriage Company and stop for a visit at each house; or, drive your own car using the map supplied with your entrance ticket. During December, the homes are resplendent with holiday finery.
Cedar Grove is filled with the furniture, decorations, and daily articles used by generations of the family who lived here. The home has been enlarged several times since it was built in the 1740s. Unique for its time are the kitchen’s water boiler and an indoor “bake oven.” Outdoors, volunteers maintain a Colonial-era herb garden.
A yellow exterior and an octagonal wing make stately Laurel Hill stand out. Eighteenth-century furnishings include musical instruments. Situated on a bluff overlooking the river endows it with a prime location. Concerts by Candlelight presented in the octagonal music room on summer evenings are a delight. A dog is reputed to have discovered the first wild truffles in America on the property; the dog’s owner served as chef for the minister to France, who lived here.
Academy of Natural Sciences of Drexel University
A pair of curving steps ascends to the elegantly arched front door of Lemon Hill. Oval rooms sport curved fireplaces and doors. From its porches, visitors enjoy views of downtown and Boathouse Row. The acquisition by the city of this property was the foundation of Fairmount Park.
In 1775, future U.S. President John Adams declared Mount Pleasant “the most elegant seat in Pennsylvania,” as was the intention of its first owner, John Macpherson. Georgian symmetry adds to the formal appearance. Visitors are treated to masterpieces of architectural carving in the interior. Benedict Arnold, a subsequent owner, presented Mount Pleasant to his bride as a wedding gift.
The largest of the park houses, Strawberry Mansion, was once a dairy farm specializing in strawberries and cream. A large collection of antiques decorates the interior. Don’t miss the attic, where numerous antique toys and dolls are displayed.
Woodford started life as a one-story brick house in 1756. A rear addition and second floor enlarged the stately home in 1771. An elegant three-piece Venetian window above the entrance door enhances the front of the house. Throughout the residence, more than 1,000 Colonial objects collected by Philadelphia heiress and historian Naomi Wood are displayed. More recently, a community garden and orchard were added to reflect original plantings of the estate.
Please Touch Museum
If you would like to visit most of the houses on one walk, the Boxers’ Trail is a 3.8-mile route that connects you to all of the houses on the east side of the river, except Lemon Hill.
Perhaps when you visit, you will be enticed by entertainment performed at the Mann Center for the Performing Arts and the Dell Music Center outdoor concert venues. Plan a picnic dinner on the grass before an event.
Benjamin Franklin Parkway (The Artistic Mile)
Philadelphia’s art and culture center lies along this route, which was patterned after the famed Avenue des Champs-Élysées in Paris, France. Fountains, statues, monuments, and small parks help to lend a formal air.
The Philadelphia Museum of Art ranks among the best such facilities in the world. If you enter the impressive 1928 building by ascending the broad expanse of steps in front, you may feel like boxer Rocky Balboa of cinema fame. Commanding an eye-filling view down the Benjamin Franklin Parkway, this U-shaped structure resembles a Greek temple. Look for the sculptures that enhance the pediment of the north wing. Dine, shop, and be entertained in addition to viewing traditional art from many countries, an armor collection, textiles, photography, architecture, and changing special exhibits.
Shofuso Japanese House and Garden, awash in cherry blossoms each spring, offers serenity both indoors and out.
A smaller version of the famed sculpture The Thinker (the original resides in France), announces that you are at the Rodin Museum, which houses one of the largest collections of Auguste Rodin’s work outside of Paris. The 1929 Beaux-Arts building and garden recently underwent a three-year renovation.
An uproar erupted when the extensive collection of Dr. Albert C. Barnes, a native Philadelphian known as an inventor and collector of modern art, was moved from the suburbs to the Benjamin Franklin Parkway. In addition to paintings, The Barnes houses metalwork, furniture, jewelry, and pottery. Dr. Barnes assembled the objects in eclectic groups to draw attention to visual similarities.
Where can you see ancient dinosaurs as well as live animals? The Academy of Natural Sciences of Drexel University is the place, with attractions geared to all ages. Other highlights include a tropical butterfly-filled garden, a children’s discovery center, and a fossil dig.
At The Franklin Institute, visitors can dissect seeds, walk through a heart, take in an impressive Imax show, watch live science experiments, and more. As you enter the large rotunda, a 20-foot marble statue of Benjamin Franklin greets you. The museum also houses his national memorial.
Strawberry Mansion is considered one of the largest and grandest of Fairmount Park’s historic homes.
Stop for a soothing rest with the sound of running water at the massive Swann Memorial Fountain at Logan Circle. It represents the area’s waterways: Wissahickon Creek and the Delaware and Schuylkill rivers.
The copper dome rising above the Benjamin Franklin Parkway is the top of the Cathedral Basilica of Saints Peter and Paul, constructed in 1864 in the Roman Corinthian style. Side altars venerate Philadelphia natives St. John Neumann and St. Katharine Drexel. Tours are given daily when the Basilica is open.
Several walking trails lead around various sections of Fairmount Park: the Belmont Plateau Trail (which provides a dramatic view of the city’s skyline); the Schuylkill River Trail; the Old Trolley Trail; and the previously mentioned Boxers’ Trail, the latter used by boxer Joe Frazier while training to fight Muhammad Ali.
If you are visiting in the summer, a Parks on Tap event may be taking place. Normally a “traveling beer garden,” 2020 events were being held at two stationary venues: the Fairmount Horticulture Center and the Water Works. In addition to wine, beer on tap, nonalcoholic beverages, and snacks, entertainment enlivens the evening. Dogs are welcome. At this writing, a check-in process was in effect. Check www.parksontap.com for details.
Woodford Mansion features more than 1,000 Colonial objects and furnishings.
Those traveling with children do not want to miss some other fun Fairmount Park attractions: the Philadelphia Zoo, Philly Pumptrack, Smith Memorial Playground & Playhouse, Paines Skate Park, and the 800,000-gallon John B. Kelly pool (named for Princess Grace’s father).
The Fairmount Park Commission oversees an 1,800-acre tract in the Wissahickon Valley. When the road that parallels Wissahickon Creek was closed, it was renamed Forbidden Drive, because vehicular traffic is not permitted. This popular region attracts hikers, bikers, anglers, birders, and equestrians to its peaceful surroundings.
Visitors to the Philadelphia region will remember fondly their time spent in the huge oasis that is Fairmount Park.
Practicalities
Fairmount Park Conservancy
(215) 988-9334
Email: info@myphillypark.org
http://myphillypark.org
The Fairmount Park Conservancy leads and supports efforts to improve Philadelphia’s parks, including the properties described in this article.
Founded in 1859 as America’s first zoo, today the Philadelphia Zoo provides a home for nearly 1,300 animals on its 42-acre campus.
The best times to visit Philadelphia are spring and fall. Summer days can be lovely, or hot and humid.
Public city transportation (SEPTA) will drop you off at the Benjamin Franklin Parkway museums, the Philadelphia Art Museum, the Please Touch Museum, and the Philadelphia Zoo. Phlash, the tourist bus, stops at all of those attractions, plus Shofuso Japanese House and Garden. One-day and two-day passes are available. Seniors and children under 4 ride free.
Area Camping
Philadelphia
Campus Park and Ride
(267) 324-9691
www.campusparkandride.com
Although devoid of trees and nature, this makes a convenient place to park your RV while visiting Philadelphia. The gated facility has closed-circuit TV cameras and offers electric and water hookups, Wi-Fi, rest rooms, showers, and a dump station. Daily rates range from $30 to $50; towed vehicles cost an additional $13 per day. A 24-hour shuttle operates to SEPTA, public city transportation, or to Phlash, the tourist bus.
Clarksboro, New Jersey
Philadelphia South/
Clarksboro KOA
(800) 562-1727
https://koa.com/campgrounds/philadelphia-south/
Pilesgrove, New Jersey
Four Seasons Family Campground
(856) 769-3635
https://fourseasonscamping.com/
From this region, you can get to downtown Philadelphia quickly on the PATCO high-speed line.
Philadelphia Suburbs
French Creek State Park
Elverson
(610) 582-9680
www.dcnr.pa.gov/StateParks/FindAPark/FrenchCreekStatePark/Pages/default.aspx
Brandywine Creek Campground
Downington
(610) 942-9950
www.pacamping.com/campgrounds/brandywine-creek-campground
Hidden Acres
Coatesville
(610) 857-3990
www.hiddenacrespa.com
Birchview Farm Campground
Coatesville
(610) 384-0500
www.birchviewcampground.com
Philadelphia/West Chester KOA
Coatesville
(610) 486-0447
https://koa.com/campgrounds/philadelphia
Chester County
Hibernia County Park
(610) 344-6415
www.chesco.org/1743/Hibernia-Park