It’s not too early to think about a spring visit to this ruggedly beautiful state park, not far from the Texas state capitol.
By Ann Bush
January 2021
Spring in Texas is the best time of year to catch Texas bluebonnets, migrating birds, and cool weather. Just 13 miles southwest of the Texas state capitol, in Austin, is McKinney Falls State Park, a wildlife bonanza with a secret.
Most people visit the park to see “Old Baldy,” a 500-year-old bald cypress tree, which stands 103 feet tall and whose trunk measures 195 inches around. Bald cypress trees rule the park, and are so named because they turn bright orange early in the fall and lose their needlelike leaves.
The fast-moving waters of the Onion and Williamson creeks flow through the park, supporting these exceedingly tall trees, along with a hoard of deer, raccoons, armadillos, squirrels, and many bird species. Bring your fishing poles to catch catfish, Guadalupe bass, white bass, and sunfish. Fishing is available in Onion and Williamson creeks. (A fishing license is not required to fish from shore within Texas state park boundaries.) Onion Creek is also open for swimming.
Texas bluebonnets, the state flower, fill fields with vibrant color in March and April.
The area was inhabited more than 8,500 years ago, as evidenced by artifacts left by American Indian tribes; which groups occupied this area remains a mystery. When Spain ruled this part of the United States in the 1600s, major roads were constructed throughout Texas to encourage settlements. In 1850, the McKinney family ranch was located near one of these historic roads, El Camino Real de los Tejas; a part of the road ran through what is now the park.
Thomas McKinney, a native Kentuckian, was one of the first colonists to relocate to Texas, and he later became a state senator. Park visitors can see remains of the McKinney homestead, which include the two-story limestone house, a horse trainer’s cabin, a gristmill, and an assortment of stone walls. After McKinney’s death, his wife, Anna, sold the property to James Woods Smith. Several generations of the Smith family farmed the land, eventually donating it to the state of Texas in 1973.
According to the McKinney Falls website, the busiest months in the park are from March to November. But early April may be the best time to visit, when the park’s namesake waterfall splashes amongst bluebonnets and cacti — a distinctive native Texan landscape. Graceful great egrets outline the creek beds, busy replenishing their tired bodies with nourishment during their migration back from South America. But the secret rarely revealed by the locals is the best reason to visit in spring: the great blue heron rookery. During the first week in April, little chicks just a few weeks old will pop their fluffy heads from the nest as mama herons bring them food.
Hiking and biking can be pursued along nearly nine miles of trails that wind through the Hill Country woods. These include the 2.8-mile Onion Creek Hike and Bike Trail; its hard surface nicely accommodates road bikes and strollers. Hikers may want to tackle the Rock Shelter Trail, which gives a glimpse of where early visitors camped.
Observant park visitors may be rewarded with sightings of great blue herons, sometimes guarding chicks in their nests.
Youngsters can complete the Junior Ranger Activity Journal, which is available at park headquarters and may be downloaded from the website. All ages might like to try their hand at geocaching in the park.
McKinney Falls has 81 campsites with 30-amp or 50-amp electrical hookups, water, picnic tables, and fire rings. Rest rooms with showers are nearby. Almost every weekend, park rangers offer a workshop or presentation at the rock-hewn amphitheater. A group hall is available for rental.
And, with the park’s location within Texas’ capital city, McKinney Falls makes a great base camp from which to explore other Lone Star State treasures.
More Info
McKinney Falls State Park
5808 McKinney Falls Parkway
Austin, TX 78744
(512) 243-1643
https://tpwd.texas.gov/state-parks/mckinney-falls
Note: Before you visit, check the park website for potential updates related to the coronavirus outbreak.