Adirondack Park embraces millions of acres of natural wonderland, treasured by locals and visitors alike.
By Anna Lee Braunstein
April 2022
Forever Wild” is a term that describes the amazing Adirondack Mountains of northeastern New York. It is also the law. Those two words, written into the New York State Constitution in 1894, following the creation of the Adirondack Park Enabling Act in 1892, mean no new construction, no tree cutting, no new roads within the publicly owned areas of the park. Among the forests, waterways, and wetlands are man-made areas, but wild beauty is paramount.
Adirondack Park encompasses 6 million acres; the state of New York owns approximately 2.6 million of those. This is the largest publicly protected area in the contiguous United States, bigger than Yellowstone, Glacier, the Everglades, and the Grand Canyon combined. No entrance fees are charged, and no “park gates” close at night. Also dotted amidst the trees and along the rivers are less natural but still pleasurable destinations. There are more than 100 small towns in the region.
In the town of Wilmington, nature doesn’t call: it shouts. In 1927 a change to the Forever Wild law opened up Whiteface Mountain for greater access. Franklin D. Roosevelt, New York governor at the time, authorized a road honoring war veterans to be built to the top of the mountain. Today, a drive up Whiteface Mountain Veterans’ Memorial Highway to the 4,867-foot summit of New York’s fifth-highest peak affords a spectacular 360-degree view.
The top of Whiteface Mountain can be reached in two ways. The easier of the two is to drive up the highway, walk through a 426-foot tunnel, and take an elevator up 27 stories. Exit the elevator in Summit House, where displays tell of the science and extreme weather of the area. Then step outside to be awestruck. For a more challenging trip up, hike the 9.3-mile forest trail. Additional trails cover 22 miles and include two other mountain peaks.
The Cloudsplitter Gondola Ride provides stunning views of the Whiteface Region. Rides at Whiteface Adventure Zone, along with disc golf and even yoga, offer more fun activities on the mountain. And when hunger strikes, there are several choices for a snack or a meal while continuing to enjoy the amazing views.
This area abounds with wildlife. As many as 100 species of birds nest in the forests. During a quiet moment, the flutelike song of the Bicknell’s thrush may be heard on Whiteface Mountain. The peak is home to one-quarter of these endangered birds. Several Important Bird Areas (IBA) have been designated by The Audubon Society in the area. Moose, bears, wolves, opossums, and other creatures have made their homes here as well. Remember that these are wild animals, and you are on their turf.
This land of vast natural wonders offers many ways to enjoy its beauty. Hikers can climb the 9ers — nine hikes ranging from 1.4 to 6.8 miles and all below 4,000 feet elevation. For a greater challenge, aim to join the Adirondack 46ers, those who climb all 46 designated peaks in the area. Along Ausable Falls, anglers await the abundant fish, rafters jounce on the water, and hikers immerse themselves in the canyons and forests.
Families enjoy being in and on the water at Wilmington Town Beach. The lakes and rivers are perfect for water-skiing, tubing, wake boarding, fishing, boating, canoeing, paddle boarding, kayaking, and more. Wilmington Bike Park, a kid-friendly skills park, is close to the beach. Pleasure riders can enjoy miles of beautiful trails. Photographers can take amazing pictures in all directions.
High Falls Gorge features mist, mountain air, and magnificent views above the Ausable River.
A different view of the natural beauty can be found at High Falls Gorge, above the Ausable River. Prior to the Forever Wild law, a series of paths, bridges, and glass platforms were erected over and along the river, allowing access to the waterfalls. Rocks and whirlpools continue to form and deepen holes. The song of the river accompanies travelers along “the most breath-taking 30-minute walk in the Adirondacks.” But you should stay longer and enjoy paths that range from an easy stroll to a brisk hike.
At North Pole, a small hamlet in Wilmington, Santa and his elves welcome visitors to Santa’s Workshop. The village, which opened in 1949, offers all the delights of the holiday. It was designed by artist Arto Monaco, who also participated in the creation of Disneyland. Here in the village, Santa and Mrs. Claus greet visitors to their home, and shops offer a variety of treats. At the post office you can send a letter to Santa or to your friends. You can ride a bobsled, an enormous ornament ball, or a Ferris wheel. Special events occur throughout the day. Culminate your visit with dinner and caroling by the campfire during Christmas in July. Santa’s Workshop is open from June through Labor Day and on weekends in December.
Santa’s Workshop, a theme park in the Wilmington hamlet of North Pole, offers holiday fun.
The village of Lake Placid took its place on the international map as the site of not one but two Winter Olympics, in 1932 and 1980. To recall the thrill of the Miracle on Ice, the U.S. hockey team’s 1980 victory over the Soviet Union, tour the Lake Placid Olympic Center, where the hockey and skating rinks are located.
Mt. Van Hoevenberg, site of the Olympic Sports Complex, offers rides at the bobsled/skeleton/luge track used during the Winter Olympics. In summer, the surrounding trails draw hikers, mountain bikers, and more. Aspiring biathletes can take lessons to familiarize themselves with this sport, which combines cross-country skiing and mountain biking.
The Olympic Sports Complex is also the site of the longest mountain roller coaster in the United States. The Cliffside Coaster travels a winding 1.4-mile track, with “drivers” controlling their own speed. The ride includes commentary about the 1980 Olympics and about bobsledding.
More thrills await at the Sky Flyer Zipline at the Olympic Ski Jumping Complex not far from town. The slower-paced Skyride, a state-of-the-art gondola, explores the ski jump area.
Luxury homes, or “camps,” are in tranquil locations along Lake Placid’s waterfront.
The town of Lake Placid falls under the Forever Wild designation, meaning there is limited access to its shore and to the “camps,” as the luxury homes along the water are called. Few roads run between the homes and are only on the southernmost section of the lake; by law, no more can be built. Thus, virtually everything residents need for these dwellings must be portaged in. The islands of Buck, Moose, and Hawk are only accessible by boat. The town overlooks scenic Mirror Lake, known for its cleanliness and serenity.
Lake Placid Boat Tours offers rides on the lake with magnificent views of these homes and of the forested region. You can learn about the area’s history, including the Great Camps, as several of the historic homes are known. The skipper recounts stories of the properties and their elite owners while also elaborating about one of the cleanest, deepest lakes in the world. On land, golfers can soak in the wondrous vista of mountains and lakes while being challenged by the courses.
The nearby village of Saranac Lake, situated around Flower Lake amidst the Adirondack Mountains, has both beautiful and serious origins. The peaceful beauty of the town and its pure air made it a healthful destination. In 1884 Dr. Edward Livingston Trudeau opened his Adirondack Cottage Sanitarium to treat tuberculosis patients. He went on to develop a curative regimen of rest, fresh air, and activities that attracted patients from throughout the world. The sanitarium was proud to be open to all, including Blacks, Hispanics, Asians, and Europeans. They bragged of welcoming anyone, from gangster to shopgirl.
Residents, visitors, and 19th-century tuberculosis patients have benefited from Saranac Lake’s healthful mountain environment.
Now known as the Saranac Laboratory Museum, the facility honors the work of Dr. Trudeau. Following a brief video, visitors take a self-guided tour of the lab to learn about treatment, as well as some of the famous patients, such as the wife of New York City Mayor Fiorello La Guardia and composer Bela Bartok. Many former patients remained in the area and established the shops and galleries that now attract tourists to the lovely town.
Robert Louis Stevenson, author of Treasure Island, Strange Case of Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde, and other adventure stories, came to Saranac Lake thinking he had TB. Dr. Trudeau found he did not. Calling Saranac “The Little Switzerland in the Adirondacks,” Stevenson moved into rooms in the Baker home, now known as the Robert Louis Stevenson Cottage. During the six months he was there, he wrote many successful poems and essays. He then left for California and on to the South Seas. After his death in Samoa, wealthy friends gathered one of the largest collections of his memorabilia and donated it for display in the home. The resident curator regales visitors with tales of Stevenson’s life and his travels abroad. The museum pays homage to the short life of a writer of great adventures.
A charming addition to the village is the Adirondack Carousel. The 24 native animals on this bright, colorful ride were carved and painted by local artists. Each animal has the New York State insect, a nine-spotted ladybug, carved into it. The ride enchants children and brings back warm memories for adults. In addition to the merry-go-round, children enjoy areas for playing and creating.
The Adirondack Carousel in Saranac Lake features hand-carved likenesses of animals indigenous to the area.
A short drive out of town heads to Saranac Lake, a mecca for boating and fishing. More than 2,000 acres are dotted with bays, ponds, and islands. Many places offer boat rentals. Access to four other lakes is possible via a series of locks. Two outfitters offer canoe and kayak rentals.
Beyond the beauty, these towns offer flavorsome delights. Excellent independent restaurants are scattered throughout the area. Wine and beer flows at local wineries and tasting rooms. Coffee can be enjoyed in small shops with great views. In Wilmington, small-batch handmade treats from Adirondack Chocolates melt in your mouth. During the summer, crowds line up at ice cream stands. For more food temptations, visit the many farmers markets. Day and evening entertainment includes concerts, plays, and festivals.
All who visit Adirondack Park, including the highlights described here, are no doubt grateful that it is a place of great natural beauty kept “Forever Wild.”
Adirondacks Info
Visit Adirondacks
www.visitadirondacks.com
High Falls Gorge
(518) 946-2278
www.highfallsgorge.com
Lake Placid Olympic Sites
(518) 523-1655
www.lakeplacidolympicsites.com
Santa’s Workshop
(518) 946-2211
www.northpoleny.com
Saranac Laboratory Museum
(518) 891-4606
www.historicsaranaclake.org
Whiteface Mountain
(518) 946-2223
www.whiteface.com
Campgrounds
Cascade Acres
Lake Placid
(800) 370-5151
(518) 523-2407
www.cascadeacres.com
Douglas Resort Campground
Au Sable Forks
(518) 647-8061
www.douglasresort.com
Draper’s Acres
Lake Placid
(518) 523-9322
www.drapersacres.com
Fish Creek Pond Campground
Saranac Lake
(518) 891-4560
www.dec.ny.gov/outdoor/24466.html
Lake Placid/Whiteface Mountain KOA Holiday
Wilmington
(800) 562-0368
(518) 946-7878
www.koa.com/campgrounds/lake-placid
McIntyres Campsite
Ausable Forks
(518) 647-8083
http://www.mcintyrescampsite.com
Wilmington/North Pole KOA Holiday
Wilmington
(518) 946-7733
www.northpoleresorts.com