Whether making a quick fix or a permanent repair, having the proper equipment is key.
By Mark Quasius, F333630
January 2015
Ask a guy what he wants for Christmas, Father’s Day, or his birthday and odds are the answer will not be socks, a tie, or a really cool sweater. The more likely choice: tools. Many of us just have to have more, because with the right tool, we can fix anything. Okay, sometimes our repairs make matters worse, but in our own minds we can pretty much correct the rotation of the Earth using items from a Snap-on Tools catalog.
Tools, in fact, can be real lifesavers. It’s a matter of matching selection of tools with your ability to use them, the job at hand, and your desire to do it yourself. Murphy’s Law dictates that whatever breaks will require the tool you didn’t bring along this trip, so it’s important to keep a basic selection in the motorhome at all times. For the really big stuff, you can reach for the cell phone and call road service, but you’ll save time and money by taking care of the little things, if you are equipped. I’ve broken down my choices for tools into three categories. Pick the one that suits you best based on your level of expertise and your commitment to DIY repairs.
Level One: Basic Tools
Everyone needs basic tools, because when it comes to RVs, things tend to happen. It may be as simple as a loose screw or a hinge that’s falling off. It may be a minor electrical issue or a loose bolt or hose clamp. A quick fix with the proper tool will get you back on the road quickly so you don’t have to wait for help. It may be a temporary repair or a permanent one, depending on the task.
Your number-one tool is always a screwdriver. There are many different screw head styles: slotted, Phillips, Torx, socket head, or square drive. That can mean carrying many screwdrivers. Fortunately, screwdriver kits with interchangeable bit tips are available. A small plastic case holds a ratcheting screwdriver handle with a selection of replaceable bit tips that handle a wide range of fasteners. A side benefit is that the magnetic bit tip holder helps keep the fastener in place. These sets generally come with a bit holder that can be inserted into a power drill to help ease the task and speed things up. I even carry a small set with a compact ratchet designed for bit tips that can get into tight spaces where a taller screwdriver won’t fit.
Of course, wrenches are always a necessity. Combination open-end and box-end wrenches give you the ability to use either end on a bolt head or hose fitting. A smaller selection of the most popular sizes — either SAE or metric or both, according to your motorhome’s needs — will handle most repairs. While a bit clumsier, an adjustable wrench generally can be used for other sizes.
Socket sets are another must. For a basic tool kit, I recommend a 3/8-inch-drive combination set that includes both metric and SAE sockets in both standard and deep-well sizes. That set will cover 80 percent of your needs.
Pliers are another necessity. These tools often are selected when wrenches should be employed instead, but they do have their uses. Good locking pliers can grab a bolt with a rounded-off head or be used to bend a metal tab. Large channel-lock pliers can be used on seized garden hose fittings or other larger items that need some grip. Needle-nose pliers can be used to grip small objects. A diagonal cutter will cut wire or nylon cable ties with ease.
Basic tools such as hammers and pry bars also are important. If you are going to carry only one hammer, make it big. A good 4-pound hammer is the best choice. You can always hit lightly with a big hammer, but you can’t hit hard with a light one, so skip the smaller ball-peen hammers. Crowbars can be useful for prying up leveling jacks that are slow to retract, or anything else that needs a little nudging. Couple this with a utility knife with replaceable blades, and your tool set is starting to come together.
Given that a majority of motorhome issues are electrical, and you can’t tell what’s wrong unless you do some diagnostics, a simple digital multimeter should be in every RV owner’s toolbox. It can check for AC voltage at the campground pedestal, and it can test for dead electrical circuits in the RV. It also can test DC circuits so you know if you have power at any switch, and it can check your battery voltage. A multimeter also measures resistance (in ohms), so you can determine the condition of an item such as an electric heating element. The multimeter can test fuses and can check for continuity in light fixtures or any other electrical device. If there is a problem, a handful of crimp-style connectors and a multipurpose wiring tool can be used to correct it.
To cap off the basic tool kit, add a tire pressure gauge and a filter wrench. Checking tire pressures on an RV is one of your most important tasks; it must be performed frequently, so invest in a good-quality gauge. Mechanical units with the trucker’s foot to reach inner dual tires are fairly reliable; accurate digital units also are available at reasonable prices. And while it’s not likely you’ll change your oil when traveling, if you drive a diesel motorhome, you run the chance of picking up a batch of bad fuel that has water in it. In that case, you may need to change your fuel filter. It’s always wise to carry a spare fuel filter, and you also will need a filter wrench so that you can replace the filter.
Level Two: Intermediate
This category is for those with more of a DIY attitude. They want to do a bit more than a quick fix; they want to make a permanent repair. This means more tools are required.
In terms of sockets, the basic 3/8-inch-drive set mentioned earlier is a good start, but if you want to handle smaller nuts, such as those found in the cockpit area, you’ll need a 1/4-inch-drive set. If you plan to work on your chassis, you’ll want to consider a large 1/2-inch-drive set. You’ll also want to add more combination wrenches. Keep in mind that you may need duplicates in the common sizes, such as 7/16, 1/2, 9/16, and 3/4 so that you can remove hose fittings or hold a bolt with the same size nut.
Adding power tools is also a good idea. After all, who doesn’t like power? A cordless drill and drill bit set are musts. Cordless or pneumatic impact wrenches can speed your work along.
Better wiring tools are also a big help. Sometimes it’s faster just to grab a 12-volt test light to check a fuse or circuit rather than bring out the multimeter. Carrying a small assortment of wire terminals is a plus. And you’ll make better repairs by replacing the multipurpose crimper/stripper/cutter with a quality barrel crimper, diagonal cutters, and wire stripper. For connections that need to be sealed against the elements, heat-shrink tubing and a heat gun will prevent those connections from corroding.
An antifreeze hydrometer will check the freeze protection level of radiator coolant. If you have flooded batteries, you may need to check each cell’s specific gravity; that requires a hydrometer designed for battery acid. Rather than carry two hydrometers — which are bulky and can easily be broken because of their glass construction — purchase a refractometer instead. It is compact and extremely accurate, because it compensates for temperature. It’s also less apt to break. One refractometer can handle battery electrolyte levels as well as coolant freeze levels.
Finally, it’s wise to carry a caulking gun and some tubes of silicone and self-leveling caulk. If a leak appears, you can reseal it correctly rather than reach for the duct tape. (Still, don’t forget the duct tape.) And you also should have a scraper to remove the old sealant.
Level Three: Advanced
If you really enjoy getting your hands dirty, you’ll need even more tools (and you’d better add some good, waterless hand soap to the list). At this point the law of diminishing returns comes into play. The tools will cost more, and you will use them less often than basic tools. But if you want to do the task they are designed for, you’ll need them on hand. Even if you don’t use them, it’ll be cool to be able to say you own them.
If you want to work with lug nuts on a Type A motorhome, you’ll likely need approximately 475 foot-pounds of torque to properly tighten them. Once they have been in place for a while, it’ll take even more torque to remove them. Given that the average guy can apply 100 foot-pounds of torque per foot of leverage, you’ll need a wrench with at least a 5-foot handle. Instead, get a torque multiplier. It will multiply your input torque, generally in the 4:1 to 6:1 ratio. That allows you to exert between 80 and 110 foot-pounds of torque to achieve those 475 foot-pounds on the output end. You can use a standard 1/2-inch-drive torque wrench to properly torque your lug nuts, or an 18-inch breaker bar to break them loose when removing them.
A clamp-on ammeter will increase the functionality of your multimeter, although dedicated units are also available. With probes clamped around the conductor, the ammeter will indicate how many amps are passing through a given electrical circuit.
Other tools to consider: a propane leak detector; lug nut trim cap pliers that can safely remove those plastic trim caps over your lug nuts without scratching the plastic chrome finish; a plastic welder that can repair stripped screw holes in instrument panel housings or cracked plastic trim or brackets; and a riveting tool and selection of rivets.
Again, the key is to match the tools to your ability to handle repairs and your desire to do it yourself. The point at which it’s time to call the professionals will vary with each individual. Then again, anybody can at least look the part of proficient pro by wearing a Snap-on Tools cap.