Big Sur’s Dramatic Nature

October 1, 2015

Autumn is a good time to see the sights along California’s Highway 1, with coastline peaks, bright sunsets, and endearing small towns.

By Susie Wall
October 2015

Many scenic spots can be found along California’s State Route 1 — the Pacific Coast Highway — but it is safe to say that the most striking is the section between the community of Big Sur and the town of Monterey. Travelers cruising along this stunning portion of the highway will meander between the Santa Lucia Mountains, blanketed with ancient redwoods, and the sheer cliffs of the rugged Pacific coast. Along the way, the road provides access to a collection of beautiful secluded beaches, a dizzying array of marine life, hiking opportunities, exceptional shopping, and one very cool aquarium.

The Road

The common element linking each of these features is a stretch of asphalt graced with many accolades. It has been dubbed an American National Scenic Byway and an All-American Road.

Despite its current fame, the road arose from humble beginnings because of a maritime disaster. On April 21, 1894, the SS Los Angeles ran aground near the Point Sur Lighthouse, and Dr. John L.D. Roberts was summoned to give aid to the survivors. As the good doctor lived some distance away in Monterey, it is said that he rode 3½ hours on horseback to reach the wreckage. This inspired him to champion construction of a road connecting Monterey to San Simeon, 90 miles to the south.

After a lengthy construction period — which included using convict labor from San Quentin Prison; assistance from locals, among them a young man named John Steinbeck; and a slight delay to accommodate World War I — the road was finally completed in 1937.

Some of the most recognizable and most architecturally impressive features of the road are its series of 33 bridges, the grandest of which is the Bixby Creek Bridge. Driving on this iconic span, which rises 280 feet above its namesake creek, is one of the great pleasures of traveling this section of Highway 1.

Today, as it was at the inception of the highway, travel can be treacherous during sudden rainstorms and heavy fog. Mudslides and rockslides are more common in winter and spring. Call the California Department of Transportation (CALTRANS) informational hotline for road conditions before traveling (888-836-0866). A towed vehicle, if available, provides the easiest access to all the adventures dotting the highway. As with other roads that incorporate twists and turns, some motorhomers prefer to use their coach, and others say it’s not worth the white knuckles. Either way, if you do drive along this portion of the Pacific Coast Highway, be kind and use the frequent turnoffs to allow traffic behind you to pass. Finally, be sure to fill up the fuel tank before you begin your journey.

Big Sur

The community of Big Sur may evoke the idea of a beach, but you will find no cabanas and umbrella drinks in this part of California — only stunning waterfalls, hidden coves, crashing waves, and basking elephant seals. The temperate climate is dictated by the Pacific Ocean; even summer mornings can be cool and foggy. The best time to visit is the spring or fall, as tourists crowd the road in the summer, and winter can bring heavy rainfall. This also means it may be construction season when you drive.

The majority of these beaches are state parks and require an entrance fee. Check the daily use fees listing at www.parks.ca.gov to avoid sticker shock when you arrive.

If you have seen photos of Big Sur, you may recognize McWay Falls in Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park. From the Overlook Trail, this thin thread of a waterfall can be seen plunging into McWay Cove, created by a long-forgotten landslide. The Overlook Trail is accessible to all, but if you are looking for more of a challenge, this park offers numerous other opportunities to hike high into the southernmost population of redwood forests where you will discover sweeping views of the Pacific Ocean. No motorhome camping is available here, by the way.

About 12 miles north of Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park is Pfeiffer Beach, often referred to as the most beautiful beach in California. The extreme power of nature is on full display as the violent Pacific surf crashes against gigantic rocks jutting out of the waves. However, officials recommend that RVs not travel the narrow, one-lane, two-mile-long road that leads from Highway 1 to the beach.

Nearby, Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park offers a quieter setting along the Big Sur River. On hot days, take a dip or a stroll along its banks, where you will be cloaked in draping oak and redwoods. There is quite a bit of history to explore in this park, as the Civilian Conservation Corps built many of the trails and structures, and the Pfeiffer family homestead still stands.

Pfeiffer Big Sur also offers lovely motorhome camping sites. It’s good to keep in mind, however, that nature has not been kind to California in recent years, and sites may be affected by mudslides, fires, and drought restrictions. A 32-foot length limit is in effect at the campground. Call (831) 667-2315 or visit www.parks.ca.gov/?page_id=570.

For other activities in Big Sur, tour the Point Sur Lighthouse to see where it all began with that fateful shipwreck, or explore the beach of Andrew Molera State Park on horseback. If you enjoy art, the Big Sur Chamber of Commerce website (www.bigsurcalifornia.org) provides a list of galleries with wares ranging from photography to clothing to locally sourced Big Sur jade.

Wildlife

As you head north along Highway 1 toward the communities of Carmel-by-the-Sea and Monterey, be prepared for wildlife sightings, thanks to the unique blend of creatures found both above and below. All along the road are many sizable pull-offs perfect to stop at and train your binoculars on a menagerie of seals, whales, condors, and otters.

Bird life around Big Sur ranges from bald eagles to double-breasted cormorants, but the most impressive sight is the California condor. By the late 1980s, the condor population in Monterey County had ceased to exist because of shootings, poisonings, electric power lines, egg collecting, and habitat loss. Thanks to reintroduction efforts by the Ventana Wildlife Society, the condor population is slowing returning. It is not unusual for wildlife watchers in the Big Sur area to be treated to numerous sightings.

And what a sight they are. With a face only a mother could love, these enormous black birds, some with reddish heads, can boast a 9½-foot wingspan. Look for them roosting in the treetops or feeding on a whale carcass on the beaches. For an educating look at these creatures, join the Ventana Wildlife Society (www.ventanaws.org) on its highly sought-after condor tours. To sign up, call (831) 455-9514 or email Cathy Hamilton at cathyhamilton@ventanaws.org.

On the completely opposite side of the adorable spectrum are the playful sea otters. Now found all along the coast, otters were nearly extinct by the early 1900s, until a colony of 50 was discovered near the Bixby Bridge in 1983. Thanks to protection efforts, their numbers have now climbed to around 3,000. Look for these sweet-faced furballs floating on their backs among the rafts of kelp forests and dining on their favorite food, abalone. Prime spotting locations are the California Sea Otter Game Refuge near the Point Sur Lighthouse or in the coves of Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park.

Numerous other species of animals can be found along the coast, from the massive elephant seal to migrating whales. Whale-watching along the Big Sur coast is especially top-notch, with migration for gray whales taking place over the winter. Blue whales and humpback whales travel through the area in warmer months, from spring through early winter.

Carmel-By-The-Sea

Twenty miles north of Big Sur is the lyrically named enclave of Carmel-by-the-Sea, or simply Carmel. Known for its celebrity residents and high price tags, Carmel is actually the perfect place to stretch your legs and shop for unique artwork while participating in some fabulous people-watching.

Spend the morning lounging on Carmel’s free city beach, observing surfers catch waves and playful dogs catch Frisbees. (This is a dog’s paradise, too, as most stores and restaurants welcome canines.) Then wander the streets toward town past whimsical houses sporting impeccably kept lawns. At Carmel Plaza, you can rub shoulders with shoppers at venerable establishments such as Tiffany & Co. and plan the perfect picnic to take to one of Carmel’s many parks. Motorhome parking is free and unlimited at the Vista Lobos public lot in the heart of town.

Monterey

To get a much better view of some of the wildlife you just saw along the road, and so much more that were not visible from your window, a stop at the world-class Monterey Bay Aquarium is a must. Watch a feeding of frolicking sea otters, touch the mysterious bat ray, be hypnotized by the floating iridescent moon jellies, or just sit back and watch the natural world unfold on the deck overlooking Monterey Bay. The aquarium is open year-round and offers behind-the-scenes tours in addition to its enormous collection of exhibits. Allow an entire day for an aquarium visit, as it offers so many things to see and do. For more information: (831) 648-4800; www.montereybayaquarium.org.

Once you have satisfied your need for all things aquatic, continue to explore the rest of Monterey. John Steinbeck’s old stomping grounds on Cannery Row now boast historic tours, quirky souvenir shops, and a namesake brewing company. Walk down the road to Fisherman’s Wharf where you can sign up for a whale tour, shop for local art in the galleries, or simply stroll the marina in the evening as the setting sun shoots brilliant orange and yellow light over the Pacific. Motorhome parking is available for a fee at both Fisherman’s Wharf (25-foot limit) and Cannery Row.

The call of the open road is as deafening as the crashing surf along the coast in Big Sur, California. Answer the call and you will discover yourself driving through quite possibly the most breathtaking and iconic scenery the West Coast has to offer.