Manually Extending A Slideout
Dear RV Doctor:
The slideout motor on my Challenger motorhome is not working, which means I have to manually operate the slideout. The owners manual does not give instructions on how to do this. Do you know how?
Charlie, Globe, Arizona
Manual operation of the slideout depends on which mechanism was installed in the slideout and what year the motorhome was manufactured. Some Challengers were equipped with Lippert mechanisms. Most slideouts have some type of manual override that is typically located at or near the drive motor. If you can learn which manufacturer produced the motor and drive mechanism, we’d be able to determine where the manual override is found.
In the meantime, gain access to the motor for the slideout. Some motors are equipped with a shaft that protrudes all the way through the motor (or the gearbox housing), with a hex fitting on the end. A wrench or a socket, adapter, and drill can be used to manually extend or retract the slideout. In other cases, the manual override is hidden behind a decal or sticker, so look closely. It’s there somewhere. Remember to release the locking pawl before trying to extend the slideout.
The key to finding the manual override is to gain access to all sides of the motor assembly. Knowing which mechanism Damon used on your coach would be very helpful. Perhaps a call to your dealer or the manufacturer would prove beneficial. In my opinion, the manual override should have been pointed out (and actually demonstrated) during your walk-through, if you bought the coach new from an experienced dealer.
Low Hot-Water Flow
Dear RV Doctor:
I have a Winnebago Adventurer. The hot water flow from the bathroom and kitchen faucets has decreased and is not nearly as strong as the cold water flow. Can you suggest where to start looking for the problem or be able to provide a solution?
Barbara Covard, F78926, Centuria, Wisconsin
There are a few things for you to check. First, how long has it been since the water heater has been flushed out? Chances are that mineral deposits have gathered at the bottom of the tank. Pieces of the minerals may have migrated out and into the hot water system, thereby impeding full flow to all hot faucets.
Also, your problem could be caused by a failed water heater bypass valve position, typically located at the rear of the heater. Verify that the bypass valve is in the right position. In some cases, the valve for the crossover section can remain partially open and allow an inordinate amount of cold water to be mixed in with the hot water coming from the heater while on its way to the hot faucets. Even though the valves may appear to be positioned correctly, they could be rendered faulty internally because of repeated exposure to heated water. An experienced service tech should be able to quickly diagnose this condition.
Another cause of mixing hot and cold water may be a neglected exterior faucet or showerhead. If the valves for both the hot and cold are left on and the flow was stopped by using the showerhead shutoff, this can tie the hot and cold lines together as well. Any faucets downstream of this exterior showerhead will experience diluted or warm water instead of hot. But it sounds like your issue revolves more around flow than temperature, right?
You also should check the aerators on your questionable faucet assemblies. Be sure they are free and clear of debris. Finally, look for kinks in the branch lines feeding the faucets. Water tubing that is kinked, crushed, or flattened even a little bit can lead to reduced flow and pressure.
No Electricity From Generator
Dear RV Doctor:
My Fleetwood Tioga is equipped with an Onan generator that runs fine but does not provide AC electric to the motorhome’s outlets. I’ve checked fuses and all are okay. I also reset the switch on the generator line and still it’s not connecting. Any suggestions?
Saul Barrera, Oak Forest, Illinois
It’s possible that you have a dedicated 30-amp receptacle located at or near the shore cord compartment on the side of the Tioga. If so, you’ll have to plug the shore cord into that receptacle in order to power the coach with AC electricity from the generator. In some cases, an automatic transfer switch manages this connection between shore power and generator power, but I’m thinking yours might be of the manual type, whereby the generator power terminates at that dedicated receptacle inside the motorhome. In other words, the shore cord must be plugged in somewhere — either at the campground pedestal or the dedicated generator receptacle in order to provide AC electric to the Tioga. Check to determine whether that’s how your coach is outfitted. If the switch you reset on the generator itself was the integral circuit breaker, it’s likely your problem is the shore cord and the dedicated receptacle. In addition, verify that the breakers on the generator are set properly.
Fresh Water Crimp Ring Removal
Dear RV Doctor:
What is the recommended procedure for removing the factory-crimped bands on the fresh water lines?
Larry Patten, Los Angeles, California
Normally, RV technicians use a hacksaw to carefully cut off water connection crimp rings. Due to space constraints, a grinding tool with a cutoff wheel or a multi-tool with an assortment of blades can be used. If a fitting is being removed or replaced, a new crimp ring must be installed. It takes a special crimping tool to install such fittings, depending on the type of tubing. If your tubing is the gray-colored polybutylene, you can find conversion fittings to make the transition to the newer PEX tubing found today. Some PEX connections also use a crimp ring. There are a couple of exceptions to the above, but it really is determined by the type of tubing you have now. But most assuredly you cannot simply install a standard hose clamp; the fitting must be crimped on. A standard screw-type hose clamp will not hold up to the pressures of the fresh water system, and you certainly wouldn’t want to blow a connection when hooked up to city water while you’re outside or away from the motorhome.
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