Hot Shower Problem Solved
I discovered that I wasn’t getting enough hot water out of the water heater for the kind of shower I like. Replacing the water heater seemed to be out of the question. Because the shower uses a single-hand ball-style faucet to control it, turning it off partway through the shower wasted a lot of water and created some discomfort when I went to readjust the temperature after turning it back on. Unfortunately, changing the showerhead would require moving the washer-dryer combination on the other side of the shower wall to access the plumbing — not a desirable task.
So, I came up with a solution that seems to work well. I put a small on-off valve between the supply end of the hand-held showerhead flex hose and the fixed piping and shower hose supply point. Now I can adjust the water to the temperature I want; get wet; shut off the water at the new valve; soap, scrub, and shampoo; and then turn the water back on to rinse off. This leaves plenty of hot water for me to enjoy.
Bill Gilmer, F378219
Lake Oswego, Oregon
RV Light Shields
Are you bothered by the glare from the dome lights and under-cabinet lights in your motorhome? Those bright lights drive me crazy when I’m watching TV or just sitting around. So I made light shields out of flexible, fire-resistant CPVC plastic for less than $5 each. They are similar to canister lights in that they shield the light source, eliminating the harsh glare.
I purchased a 24-inch-by-48-inch sheet of 1/32-inch-thick CPVC, which cost about $40, and some 3/4-inch-wide, 0.015-inch-thick 3M VHB double-sided adhesive foam tape. The project also required a tape measure, a sharp utility knife, a straight edge, and a cutting board (I used a 12-inch-by-36-inch plywood sheet).
To begin, remove the light cover and see how the fixture is fastened to the ceiling. It probably has two or four screws. Measure the distance around the base of the light and add approximately 2 inches to this number for the overlap on which the foam tape will be placed to hold the piece together. Cut the plastic to the desired circumference and then mark and cut the plastic for the desired height — approximately 5 to 7 inches, with an additional 1 inch for tabs that will be inserted into the fixture. Once the piece is cut, loosen the fixture screws and slide the tabs under the light base. Overlap the ends so that the adhesive tape holds the shield together and then retighten the fixture. Reinstall the light cover and the project is completed.
Edmund S. Kelley Iii, F266038