From Tallahassee To St. Marks

Tallahassee is a town steeped in tradition. Given a Muskogean Indian name meaning “old fields” or “old town,” in 1824 the settlement became the capital of what was then the Florida Territory.  Since then it has expanded to become a thriving college town as well, all while still managing to nurture its natural beauty.

A tour is best started at the Capitol Complex, which includes the original historic capitol and the new capitol. The older capitol has been restored to its 1902 appearance and harbors a museum that gives an in-depth look at the history of Florida’s government. The new capitol houses the current legislative branches; visitors can take self-guided tours Monday through Friday.

The capitols are intriguing, but it can be argued that Tallahassee is really known for being home to Florida State University. FSU boasts one of the most picturesque campuses in the United States and is perfect for sight-seeing. Follow the Legacy Walk, a specially designed tour of campus marked by banners and other signage guiding visitors past the red-brick architecture, sculptures, and green spaces. (At press time, the walk was undergoing renovations.) Be sure to stop at the Westcott Building, the oldest site of higher education in Florida. Even during the height of the academic term, you’re likely to find a stone bench on which to relax and contemplate the universe under giant oaks draped in swaying Spanish moss.

A short drive in any direction will lead to some of Tallahassee’s many parks and natural areas. Be sure to add to that drive at least one of the nine official canopy roads that ring the city. Canopy roads are lined on both sides with towering pines, sweet gums, and oaks that meet to create a leafy roof over vehicles below, including the largest motorhomes. The roads reflect the importance of trees to the citizens of Tallahassee. A sense of peace washes over anyone who is enveloped in their protective cover. To best explore the 78 miles of asphalt retreats, be sure to grab a map at www.visittallahassee.com/explore/self-guided-tours/canopy-roads.

Tallahassee boasts a wide range of outdoor spaces, from the 28 acres of blooms found in Alfred B. Maclay Gardens State Park to the historical wonders of Lake Jackson Mounds Archaeological State Park. If you have only a little time to play, choose the Tallahassee Museum. It’s a 52-acre open-air facility, with exhibits highlighting the history and wildlife of the area. A raised boardwalk leads through the Wildlife Florida trail, where you might see black bears, red foxes, and the very rare Florida panther. Tour an 1897 schoolhouse, and learn about the first organized African-American church in the state at the lovingly restored Bethlehem Missionary Baptist Church. Or just take a moment to gaze out at the waters of Lake Bradford, dotted with old-growth cypress trees and the fascinating “knees” that surround them.

If you travel with bicycles, or rent them occasionally, you’ll want to seriously consider continuing your tour down south by bike. The asphalt portion of the Tallahassee-St. Marks Historic Railroad State Trail stretches approximately 20 miles from Tallahassee to the tiny fishing community of St. Marks. On the way, you will pedal under mini canopy roads past ponds and picnic areas, and catch glimpses of the old train tracks that once shuttled cotton to the coast. The path is a great way to get off the road and see the area from a unique perspective. Bike the entire path, or just jump off and on it, as parking areas are dispersed along the trail. There is no cost to take the trail, and it is open all year. For information, including park/ride locations, visit www.floridastateparks.org/trail/Tallahassee-St-Marks. Bicycles can be rented at The Great Bicycle Shop, (850) 224-7461; www.greatbicycle.com.

Edward Ball Wakulla Springs State Park is about 16 miles from downtown Tallahassee and seems to be anchored in the days when Florida was every traveler’s tropical playground. The film Tarzan’s Secret Treasure was made here, as were many parts of Creature from the Black Lagoon. Looking into the depths of the springs, you can easily conjure up images of the Creature rising from the blackness.

Businessman Edward Ball became interested in these natural springs in the 1930s and set out to create an elegant retreat showcasing the quiet beauty of the area. Much to his credit, he strove to preserve the springs. His crowning achievement is the ornate Wakulla Springs Lodge, built in 1937. Even if you choose not to stay, the lodge is well worth a tour. Spanish and art-deco-style architectures combine to embrace visitors in a wash of stucco, tile, wrought iron, and wood, all capped off by an exquisitely painted ceiling. Walls are lined with movie posters and photographs from yesteryear, and you can even belly up to a soda fountain along what is said to be the world’s longest-known marble bar, a tad over 70 feet. The fountain offers delicious treats as well as traditional lunch-counter-style food.

The lodge is a man-made wonder, but the real draw of this retreat is one of the largest and deepest freshwater springs in the world. It’s just across the wide, luscious lawn behind the lodge’s sunroom. Under your feet, the Florida aquifer is made up of layers of porous limestone and caves that allow millions of gallons of spring water to pour into Wakulla. Take a moment when you’re standing in the lodge to ponder that below you sits a cave large enough to contain a lighthouse. Water pours from this cave, creating Wakulla Springs. The cave entrance is 165 feet below, under a limestone cliff, and is still being explored today. The bubbles rising from the depths could belong to a manatee or a cave diver.

If you take a dip in the water, don’t be surprised that these are not hot springs. The 70-degree water is a welcome relief from the Florida heat. A small swimming area is roped off from the main springs, and a diving platform stands at the edge egging you on to perform your best Johnny Weissmuller impression. Chest thumping is recommended but not required.

Much of the Wakulla River that flows from these springs is protected and not accessible to the public, so a true treat is a tour by glass-bottom boat or riverboat. The riverboat tour puts you in a slow-moving, open-air vessel at the mouth of the river as a ranger provides commentary. You may not see an 11-foot monster gator, but you will likely discover anhingas sunning themselves; roseate spoonbills perched high in the magnolia trees; and several (smaller) basking alligators. The fee is $6 to enter the state park and another $8 to take the boat tour. The park does not offer overnight camping.

Sixteen miles from Wakulla Springs lies the Gulf of Mexico and the birding paradise of St. Marks National Wildlife Refuge. Established in 1931, St. Marks is one of the oldest refuges in the National Wildlife Refuge System and covers more than 70,000 acres of natural salt marshes, tidal flats, pine forests, and wetlands. This diverse landscape provides inviting habitat for an astounding variety of birds, mammals, and plants, and entices nature lovers of the human kind as well.

St. Marks is made up of several areas that can be explored by foot, by driving, or by paddling along 43 miles of coastline. Start at the St. Marks Unit, where your first stop should be the visitors center. There you can learn about the flora and fauna of the refuge, pick up much-needed insect repellent and sunscreen, and even borrow a pair of binoculars. To get the full view of the refuge, pay the $5 fee and take the 7-mile drive down Lighthouse Road.

As you leave the heavy forests surrounding the visitors center, the land opens up to reveal seas of grasslands and tall, skinny trees with puffs of leaves on top, as if they’d been conjured from a Dr. Seuss book. Among all this is a series of pools where snowy egrets, American bitterns, and wood ducks make themselves available for a wealth of photo opportunities. The bird list at St. Marks is overwhelming, and contains royalty of the bird-watching world, such as whooping cranes, Eastern screech owls, and least terns.

The cool breeze of the Gulf begins to beckon as you near the end of the road, anchored by the St. Marks Lighthouse. The first version of this historical structure began guiding ships to safety in 1831. The current light acts as a landmark, directing those willing to explore this protected refuge to the sea. Several trails can be found along the road, from short nature walks to primitive hiking trails. As you leave the pavement you will notice that noise is constant in the refuge, but it’s not made by humans. Bull alligators bellow, birds call, and frogs croak.

As the sign marking the entrance of Wakulla Springs says, “Welcome to the Real Florida.”

106 E. Jefferson St.

Tallahassee, FL 32301

(800) 628-2866

(850) 606-2305

www.visittallahassee.com

1358 Old Woodville Road

Crawfordville, FL 32327

(850) 519-6594

www.floridastateparks.org/trail/Tallahassee-St-Marks

465 Wakulla Park Drive

Wakulla Springs, FL 32327

(850) 561-7276

www.floridastateparks.org/park/Wakulla-Springs

1255 Lighthouse Road

St. Marks, FL 32355

(850) 925-6121

www.fws.gov/refuge/st_marks

If you are making reservations during football season, keep in mind that Tallahassee fills up with fans during Florida State home football games. Plan ahead or stay in a different area. More listings may be available at FMCA.com’s RV Marketplace and in the January issue of FMC magazine.

4024 N. Monroe St.

Tallahassee, FL 32303

(850) 562-4660

6401 W. Tennessee St.

Tallahassee, FL 32304

(850) 574-5998

8046 Coastal Highway

St. Marks, FL 32355

(850) 926-7227 (county parks department)

(850) 925-4530 (campground host)

440 Shell Island Road

St. Marks, FL 32355

(850) 925-6226

6504 Mahan Drive

Tallahassee, FL 32308

(850) 878-7641